Finishing question

Shouldn't be an issue for a decent urethane.

Reply to
J. Clarke
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I can deal with a week of smell, I did the recommended burn cycle on the new stove, the factory smell still comes out when I turn it on.

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much safer anyway.

Reply to
FrozenNorth

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

While it is true that shellac with wax in it will water spot easily, dewaxed shellac, if let dry for a few days, will not. I have tried to water spot it and failed. Drops of water left on it overnight, a sweating glass, an icecube allowed to melt, nothing caused water spotting. With our hard water some of them left mineral spots, but those wiped right off. Try it yourself - you'll be surprised.

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that. Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

It is a kitchen, after all. It will be cleaned. The best cleaners are really nasty stuff.

I had an article from years ago about that best kitchen cleaners (germane to my finishing business one would think I would have kept it) and how they affected the surfaces they cleaned.

When I "final clean" my jobs, I am a big proponent of 409 since it will cut oil, grease, and even take off pencil marks.

The report I had tested the cleaners to see how deep they cleaned and if they damaged surfaces. In their testing, they found 409 to be quite effective, but quite destructive. It ate off all manner of kitchen cabinet finishes, took off paint, and even etched metal.

When I pick a finish for an item, I always think of what I could put on it to make it look the best, wear the best, and what will keep me out of warranty work.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

vinegar is mostly water.

Reply to
chaniarts

I built one from some old growth redwood over a decade ago. Finished it with Howard's Feed-n-wax. Still looking good and has held up just fine (balsamic, bowl for sea/kosher salt, salt and pepper grinders).

Mounted on the wall, about 8" above the control panel top with two keyhole slots.

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Actually, I'm only half joking. As our resident epoxy expert, do you know of a fairly bullet proof epoxy or similar finish?

-------------------------------------- There is an absolutely "bullet proof" finishing system as follows:

High build epoxy primer (4-6 mils/pass) followed by linear polyurethane.

Basic yacht finish.

Two (2) problems.

Both the primer and the LP finish are pigmented resins. (Clear LP is available but you still need a primer.

Cost:

Going rate for high build epoxy primer is about $100/gal & linear polyurethane is about $200/gal.

Be a lot less costly to have a fab shop bend up a piece of 316L S/S.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

If your polyurethane is giving you a "cloudy, yellow finish with a Saran wrap feel" perhaps you should not let the cat pee in the can next time.

Reply to
J. Clarke

"FrozenNorth" wrote

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a thing. But don't let me stop you.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it to the heat and vapor

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

Reply to
Jim Weisgram

For most varnishes, except polyurinestain, that's true. Do a quick scuff to give it tooth, dewax it with mineral spirits (taking no chances that it got a squirt of Pledge), then rub on another coat.

I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product.

If Watco stained with water rings, it was from too few coats. It's not as sturdy, as you state, though. Other products are better.

-- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo

Reply to
Larry Jaques

The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

Reply to
FrozenNorth

No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't. Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season their Mammoth.

Reply to
Rich

Corian, all colours

1/4" =96 3/4" (6 mm=9619 mm) (All colors) FLAME SPREAD INDEX (FSI)
Reply to
Robatoy

I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer or totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot pots and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd not have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that killed them.

-- The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings. -- Okakura Kakuzo

Reply to
Larry Jaques

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Okakura Kakuzo

I know for a fact that not all cavemen died.

Reply to
Robatoy

T&T have 3 different products. Not sure which one you're referring to. I meant the oil/varnish mix. Sounds like you may have mean the oil/ beeswax mix.

I got started using T&T on bowls and such because it's non-toxic. It worked so well I started using it elsewhere. But shellac is still my favorite finish.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

No gas in the house, I am in Canada, I am lucky to have electricity, I use whale and seal blubber for heat.

I am not in the banana belt. :-)

Reply to
FrozenNorth

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