You have a nice project.
If this the end use of these two pieces is to be without any load or
pressure, compression, twisting or extension your idea is suitable.
The use of biscuits will not add any strength but will facilitate alignment
of the two pieces. The use of pipe clams every 18 inches with moderate
pressure should remain on overnight on a flat surface. That is one clamp
under and one on top. Insert wood blocks between the clamp and the MDF to
avoid pressure damages. This construction will be as strong as the weakest
Conversely if you want a stronger construction your butt joint should be
re-enforced with back up supports using hardwood stringers or salvaged
hockey sticks running across the two pieces of MDF. These stingers should
be glued and fastened in pre-drilled pilot holes with metal screws of
appropriate length. You may want to countersink the pilot holes in the
stringers for aesthetic purpose. Even if the MDF is not waterproof I would
use an exterior wood glue like Lepage, Titebond or better.
Many thanks for your comments. The use of stringers may be possible because
I am making two cabinets and the stringers could also function as shelf
supports. It seems I have much experimentation to do before I start
You don't say how thick, but given the way MDF or other fine-grain particle
boards swell and stay, I'd go dry biscuits for alignment, and something
other than a water-based glue or sparingly.
Better would be the reverse glue joint type of router bits, though if the
pattern is plastic imprint, you might want to check it on a scrap piece.
Continuous spline is easily enough done, and you could make it a bit deeper
than normal if the joint will be under any kind of stress.
The boards are 5/8" and are grain printed. I take your point about using a
non aqueous glue. I thought about using a spline but the grain print surface
might be too delicate to go though my router. Some experiments are in order
before I start construction.
Use a slot cutter and either slick your router specially fine to avoid
scratches, or doublestick the visible surface TIGHTLY to a piece of ply
and pass the router over that. Or that past the table-mounted router, but
I'd say your dimensions favor the former.
Make sure the doublestick doesn't lift the pattern.
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