Cherry/Lacewood Side Table

[Leon]

Snip

LOL... Do you recall the first time I think I pissed you off? ;~)

You wee proudly showing off one of your earlier projects and along side the project there you stood. I asked if your wife insisted on you being in the shot. LOL

To this day I hate being in pictures of my finished work. I want the audience to focus on what is important in the picture.

Now having said that, about 18 months ago Nailshooter, Swingman and their significant others were at our house visiting at Christmas time. Nailshooter took what I considered an embarrassing number of detailed, up close, and personal pictures of the "big pantry cabinet" that I had just completed. He insisted in me being in one of those pictures.

And now that I have mentioned this and if he sees this post I can probably expect to see him post that picture. ;~(

[brian]

nce and using a straight bit is much faster (In my experience) than tilting and re-aligning a fence. And an insignificant point to pick on. Agree?

Yes. I caught it after I hit send.

I'm going to end this here, unless someone really provokes me :) and say th at the reason that I keep coming back to the wrec. (around 9-10 years ago I started posting - yeah!) is because I value yours, Swingman's and a few o ther's input. I should have ignored the mud throwing (which in my opinion w asn't constructive criticism or useful in any way - maybe I should have bee n more specific?).

I'll be back! :)

[woodchucker]

Brian, a router bit will not cut like a TS will. it will leave scallops, while a really nice blade (Forrest) will leave a finished edge.

I would tilt my blade too, rather than hold my panel like you are doing.

BTW it takes me a few minutes to tilt my TS blade, I have a contractor table saw so I need to remove my baffles at the back... but I prefer that to other methods.. it's why I bought a TILTING ARBOR saw in the first place..

[woodchucker]

That shot shows the top much better, the head on view looked like the grain was so vastly different that it did not belong.

I now agree that it looks better.

I also see what I consider poor machining on the jointer. I press down on the front of the board, and once I have enough room, both paddles are on the front, one overlaps the blade the other well in front. I never push from the back that way.

If you look you will see it (TS ).

[Lee Michaels]

"Leon" wrote

There is the famous Leon Fat Ass Sag Test, LFAST. I understand that you volunteered your wife for that test, but she refused. I thought it was epic. A simple test. Will it hold me up? If so, it will not sag under anything I place on this shelf. You can't get more basic (and pragmatic) than that!

[Bill]

You have a doctoral degree in chemistry and you sought donations (here) to buy a video camera for your web site? Gee, that's pretty close to "deception by omission".

[brian]

I suppose it wouldn't make a difference if you knew I've been out of work since last December eh?

Go lick a boot.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the b oard catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, str essed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into yo ur crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky.

Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dan gers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc.

[Lew Hodgett]

---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Casper" wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------- How about, "Take a flying f*ck at a rolling donut"?

Lew

[Leon]

IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that.

[Leon]

There is no proof that my face is on the other side of that "ass"! LOL

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------------------------------- "Le> Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside

----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches:

TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth +

1/2".

Designed to minimize injury damage.

(Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together)

A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO.

Lew

[Bill]

Just curious whether anyone can validate Lew's technnique. It's more blade exposure than I would have thought required.

Bill

[Bill]

Here's a short related thread from Lumberjocks:

[none]

On Wed, 03 Jul 2013 14:25:28 -0500, Leon

Why wait? Post it yourself and you can control the initial caption that comes with the image. :)

[Markem]

To your eye, but not mine the lacewoods grain is way to busy for my tastes.

Mark

[dpb]

...

...

Industrial text (don't recall it's pedigree/author/publisher otomh and it's not handy to look) was taught from "back in the day" at uni industrial shop was "gullet plus a little" -- anything more wasn't of value re: kickback and adds to the likelihood of accidental contact.

Pretty similar although a full half-inch above clearing gullet height would have been considered more than a little--more like quarter/maybe

3/8" would have been approved of...

Research I'm unaware of; I'd wager these ad hoc rules came from practical application rather than any research specifically designed for the purpose.

[woodchucker]

Bill, you do what you like, For me it makes sense to cool the carbide. It also makes sense that cutting down will cause less kick back than cutting into the wood.

if for some reason you veer from the fence, you cause a bind (slight) but the teeth are pushing toward you. When the blade is high, they are pushing toward the table top.

Take a look at Brian's cuts, see the burning. Too low, so Brian prides himself on a good setup and is still burning. So either he is moving too slow or he has the blade too low.. or both..

BTW why is having the blade low safe??? you can barely see it.. you may not cut all the way through a finger, but it can cut you good, and it can kickback more easily. So why is it safer...

All of this is what I find better, you may find something else. That's fine...

[Leon]

Use the height you are most comfortable. You can get a kick back any time you are cutting wood on a TS. The only written suggestion that I have seen was by Systematic, IIRC it suggested that the bottom of the gullet should be just above the top of the wood.

[Leon]

Or cutting Cherry! It is tough not to burn cherry.