Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil, regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic acid affects it.
Luigi
No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of the stove.
Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands onto a heat source? . . . Me neither.
Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and alcohol. Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any other film finish.
But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is probably easier to find. That way the shelf is easily refinished.
Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.
This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it significantly.
Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.
Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.
FrozenNorth
Electric.
It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.
I'll add, it is only about 4 inches deep, we use wine bottles for small amount of the oils and vinegars, it will give plenty of clearance for the burners.
---------------------------------------- IMHO, any shelf in that location is a disaster waiting to happen, especially with flammable items placed on it.
No matter what finish you choose the shelf is going to be a grease collector and any finish you choose is going to get tacky and not survive.
Lew
Stainless steel. Matching the cabinets won't be much of an issue when it's on fire. Put the oils somewhere else, too. The vinegar and salt might at least help to put the fire out...
Not even epoxy? :-)
Actually, I'm only half joking. As our resident epoxy expert, do you know of a fairly bullet proof epoxy or similar finish?
Luigi
Oil won't harm shellac. Can't French polish without it.
Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second, polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a Saran wrap feel.
Poly. With a piece of clear acrylic on top so you can take it off for washing.
I've had varnish on bookshelves get sticky on me. Rockhard and Waterlox are both tung oil and phenolic resin based and work better than most. Waterlox has products for shiny, medium, and nice, matte finishes. It's quick to apply, quick to dry, and has a very nice hand. Just Do It!
-- Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises. -- Demosthenes
Actually Shellac stands up better than you think. Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.
I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.
So go for it.
Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.
As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. Sure, you can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this accessory.
But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s woodworking fog) shines at its best.
For commonly found finishes available over the counter:
No finish is more cleanable. No finish is more resistant to chemicals. No finish is more abrasion resistant. No finish is easier to apply. For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if needed.
You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.
Spot on there, Sonoma.
Robert
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