Granite table top advice

[Swingman]

SWMBO has a 41" X 19" x 3/4" slab of granite cluttering up my shop. Although it is nicely beveled on all four sides, it has two rounded corners with a radius of about 3" (front), and two slightly rounded corners (back), which means it will have to sit against a wall ... no problem thus far, because that is SWMBO's intended use/placement.

She wants incorporate this granite as the top to a Mission style, 30" tall table, leaving about an 1 1/2" overhang all around ... still no problem, as I've turned out no fewer than 4 similar sized/styled tables this year alone.

Elegantly fastening the granite top to the table is, however, something I am looking for ideas on.

I have used plywood substrate and appropriate glue on granite kitchen cabinet counter tops, however, I don't relish, stylistically, having the additional height of a substrate (probably with banded edges if used), PLUS the granite on the table.

One solution would be to inset a plywood substrate into rabbets in the tops of the aprons (and legs), then glue the granite top to it. That way the granite would sit on top of the legs and apron, as would a wood top.

That said, I am actively seeking other ideas/experiences.

Many thanks in advance.

[Nova]

How about gluing cleats to the bottom of the granite and then screwing the cleats to the apron.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[Andy Dingley]

Drill holes from underneath (SDS drill will do it pretty easily) and use polyester resin glue-in fixings. These are easily available from better hardware merchants.

You now have a wide range of options for whether you have studs pointing down, or some form of bracket with holes in. The weight of granite should be adequate to hold it down to a wooden frame, so you're just trying to stop it being lifted up.

For a traditionalist approach, use slightly dovetailed iron rag bolts (squishy end) in drilled holes, and fix them in place with either molten sulphur or molten lead.

-- What ? Me ? Evil Dictator of Iraq ? Nah mate, I'm just a Hobbit, honest

[Lawrence A. Ramsey]

[Tom Watson]

Andy, that made me laugh out loud. Thank you.

Regards, Tom Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania 19428

[George M. Kazaka]

Sounds to me like you solved your problem

[Mike Hide]

How about a "rabbit" on the inside of the top of the apron just a "hare" deeper than the granite seated of either silicone caulk or liquid nails...........mjh

[Swingman]

At this point I'll probably go with Jack and Lawrence's suggestion re: using cleats glued to the granite.

I wasn't sure whether using adhesive on cleats would provide enough of a surface area bond to hold the top in place over the long haul, but, as Andy pointed out, the top is heavy enough to stay in place, and it shouldn't take much to keep it from shifting. I hate to take the chance on drilling the granite and having it break ... sleeping with the client has its advantages, but may not survive that.

Thanks for the replies and suggestion. Now that I've got the out of the way, it's full steam ahead on the table ...SWMBO and I are headed for the lumber yard this morning to find some thicker stock for legs that will suit her design.

I am looking forward to mixing wood and stone in this project, as well as to getting that piece of granite out of my way in the shop.

Thanks again!

Last update: 9/21/03

[Greg]

Most granite counter tops in kitchens are simply glued to the top edge of the

1/2" MDF with a bead of RTV.

[Charles Spitzer]

vhb tape. available from

on page 3175

you'll have trouble getting it off if you use this.

[Clif]

One other suggestion, use silicone caulk, the aquarium stuff does wonderfully as an adjunct to the cleats. Once applied and cured, the top WILL NOT move on its own, or by being shoved around.

CLif

[Mark Jerde]

Be careful moving it. I broke the corner of a piece I had. :-(

-- Mark

[Swingman]

The damn granite is SWMBO's, not mine, and has been leaning against the wall behind my miter saw for almost three years ... it would be par for the course for me to break it now.

I took it out yesterday, laid it on a piece of contractor's paper and traced the outline so I could use the paper as a template for measuring, etc, then I put it back, all within view of SWMBO. No fear ... I am not going to so much as touch it unless she's there.

Although I am a wee bit concerned about the 'support' surface area for the granite if using the cleat idea, the nice thing about not using a full blown substrate to glue it to is that if it does break at some point I can just build a wooden top and still have a nice table.

[Silvan]

Forget all that table stuff. Use it as a honking big Scarey Sharp(tm) sharpening station. :)

[Mark Jerde]

I was holding it flat horizontally by two corners moving it around in my car. One of the corners broke off. So be careful to support it while you're moving it. Also, without support across the middle setting a coffee cup on it could, um, start a conversation...

-- Mark

[Mike Hide]

And you think thats going to work ! you have to be joking . Even if if gets hit by a bloody meteorite it still is going to be your fault for putting it where you did .....:)

-- mike hide

[Nova]

And they say men don't understand women?

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[Swingman]

LOL ... You're right about that!

[Swingman]

Damn howdy! ... I could spray glue ALL the grits to one flat surface! .... Come here, babe ... we need to talk.

[Silvan]

Full sheets too. Full *packs* of sheets. You could go months or years before having to change anything.

I'm thinking about doing the same with an old octagonal glass table I have stashed somewhere. If I could just figure out a way to keep it out of the way... :)