exploding MDF

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Larry Jaques wrote:

Okay as far as damaging the poly but I was more concerned that the Rain-X would do nothing to remove the smaller scratches you referenced. I took a look at the Rain-X bottle I have and this not billed as a cleaner but rather a topping after you have the windshield scrupuously cleaned with other chemicals, etc. To remove the scratches there should be some microabrasive component to the Rain-X, no?
Also the ingredients are two kinds of alcohol and siloxyate (Sp?) Could this be a dreaded silicone act alike? It's a stretch but should any product with silicones even be in the shop? That shit is so persistent you never can get rid of it.

Haven't found the can yet, but haven't spent much time digging yet - nor have you seen my garage and shop area<g>
What I did do is search on the product using Google and came up empty. Could be that even if it does work, if you don't already have a can you're out of luck. Still looking though<g>
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 03:20:31 GMT, Unquestionably Confused

No, they do it the other way - there's a gap-filling aspect to it that will infill the finer scratches and make them disappear optically, rather than physically.

Yes. I'd never let Rain-X anywhere near the workshop.
I'd also not use it on my car. I did use it once, and it worked pretty well. Then it started to wear and the streaking was _awful_. Once you've used it once, you really have to keep up using it. You can't stop, and you can't clean it off.
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After you apply it, give it 30 min. to cure and then wipe gently with pure ethanol. No more streaking. BTW, for those who have to scrape frost from their windows on a regular basis, rain-x is brilliant.
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 03:20:31 GMT, the inscrutable Unquestionably

Not necessarily. The film portion (left after wiping) fills in the scratches so they pass instead of reflecting light. I was amazed at how good my 14 year old windshield looked after the first application. And I love the dance raindrops do on a freshly Rain-Xed windshield. I'm on my 3rd bottle, and have bought the large size since finishing the small one years ago. Good schtuff, Maynard.

I believe it's an acrylic polymer coating, a plastic, with none of those silly cones. That said, I'd use the pair of nitrile gloves I keep with the Rain-X to buff the face shield.
The painter I used to work with used naphtha to remove any trace of silicone from the cars before he painted them. You're probably thinking ArmorAll, the bane of all it touches. The wash kid" at work had it all over him, and he almost killed me once after he ArmorAlled the steering wheel, gas and brake pedals in a car I had to test drive. I got to the bottom of the driveway and my foot slipped right off the brake pedal as I slid sideways into the street. Luckily no trucks were coming by at the time. I just love that ArmorAll sh*t. The kid was using ArmorAll right next to the paint shop one day and Dennis nearly killed the guy when he saw that the job he'd just prepped and sprayed was ruined by it. Dennis was the guy who knew his paint gun so well that he could lay metalflake on metalflake and stand the flake at just the right angle to match perfectly in full sunlight. He was a true artist with a perfect eye for color, too.

That's my current task in the shop: Finding countertops, benchtops, and the bloody _floor_.

I found Davies Klear-to-Land, Plexus, Myles Supercoat, Diamondite, 303, LP Aero Plastics 210, and AeroShell Plexicoat, but no "Slipstream".
--
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than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
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It's full of silicone oligomers. Best to keep it away from the wood.
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 18:17:01 GMT, the inscrutable snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (Ken Muldrew) spake:

I would even if it had no silicone. Where did you find a chemical breakdown for it? The msds had nothing but water, ethanols, and a surfactant.
--
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than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
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wrote: <snip>

larry.. I used rain-ex anti fog on the inside of a face shield..
good news: It worked great and never fogged...
bad news: the smell of the stuff never went away and I couldn't stand wearing the sucker..
mac
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On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 09:15:09 -0700, the inscrutable mac davis

What do they use in it, buffalo snot?
--
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than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Hell, shaving cream would have the same effect. It will keep the mirrors in the bathroom fog-free. Downside is that it would probably negate the effect of any anti-static spray. Sometimes, you just can't win.
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wrote:

dunno, that might be better than that perfume/chemical smell..
BTW, the fog-x is great for bathroom mirrors, except that at my age, you WANT them fogged up when you get out of the shower..
mac
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On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 08:22:59 -0700, mac davis

You need one of these http://www.livejournal.com/users/quercus/84634.html#cutid1
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Andy Dingley wrote:

Hmmm
Maybe a group order would be in order.
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
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On Thu, 14 Apr 2005 06:17:39 -0700, Larry Jaques

I have used Pledge spray furniture polish to deal with fine scratches in face shields and polycarbonate glasses. It works well for that, but I can't say that I've really observed what it does as far as static cling is concerned.
-- "We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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snipped-for-privacy@mac-dot-com.no-spam.invalid (chipGeek) wrote:

Wipe the inside and outside with a USED fabric softner dryer sheet.
Stuart Johnson Red Oak, Texas
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