Epoxy-sealed outdoor furniture

I'm in the planning stages for an outdoor table, which LOML does not want to have the rustic weathered wood look, and which I don't want to refinish every year. I am intrigued by the technique described in this brochure: http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrary/literature/Outdoor_wood_finishing.pdf
In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and applying a uv-blocking final finish.
Anyone have experience with this technique? Can I just plan to use the "encapsulated" boards as pieces of plastic and ignore issues of cross-grain movement? Specifically, can I glue on breadboard ends without allowance for movement? Or is the moisture imperviousness (is that a word?) of the epoxy overstated here?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

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Or is the moisture imperviousness (is

It is totally impervious. However, the smallest crack or chip can let the water in and then it holds it in.
You might just go whole hog and do it like a boat, get some glass fabric and fiberglass the whole thing. You can do it so it is clear as glass and you still see the wood.
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If you are meticulous in the construction, finishing and maintenance, with no slip ups, it will last a good long time. There will be slip ups.
Unless I had some super specific reason for taking wood and torturing it into being something it's not, I'd use a durable, rot resistant wood, and just plan on building it and giving it an oiled finish. It will still take some maintenance, and so will that uv-blocking fiberglass-protecting finish, but you'll save time and money up front.
Think Watco Teak Oil on teak. Ipe would be another species that would work, if you want dense and hard. Redwood, cypress or cedar, in that order, if you want a lighter softer wood. You will end up with dark wood most likely, either due to the species or oil treatment, unless you want to spend more time maintaining the finish to keep it bright.
It is not surprising that a fiberglass manufacturer thinks the world should be coated in fiberglass.
R
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Thanks! I had almost forgotten about Ipe, which with an oil finish may give me the look and limited (I realize there is no "maintenance-free"!) maintenance that I am looking for.

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I rebuilt some installed exterior benches in ipe for a buddies neighbor. We showed them ipe with clear Penofin oil and they loved the rich look. A few years now, recoated once a year and still look great from what I hear.

Ref me????????

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Is that reference me, as in cite? Refresh me, as in what the hell are you talking about? Something else? I'll go with #2. The OP wrote:
"http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrary/literature / Outdoor_wood_finishi...
In a nutshell, it suggests sealing each piece of wood before final assembly with non-blushing epoxy, then using epoxy to assemble, and applying a uv-blocking final finish. "
Hence my reply. It's not surprising that the manufacturer finds their products perfect for everything - for example Nabisco and Ritz mock- apple pie. Everything's better when it sits on a Ritz.
I'm actually surprised that the System Three people didn't suggest building a form with epoxy, pulling a mold from a piece of wood, then discarding the wood and replicating all of the pieces in fiberglass. ;)
R
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I was just wondering if you were referencing me as a fiberglass manufacturer who wanted to fiberglass the world. I will be fiberglassing my Chriscraft knock off at some future point in my life but for now I am in the software and wood furniture/products business'.
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Nope, I had no idea what you did other than the furniture kits that you had posted about. I was simply saying it's no surprise that a manufacturer thinks their products should be everywhere, and please buy them!
What's this ChrisCraft knockoff you mentioned? How big and where was it made?
R
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It is all a dream for right now. Haven't decided what to build first but I will eventually build a Miss Chris 28' (see link to plans below). This Cold-Mold building process is really cool and then planked over with Mohag. http://www.boatdesigns.com/Inboards/departments/9 /
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Well, hell, yes. That really would be a nice boat to tool around in. The American version of some of those old Rivieras.
R
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Just remember that when you do timely maintenance, y'know, before the "it really -needs- it" stage, it takes far less time than to refinish something completely.
I used Watco finish on Mom's entry door (west-facing but sheltered from the rain) and I'd spend 15-30 minutes twice a year on it to keep it looking truly sharp. Watco isn't rated for outdoor use, either.
Watco Teak Oil, or Penofin Red, on Ipe (or $-teak-$) would be my choice, too.
-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
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alexy wrote:

You do realize, don't you, that the UV blocking finish for your purpose is varnish? A better one is paint but that won't let the glory of natural wood shine through. Did I mention that varnish needs fairly frequent attention and recoating? :)
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Yes, probably of the poly urethane variety.

Yeah, I'm aware that it is not permanent, but was hoping that on epoxy it might last better than on wood that is breathing and moving.
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You can use an base paint without the color added. Some of them are practically clear and UV protected. Saw it in a mag a while back.
On 9/27/2011 4:08 PM, dadiOH wrote:

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"alexy" wrote:

----------------------------- You can't get there from here.
A high performance coating will require at least annual maintenance. --------------------------------------

------------------------------------ As mentioned in another post, does a great job if you are willing to invest the time and money to do it. -----------------------------------

------------------------------------ Why would you use bread board ends on an outdoor table?
IMHO, that would be a disaster waiting to happen. ---------------------------------- BTW, any fastners should be bronze.
Bolts with washers and nuts preferred.
Have fun.
Lew
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