chisel & plane blade sharpening?

is there online somewhere a good tutorial on how to sharpen and maintain chisels and block plane knifes? Also instruction on how to restore chisles that have really banged up edges? Im needing to use blockplane more and should sharped the blade.
I caught the end of the program on the DIY channel where he used 4 wet stones to sharpen a block plane knife but not the entire thing. He would take paper thin shavings off the edge of wood after sharpened. I have a water wheel thing with single stone wheel in water well (I guess Tormek like) that I inherited but not sure its the right thing to use by itself as the wet stone approach on the DIY used 4 different stones.
Id probably only need to sharpen infrequently like once every 2-3 months as its a weekend hobby thing. Any thoughts appreciated.
thanks
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Don't bang up edges unless you want to grind them.

Wet-dry paper and piece of plate glass. Might set you back $20.00. Look up "Scary Sharp."
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_The Complete Guide to Sharpening_ by Leonard Lee ISBN 1-56158-125-9
I would guess that it is available through Lee Valley :-)
scott
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http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM is the original posting.
Funny and informative.
trs80 wrote:

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yes. there is. absolutely.

that too.

block plane is a great tool. but you gotta treat it with care and keep it sharp. which is what you are finding out. here's a tip: if you get it good and sharp and keep it that way, it's capable if work you probably haven't seen it do yet.

your tormek-like machine will be very useful, as long as it's working properly. you may want to follow it with one very fine stone or equivalent.

you may be surprised.

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Strongly recommend the Scary Sharp method. It works!
Maybe not the first or second time, but after you get used to it, you get really sharp edges. Amazing what sharp tools can do.
Also--once they are sharp, a quick trip to a hard felt buffing wheel with white compound on it will redo an edge for a while! But not forever.
Old Guy Who is happily using his sharp planes and chisels to build drawers.

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Green chrome compound cuts fast, and leaves a beautiful mirror polish.
The SS method leaves backs of chisels dead flat (important for paring) because the plate glass under the paper doesn't wear. Oil and water stones WILL get dished even with infrequent use.
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thanks. Ill see if I can get set up with the SS method. The only thing I should need to buy is a Honing guide. The rest I should have around.

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I am not a newbee or a oldtimer (except in age) and I have tried that gambit, 1" belt sander (sucks), wet stones (works great if you have the patience of a Buddist monk), Delta Wet Sharpener (hard to use, not so hot results) SS (slow but works great) and a dedicated Wet Tool Grinder (Tormek or Jet, mine is the the point of trying Jointer blades (I find the cost of buying throw away planner blades outweighs the value of sharpening them).
Here is what I am doing now:
For Chisles, Carving tools, scrapers, planes and chip breakers - I religously use the Jet, this puts a great shallow hollow grind on themwhich i then follow up with the SS to flatten the backs and then a real fine grit (4000) water stone for removings the burrs. I use the side of the Jet wet stone to flatten the scrapers.
For turning tools I use the Delta wet grinder on the dry white stone for during the job sharpenings, periodically, I use the Jet to get real nice clean edges on them.
I have yet to figure out how to do a pull knife or draw knife and would welcome any input or ideas.
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Heavy blades like that are easier clamped down and honed with slips. Make your own from 400 and finer wet-dry glued around hardwood blocks.
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