Fastener for 5/8 MDF baseboard

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Tom
Thanks for your input. I also found this website
http://www.burton-mouldings.com/main.htm?install.htm
which has this to say about dimples.
"Nailing: Best results are obtained using 18 gauge pneumatic T-nails. Air pressure should be 90-110 psi. If a rim or lip of raised material is created around the nail hole (volcano effect), remove the driver from the nail gun and remove any burrs on the tip using a fine metal file. The rim is caused by burrs on the nail gun driver pulling material out of the nail hole as the driver retracts."
Thought you might find it interesting.
Yc Toronto

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I just installed a bunch of MDF base ans trim. For baseboard you will need a 15 or 16 guage nailer. The 18 guage does not have enough holding power. I have both 18 and 16 guage nailers, and rarely use the 18 guage nailer. Use the longest nails that fir the gun, two inch minimum when nailing through base, drywall, and into studs. Longer will be better yet, but 2 inch will do the job fine. The MDF will raise up a bit when nailed, figure on sanding and finish painting after installation. If you use the niler for door trim nailing into wood you can get by with shorter nails, seems to me I used 1-1/2 inch when nailing the trim into the door frame, and back to 2 inch when nailing into the wall. Greg
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Hi again
Thanks for all the replies.
Something unusual about my situation. The house is built late 50's. The "drywall" starts above the floor plate. Where I have removed the old baseboards (on internal walls on first and second floors), I can clearly see what I think is the edge of the floor plate. Solid wood about 1 3/4 inches thick above the subfloor.
(New and old baseboards are 2.5 inches high. I don't think I need to nail into the drywall above the floor plate to hold the baseboards to the wall.)
Based on what I think I am hearing so far, with 5/8 baseboard plus 3/4 to 1 inch bite, I need 1 3/8 to 1 5/8 inch nails. That rules out some of the lower end brad nailers. Some 18G brad nailers do go up to 2 inch but I've heard those brads sometimes bend going in. And since I don't intend to use glue, I will need all the holding power I can get.
So, it will be 16G finish nailer with 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inch nails. Probably will rent a Stanley Bostitch from HD to try.
Thanks all.
Yc Toronto.
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I'm just wondering why no one has mentioned trim screws? You know, with the No. 0 square drive heads.
UA100, who I guess just mentioned trim screws with the No. 0 square drive heads...
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Yes, I did think of trim screws. But I think that unless I predrill and countersink, the dimple/volcano would be huge and require a bit of sanding to remove. If I have to do it manually, I think I would just use a hammer.
Yc Toronto

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Yc wrote:

Ditto what you said but I'd keep a handful on hand just incase the Nancy nails won't cut it.
By the way, in old wooddorking machinery restoration the dimple/volcano is referred to as a Vesuvius. A Vesuvius or two can sometimes be quite helpful for parts requiring a press fit.
UA100
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