dovetail jig

Hi All, any body got any experience using the "Rockler Dovetail Jig " http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?pagee52 is it any good? Eddie.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Eddie wrote: > Hi All, any body got any experience using the "Rockler Dovetail Jig
Looks just like the Jet I just bought at a lower cost from Amazon.
The set up is a little complex, but straight forward.
Keep the directions handy.
Have fun.
Lew
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The new FWW in my mailbox today tests 15 dovetail jigs including the Rockler. Best Overall: Leigh D4R & D1600 Best Value: PC 4200 Series
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It will give you good dovetails if you are very careful in its use. The black template that the router rests on and the router insert guide follows (the black piece with the fingers) is bowed slightly in the plane of the face on mine. It can be adjusted for most normal drawer depths, but for very deep ones the half blinds are not all the same depth. Also, the clamping of the drawer fronts (and backs depending on which I am cutting) under the black template on top is not absolute. Unless I fill up the balance of the width for the drawer fronts with stock of the same thickness as the drawer stock (i.e., simulate a drawer of maximum depth that can be used), the drawer fronts (or backs) are always kicked slighly sideways, while the side being cut at the same time is not. This makes the tops and the bottoms of the fronts (or backs) and the sides not align well. But the price is good (especially when it is on sale, which it was when I bought mine) and as long as you take some extra precautions, it cuts fairly good dovetails.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
dondone wrote:

If you want to stop the finger plate bowing,put another piece of stock in the horizontal clamping position alongside the piece thats there if there's room.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

Incidently this DJ and clones like it was made for an 1/2" router and not the bigger jobbies.
Like I said in another thread a piece of junk. :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id '114
and the current issue covers several more:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/fw_187_056.asp
Time to go buy a copy of the magazine now on the stands.
Eddie wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I bought one four or five years ago, made two drawers, and then gave it away. More trouble than it was worth.
The Akeda jig caught my eye next, and that was 8 or 10 projects, before I ran into something I thought I should be able to do, but couldn't.
They all have a limitation. Pick yours.
My current solution is a LN Dovetail saw & their chisels...
Patriarch
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Patriarch wrote:

I borrowed one which was identical to the *Rockler* as there are many clones of this jig and I agree it was more hassle to set it up than it was worth.
However there is room for improvement on this jig in the way the straight edges on the left and right of the base, for instance these straight edges can be made as 1 unit instead of 2 seperate units on each side. These can be made with 3mm Aluminium,the profile can be cut flat and then bent for the front slot,as its aluminium this will give a better straight edge and can be cut/filed so that it slides in the slot with precision.
Full straight joints can be aquired by raising the horizontal piece with a 1/4" ply underneath and the vertical stock leveled to the horizontal top piece the router can then be set for depth just below the horizontal bottom stock.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

By the time one gets done fussing around with a $75 jig, you might as well buy the $150 one. Or hand cut the joints.
Fussing around with tools is part of the hobby, but there is a limit on how much time I'm willing to invest in fixing a low-end fixture.
But that's just me. Enjoy your shop time!
Patriarch
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.