I have to use 3/8 sheetrock for my kitchen ceiling to match an
adjacent dining room ceiling. I was ready to install some Hi-Hats in
my ceiling, but the brackets are designed to go under the ceiling
joists, leaving the depth of the hi-hat for 1/2" sheetrock. This
obviously will not work for me, so does anyone have any suggestions
how to modify the bracket to accomodate 3/8 sheetrock? I was thinking
install the hi-hat first, then bang the bracket upwards a few times to
get the 3/8 depth I need, but maybe theres a better way to go about it.
I am not sure what model of light and trim you have. I would take
a scrap piece of rock and loose set the light, even screw the rock
to some scrap lumber to duplicate the installed position. Snap on
the trim. I think you will find that the trim is well able to
conceal the 1/8" discrepancy.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
3/8" gyp board for a ceiling is begging for a saggy ceiling. Use 1/2"
and just feather the discrepancy with some mud. An 1/8" difference
will totally disappear if you feather it out 16" or more. If there is
molding around the edge of the ceiling you might have to feather it
out a bit more.
on 9/30/2007 11:22 AM beecrofter said the following:
Never installed a high hat? The joists have nothing to do with it. He's
between the joists. The high hat is held by clamps that grab the
sheetrock. His clamps are for a 1/2" thick sheetrock, but he has 3/8"
sheetrock. He needs a 1/8 spacer sheet.
I think your talking about the old work hi-hats for existing ceilings,
in which the tabs grab on to the sheetrock. I actually gutted my whole
kitchen, so the hi-hats I'm using are for new construction and are
held between the wood joists.
In any event, I did try one hi-hat up between the joists. Then I
carefully put my hands on the entire assembly and pushed upward
slightly. That did the trick, all I needed was an 1/8".
Like some suggested, I could have cut off the tab piece, or mortise
out the bottom of the joists, but I got 8 hi-hats to install
and it was just more easier what i did.
With regards to using the 3/8 sheetrock on the ceiling, this is my
opinion. Before I gutted my kitchen, I had the original 3/8 sheetrock
on the ceiling and even after a roof leak that went undetected for a
while, it never sagged. I could understand if every ceiling in my
house sagged, I would be reluctant to use it again, but to be honest,
my ceilings and walls look great. So this is why I decided to stick
with 3/8". Not because it's cheaper or lighter. It just made sense to
match the existing work. If I did a complete gut of the entire 1st
floor, that would be a different story.
By the way, I am putting in a vented range hood that helps out the
Unfortunately Halo uses a fixed 1/2" ring, unlike Lightolier which uses a
flat ring. Screw the frame in place and lock the leg screw, I'd also tightly
tape the leg overlaps together, then with the butt of the hammer, gently
punch the entire frame up slightly. As the trims of standard halo fixtures
use coil springs pulling downward on the frame, it would be a good idea to
stick a few shims in the gap you will have between the sheetrock and the
I am using the H7ICAT (air tight). Unfortunately its not that easy to
use 1/2" rock and feather it out. It's in a very visible location and
I want it to look good. I had 3/8 there before for 40+ years and I had
no problems, so I don't see why I would have a problem now.
I'll try the hammer trick and see how that works.
Some codes prohibit 3/8" gypsum board on ceilings or limit its
application. USG and the Gypsum Association do not recommend anything
less than 1/2" gypsum board on ceilings that will receive a water-
based finish - that means latex paint - and that is predicated on the
1/2" board running perpendicular to the framing. A kitchen produces a
fair amount of moisture and that is also a contributing factor to
You can feather out anything. 1/8" is a minimal discrepancy and a
suitably feathered joint would be totally invisible to even a trained
BTW, it's probably wise to lose the "that's how they did it 40+ years
ago" with respect to materials. Things change.
Cut that little tab part off that goes under the ceiling joist, but leave
the nail-on section in tact. That way you can raise the bracket up a
little. Tin snips or aviation snips should do the trick. I like to use BX
cutting pliers for situations like this.
on 9/30/2007 10:23 AM Mikepier said the following:
Get a 1/8" sheet of anything solid. If you have access to the top of the
ceiling, cut a hole in the piece equal to the size of the high hat hole
and glue it to the top of the sheetrock. If you can't get to the top of
the ceiling make the same piece but cut it in half in order to get it
into the sheetrock hole and glue the two pieced there to make up the
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