I've been thinking about building some speakers and I have a few
questions. The plans call for using MDF up to 1.5" thick.
What is the best type of glue to use with MDF?
I will be using a router to flush trim some pieces. Am I better of
with a spiral bit or straight cutting?
Should I veneer before or after assembly?
If I veneer after assembly and need to trim the veneer, is there a
preference for type of bit?
I have never had any problems using Titebond 2 for any speakers I have built
with MDF (including 1.5" t material) I have always tended to put veneer on
afterwards as I genereally tend to screw something up prior to veneering.
:-) This also gives you a chance to listen to the speakers prior to putting
on some expensive veneers, only to find out that they sound/measure
terribly, and you have to haul them to the dump or make mitre saw stands out
of them. I have always used a straight cut bit with no problems. As far as
preference for type of bit, well that depends on the finished look you are
trying to achieve.
Good luck & happy listening,
I am building a project in MDF. I had to face glue a two large 3/4" and a
1/2" pieces together. I used Tightbond II and screws. As for a router bit, a
straight cutting bit is fine. Using a saw and especially a router on MDF
throws up a TON of dust. I set up my work on some saw horses outside to do
the routing and I wore a face mask (respirator) even though it was outside.
In many MDF boards, the resin used to hold the particles together contains
formaldehyde which is considered a probable human carcinogen so either wait
for a big wind or wear a respirator with a filter suitable for this kind of
material. I would opt for the respirator.
On 25 Oct 2004 08:36:21 -0700, email@example.com (Wyatt Wright)
Almost anything - it's not fussy.
My MDF work is generally biscuited, so I use cheap white PVA in a
roller bottle for the edges, and the same stuff thinned down a bit in
a biscuit-nozzle bottle for the biscuit slots.
PVA isn't particularly price-sensitive, but it doesn't like excess
storage. New cheap stuff by the gallon is better than uber-PVA that
spent the last winter out in the garage.
Spiral is better, but not better enough to be worth the extra expense.
Look at kitchen fitter's extra-long trimming bits. You'll be wanting
an nice heavy and stable router if you're joint 1 1/2" thick MDF - but
I guess you're actually doing this as staggered laminations of 3/4" ?
Definitely after. It's much easier to not veneer at all, by buying in
ready-veneered boards. This is a good plan, possibly the best. If
you're going to bother veneering at all, do it after and do it right.
For veneering glue, I much prefer hot hide glue. It's a pain to find a
gluepot for it (I use an old kitchen slow-cooker), but the tack
behaviour when you apply the veneer is much nicer to work with.
I never trim veneer with a router. If I'm fooling with veneer, I go
very traditional on tools - veneer saws to cut it (sharpened to a
knife edge), then low-angle block plane and glasspaper to trim it.
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