First Look at the WorkSharp Machine

I'm a sucker for gadgets so I had to try one. It arrived yesterday and I set it up this AM before work and gave it a few runs. Comments:
1. It's small, doesn't need much room to use or store.
2. Set up is a piece of cake, except for getting the backing off the abrasive disks. As usual, getting a piece to turn up so it could be grabbed was fiddly.
3. Keeping the abrasive (especially the 3600 mesh) from getting air bubbles as you put it on the glass is tricky, but, with care, can be done.
4. Once set up I ran an old Stanley 604 blade. This blade came on a yard sale grabber and had been used as every tool in the box from appearances. Back battered, edge rouned and chipped - ugly. The basic bevel seemed to be around 30 degrees. I knocked that back to 25 on the 120 grit, which took a while. Smoothed it on up through 3600 grit. It looks good and cuts nicely. The deburring abrasive on the tool really doesn't do it. I knocked the burr off as I went with the top face of the platter when it had a higher grit on top. Total time to get a working edge on a battered iron, about 30 minutes.
5. Edge was nice and square on the iron, something I have difficulty getting on a waterstone. My poor technique I suspect.
6. Ran 4 old C'man chisels (1/4 to 1"). All have been previously sharpened on Shapton waterstones. About 4 minutes apiece to 3600 and the edges were about what I get manually, without the mess.
Upsides -
It's a neat little machine. Quiet, clean, no water mess and seems to do a pretty good job on the flat stuff. I'm not a turner so I can't comment on gouges etc.
Looking at it, it'll be easy to fashion a jig or 2 to do knives. Planer blades and jointer blades will take more work at jigging.
Down sides -
Max 2" blade in the supplied rest, so my 4 1/2, 6 and 8 planes aren't possible except on the tool rest, which won't be real accurate. Need a jig here.
Abrasives aren't cheap (Norton on the grits and some outfit I've never heard of on the mesh). I suspect I can do better with a search or 2 when needed.
The de-burring strip doesn't do much, do it manually.
Micro bevels are only done on 5 degree increments on the provided rest. I suspect a strip of masking tape on the back of the tool up by the edge could be used to provide a 1 or 2 degree micro bevel.
Just my observations.
I'm not ready to put my LN, Hock and Knight irons or my Veritas detail chisels on it yet - more experiments and experience required.
Regards.
Tom
PS: The Laguna 16HD is on the truck! Yeh!
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Tools for Working Wood has/had regular rectangle sized PSA backed 3M sandpaper and micro film available. Works fine on the spinning platter sharpening systems like this one and the Lee Valley. And you get some odd shapes as cutoffs to use for various things. Obviously you have to trim the paper to fit the platter after sticking it on. More abrasive grits and some even finer than available from Lee Valley for its sharpener in round 8" size. Lee Valley also sells PSA 3M sandpaper in rectangles but not as many or as fine a grit as Tools for Working Wood.

Your high priced irons will likely be a lot sharper after you put them on the spinning platter device. The amont of time/feet you spend honing on the super fine platters goes far beyond any honing you can do manually on an 8000 grit stone.

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