Buying used Stanley planes

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On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 13:20:15 -0700, Father Haskell

What's a #18? When I Google it, all I get are bevel gauges.
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Block plane. Cap was built in a very cool 2 piece "hinge" design that snaps closed, allowing fast iron installation and removal.
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wrote:

Many times the amount you paid for the # 18.
I don't know what numbers they are, maybe a 9, but I have some knuckle cap block planes I never use. I don't have much regard for them. The old 60 1/2 planes are good to go most of the time.
The Bedrocks are high dollar planes and on top of that, I added Hock irons with Clifton breakers. These planes are treasured and they certainly do what they are called upon to do. I don't apologize for having them.
My issue with your earlier comments is that the tools I've seen at flea markets have mostly been junk, certainly not users. I would rather make things from wood than fiddle with junk tools. I think that if you find a #8 for $30, it is probably junk or the seller doesn't know the value of the tool. The few flea market tools that I would be interested in have been grossly over priced.
But, the great thing about wood working is that we can make what we want out of the wood we want, finish it like we want to, and we can use the tools we want to use.
If you like inexpensive flea market tools, more power to you. :-)
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My 18 required nothing more than derusting, oiling, and sharpening, and it was back in working order. Trickiest part was adjusting the cap screw so it wouldn't pop open, but it's been a great user since. OTOH, I have a couple of Sargent knuckle planes that are real junk, hand injuries waiting to bite. Uglier than an Irish hangover, too.

Get a couple of Norris smoothers, and your life will be complete.

$25 for my 1910 #6, down from $30.
I've walked away from a few. The intact, restorable ones are fun to take from rust to shiny hand scraped, flat to within 0.000000001 micron, gems.

It's an excuse to get out and exercise.
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wrote:

I think we are in agreement! :-)
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