Has anyone got any tips on correcting the tracking on my new bandsaw.
What happens is the blade runs to the front of the wheel tyre and
stays there. With a 1/4 inch blade my guide don't reach that far. I've
checked the wheels and they are co-planar. Been head scratching for
the last 3 or 4 evenings with this and its really getting to me now.
It's my first bandsaw and didn't foresee these setup problems. By the
way it's a Scheppach Basato 3. Please help anyone !!!
Thanks for the reply Ed, but the wheels are set correctely. The blade
still runs to the font of the tyres. I tilted the table to 45 degrees
and ran a straight edge across the wheels, they line up perfectly.
Are you checking for co-planar when the blade is at correct tension?
The wheels tilt somewhat between untensioned and tensioned situations.
Generally, you apply the width of blade that you will most commonly use,
tension it up correctly, then check for co-planar.
That is how I have always done it, and never had a problem.
There may also be the possibility that one of your bandsaw wheels in 'out of
round' or not entirely flat itself - it it has a wobble. You can check this
by removing the blade and spinning the top wheel by hand rapidly. The bottom
can be checked with power on (no blade). Take necessary safety precautions
Mark Duginske's bandsaw handbook is a great resource for all this setup
information, which is where most of the above suggestions came from :-)
A review of his book can be found here:
Hope that helps!
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Having wheels co-planar is just the starting point for getting the blade
to track correctly. The will be an adjustment on your saw that will tilt
one of the wheels (usually the upper wheel) in or out to adjust the
trackability of the blade. Like another poster pointed out, you can
adjust this while turning the wheel by hand AFTER the blade has been
tensioned. If your tires are in good shape, then you should be able to
track the blade to the middle of the crown. And like the other poster
said, there should be a looking mechanism (such as a jam nut or wing
nut) that will keep the tracking where it is after adjustment.
I agree with Edwin -- forget the "co-planer" bit, and all that junk and
adjust the adjust the wheel angle from the back side to run the blade
where you want it to run!! The wheels may need to be a bit off to make
it run correctly. If they are not "co-planer", so be it!! It's results
that count -- not procedure!!
Okay guys got an update. After spending all evening again trying to
setup the bandsaw I had some sucess. The best result I can get is on
the top wheel the 1/2 " blade is running slightly back off center,
while on the bottom wheel the blade is running to the front with the
tips of the blade teeth very slightly off the tyre. The blade stays in
this position all the time. Now my question is Is this setup
acceptable? or should I go back to where I bought it and demand a
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:07:56 +0100, Neil Cummins
First, I assume you mean centering the body of the blade, less the teeth.
Next, the simple book coplanar test is not enough. Mine originally checked
"coplanar" by the book and had the same results with a wide blade as you
Basically, the two wheels have to be aligned in all 3 dimensions. If one
dimension is out, your blade won't be square to the table, so that's easy. If
you examine the upper wheel adjustment, it handles another dimension. However,
that leaves one left.
For instance, if the upper frame has a twist relative to the lower, the two
wheels can be adjusted coplanar at one point, but only at that point. With the
blade under running tension, carefully check both the front and rear portions
of the two wheels. In my case I had to remove a pin from the riser, and rotate
the upper body.
Before any of this, however, try it with another blade. A defective blade can
cause this issue, and the wider the blade, the more the issue.
As to your current setup being acceptable: the main question is if it is
stable when cutting and with thinner blades. Teeth slightly off the tire are
okay, if they are not cutting it. I originally ran mine that way for awhile,
and just had to keep adjusting the wheel for different blades, until I had
time to fix it. On the other hand, it shouldn't happen with a new saw.
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 21:52:45 +0100, Neil Cummins
On Thu, 02 Sep 2004 08:32:31 GMT, "Greg Millen"
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Important point actually, and easy to forget when you are re-tracking.
In other words back _everything_ right off except the tension when
setting up traction.
the snappy ones are the best
The tires on fourteen inch bandsaws like Delta are no longer crowned
and they say it isn't necessary. I like them crowned and recently
installed a tire on a wheel, chucked it up in a large metal lathe and
crowned it with 90 grit sandpaper. I thought it worked better.
Call me at 303.428.4196 for your solutions.
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