I have owned a Grizzly G0555 bandsaw for about seven years. It has a riser
block and uses 105" blades.
I have not been able to get the saw blades to track properly since I bought
the saw. The only way I can get the blade centered on the upper wheel is if
I tighten the tracking adjustment as far in as it will go. However, the
blade seems to ride right on the front edge of the lower wheel no matter
what I do.
I spent time last week trying to make sure the two wheels were coplaner. I
had to shim the lower wheel out about 1/4 inch. But I was concerned about
the lower wheel hanging off the shaft that far, so I removed one of the
spacers so it's only shimmed out 1/8" now.
It seemed like it was tracking better till I put a new blade on this week.
Now it wants to track on the front edge of BOTH wheels? I have the upper
support bearing behind the blade adjusted as far forward as it will go and
it's still 1/4" behind the blade.
I even tried to loosen the bolt going through the riser block to see if I
could shift things, but it has pins that keep it from moving.
What am I doing wrong?
Hard to say. Is this with one particular blade or all? If one, what
Are the tires crowned (either natively or by conforming to a crown in the
wheels) or flat?
Here's some discussion on the subject, including your particular saw. Not
a lot of help but peraps it will give you some ideas.
It seems to occur with all blades, though I'm only on my third blade.
I mainly bought the saw for resawing, but I don't use it that often
because I can never get it set up right. The drift seems to change over
time and I have a lot of problems with bowed cuts. Changing the blade
tension doesn't seem to have any effect on the bowing. The saw also seems
to make a lot of weird noises in use. I don't know if it's bearings, the
blade slipping on the belt, or what. If I take the blade off and run the
motor it sounds quiet.
Until recently I only used 1/2" blades, about 3-4 teeth per inch. I just
bought a 3/8" blade for green wood but it tracks the same way, maybe
I haven't checked, but I believe the tires are crowned.
Thanks, I'll take a look.
Does the blade eventually move to the wrong position of right away? If
the blade gets warm it stretches. When it stretches it tracks differently.
I had this problem with my previous band saws and eventually bit the
bullet and bought a HD Laguna and tracking problems are a thing of the past.
It tracks on the wheels that way from the moment I install the blade. It
doesn't seem to change as I cut with it. It seems so close to the edge of
the lower wheel that I am sometimes worried it will come off the wheel (it
Unfortunately, a new saw will not be in my budget for a while.
Can you freehand a straight cut without bowing? If so, I'd say your fence
needs to be adjusted for the blade's drift.
I do very little resawing but when I do I use a pivot block rather than a
fencel less worry about drift and easy to compensate should it rear its
I'd want to find out the source. My cheapo 14" one makes a bunch of noise
too, sounds - and shakes - like a freight train coming through. I suspect
things would quiet down if I sprang for a link belt.
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in
Yeah, I think I'd second that suggestion. Beyond that, if
the riser block is symmetric, I'd try turning it around 180
degrees and see if that changes anything.
I'd also suggest making sure the surfaces of the block, and
the saw that it sits on, are clean, without anything trapped
in the joint.
If all that is good, I might try taking the shims out from
the lower wheel, and putting a very thin shim under the front
of the riser block (to tilt the top wheel back a little,
since it sounds like it's forward with respect to the lower
In 2010 I bought a Grizzly G0555X and riser block and had the same issues with
blade alignment as you.
It turned out that, just as John McCoy mentioned, to be the riser block was
installed 180 deg off.
Look at your riser, it should have an 'up arrow' on the BACK of the casting (the
motor side). If the up arrow is on the front side, it's backwards and needs to
be rotated 180 deg.
This picture shows the front side of the riser
followed the instructions, but the up arrow is on the back side. I have
a woodslicer 1/2" resaw blade and it tracks and runs sweet. Also got a
3/8" blade from Highland. I did have to make a big adjustment on the
tension for the 105" blade vs the 93-1/2" blade because of the 1/2"
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
I had to remove one of the pins on my Delta 14" w/riser block. It would
not align until I did.
Some don't believe in coplanar. I do.
Make sure your tire has a crown in it. If not, the blade will not try to
ride on it.
Other than that, I don't know without seeing it.
Adjusting the tracking knob moves the blade forward and backward on the
upper wheel, but the blade stays in the same spot on the lower wheel. It
rides right at the front edge of the lower wheel.
Here is the link to the installation manual for the riser kit.
While there's no mention of front or back, Figure 4 is a front view of the saw
w/riser, the 2 threaded holes are clearly visible.
Apologies if it has been asked and answered, I have sort of lost track,
but is there a washer/shim on the top axle that could be removed to move
the top wheel further back?
Also, are the wheels coplanar? And parallel horizontally? If either is
"no', that would be my first step.
Unfortunately, no. I did pick up some machine shim washers and shimmed out
the bottom wheel. That seemed to make everything coplaner, with proper
tracking, until I changed blades. Now the blade is riding the front edge of
the lower wheel again.
I tried to get the wheels coplaner last week, but am going to check again
when I get the chance. Unfortunately, I may not be out in the shop for a
week or two.
I forgot who asked, but I checked my riser block today and it is installed
correctly (not backwards as suggested).
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