Defective Freud Router Bit?

[Dave]

I had several dated bits that were in need of upgrading. Never having used Freud, I purchased a few.

I always inspect a new bit before use and I noticed a potential problem with one of them - an ogee bit. On the interior or center of the cardide cutter, each cutter has a weld only at the top and bottom

- the center portion is void of a weld. If only one cutter had this type of weld, I would think it was a defect. However, because each cutter has the same type of weld, which by the way is symmetric and neatly done, it looks to be intentional.

Is there a reason for this type of weld or do I just have a defective bit?

Thanks, Dave

[George]

Don't know, but I'd go compare the brazing on your bit with the others of its type by taking it back. If the others are fully brazed, as are all I've seen, give it back.

Come to think, with the brittleness of carbide, I'd give back anything that wasn't fully and firmly supported.

[DexAZ]

I'd bet if you gave the fine folks at Freud a call or email, they could tell you real quick. IF it is a defect, they probably would exchange it for you promptly. Freud has a reputation for both great products and excellent customer service. I would give them a shot at it before posting to a forum.

DexAZ

[Bay Area Dave]

Freud stuff is pretty much ok, Dave. I'd do as Dex suggested and just give them a polite call Monday morning.

dave

Dave wrote:

[Dave]

Just thought I'd let the group know that I spoke with Freud today.

The technical rep said that the gaps in the weld along the center of the carbide cutter are NORMAL and part of Freud's new design that they're phasing in on several different bits. He said the idea behind the gaps is to provide additional air movement and hence heat dissipation at the center of the bit. Not all of Freud's bits have this design yet but eventually they will.

Dave

[Bay Area Dave]

cool, thanks for getting back to us on the weld thing, Dave. I'm never shy about calling a manufacturer for clarifications on products I buy or are contemplating purchasing. Good to know the weld style is by design.

dave

Dave wrote:

[George]

Did they address the brittleness of unsupported carbide?

Hate to be their Beta tester and eat a chunk of carbide after impacting a knot.

[Leon]

No kidding... The idea makes since but it seems that the carbide should be fully supported. Seems an air gap would simply fill with debris.

[Bay Area Dave]

wouldn't 10-20,000 RPM loosen debris?

dave

Le>>Did they address the brittleness of unsupported carbide?

[Leon]

Nuuuoooooo.....not necessarily. Debris does not have to be loose wood shavings, it can also be that stuff that always builds up on your bits. Sap for instance.

[LD]

----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" Newsgroups: rec.woodworking Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 9:15 AM Subject: Re: Defective Freud Router Bit? - Response from Freud

This sounds like deep Freud BS. The shaft of the bit acts as a heatsink. Any gaps between the carbide and the shaft will impair cooling. This *new design* may work well enough, but it won't run cooler.

[Bay Area Dave]

are you sure? there are billions of vehicles on the roads with radiators relying on air passing through the fins to keep ole nellie from blowing up.

dave

LD wrote:

[Bay Area Dave]

ah, like what I just cleaned off my WWII the other day. now it's all pretty and shiny again!

dave

Le> Nuuuoooooo.....not necessarily. Debris does not have to be loose wood

[Edwin Pawlowski]

After the heatsink is sunk where does the heat go? Why would not increased air flow not make a difference? What is the actual heat flow across the section that is welded versus the open area?

Seems as though we are dealing in supposition and have no facts to back up anything. Could be BS from Freud as cost of welding is reduced, but than again, they may have spent a million bucks doing sophisticated testing. Until I see numbers on one side or the other, I'll keep an open mind. Ed

[LD]

In a watercooled engine, water is the heatsink. It would not be such a good idea to drain the water to increase airflow.

[Bay Area Dave]

I just got a mental picture of someone with a spritzer bottle dutifully cooling their router bit with a cooling spray of water. :) They could route and raise the grain in one operation.

dave

LD wrote:

[Leon]

Here is a funny situation.. I was cleaning my WWII Saturday after cutting up a LOT of Ipe. Ipe is a VERY hard wood and besides the brown saw dust, you also get a bright Yellowy Green "Powdery Dust".

Any way that yellow dust reacts with body sweat and citrus based cleaners. I use CMT's Formula 2050 to clean my bits and blades. When your sweat or the citrus based cleaner touches the yellow dust it instantly turns "BLOOD RED". Needless to say the first few times I worked with Ipe I thought that I had severely cut myself.

[Bay Area Dave]

Didn't know that! All I've heard about Ipe is that it's one tough hombre. (and expensive)

dave

Le>>ah, like what I just cleaned off my WWII the other day. now it's all

[Leon]

Not too expensive but that all depends on where you live. I am buying it for about $6.50 per BF.

[Bay Area Dave]

I pay too much for all hardwoods here. the cheapest, poplar, is around $2 bucks a board foot. It's disgusting how expensive stuff is in the Bay Area. If I didn't have a house with Prop. 13 tax coverage I'd have left the area.

dave

Le>>Didn't know that! All I've heard about Ipe is that it's one tough