BookCase Update and HDR Photog

[Leon]

Thank you... those are the tower project, bedroom furniture I am working on...

[Lee Michaels]

[Lee Michaels]

I really can't advise you in this regard as I am as clueless as you are in this department. And I sypathyze with having to spend big bucks on some tools. I need to do similar things as well for my business, And forgive me for pointing out the obvious.

You CAN deduct the cost of a camera since you are definitely using it for business.

I know, I know, deductions don't pay the bills. Now if I could just figure out how to do that! ;-)

[Dave In Texas]

You shouldn't need an account to browse through these:

Dave in Houston flickr :: HaveNikon_WillTravel

[Dave In Texas]

A cable release works well, too. In the digital realm they have come electronic triggers. Here is the Photomatix web link. You can download a trial version, same as the paid-for version except for the watermarks.

[GarageWoodworks]

Only problem is that unless using autobracket, I will need to change the shutter speed.

[GarageWoodworks]

[Dave In Texas]

I should change my flickr link:

[Dave In Texas]

Yes, set your camera to aperture priority to prevent depth of field from changing from one exposure to the next. Shooting in RAW is also a requirement for HDR though I do believe that jpgs are required for "exposure blending."

[Larry Jaques]

On Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:48:06 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks scrawled the following:

they sand out?

I see 3 horribly deep gouges in each of the front posts!

[GarageWoodworks]

I was hoping nobody would notice. :^( Thanks a lot for pointing it out to everyone!

-Abraham Lincoln

[Leon]

Actually you want the apature to change during autobracketing when shooting for HDR pictures. You are not really looking for shutter speed changes.

[Leon]

Shooting in RAW is also a

Not correct, I never shood in RAW for HDR, always jpg.

[Robatoy]

[e-mail]...

You want DOF to remain the same, so shutter speed it is... unless a CCD suffers from reciprocity problems. If you're shooting in bright conditions with a wide angle, DOF isn't much of an issue, so the aperture option opens up.

[Leon]

You want DOF to remain the same, so shutter speed it is... unless a CCD suffers from reciprocity problems. If you're shooting in bright conditions with a wide angle, DOF isn't much of an issue, so the aperture option opens up.

Thinking about that,,,, I believe you are right.... I stand corrected. I have always read and done autobracketing the pictures to get at least 3 exposures. My oldest cameras that did this automatically did that only in shutter priority mode so the DOF was changed. So I naturally thought that way when taking on HDR. DOH I'll have to try that out...

Actually my current camers does auto bracketing in a small variety of modes including simulated film mode and Dynamic Range mode which changes the simulated film speed..

Oddly AE Autobracketing in Apeture or Shutter priority results in a fixed shutter speed with apeture changes for the 3 exposures. Autobracketind in Program mode however changes the shutter speed and leaves the apeture the same...

Actually I think/know that you can chose either mode shutter or apeture and get the necessary exposures however I can see an advantage of chooseing one over the other especially if you want a sharp crisp picture.

[Leon]

Ok, I can see where both ways would be to an advantage on certain situations.

I checked my camera and AE autobracketing switches to shutter priority when in Apeture or Shutter priority mode. It does AE autobracket with Apeture priority when in Program mode...

[Robatoy]

That was one of the pleasures of shooting that good old Kodachrome 25. That stuff was so slow, you almost always shot wide open so outdoor portraits (although not an ideal film for portraits) had the background turn into this fantastic blur of colours off-setting the focused element of the shot as if it was 3D-looking. 64 was a bit more versatile, but either film was full of lies...nice lies, but lies nonetheless.

I started using HDR shots when I needed the shadow detail for texture bump-maps for use in Strata. One shot 'over' would usually all I'd need to add to the texture. Yup, Sony with a floppy.

[Swingman]

Mavica? Still have one of latter ones with an optical telephoto lens ... in a case in the office closet for the last ten years or so.

[Leon]

Exactly, the fast short lenses could draw out single area details for that

3D look.

I however also like for everything to be in focus "for certain type shots" for what I refer to as that "Old Timey Painting" look. Basically the opposite effect.

[Robatoy]

YES! I wracked my brain trying to think of it. Maaaan was that slow and awkward. I never owned it, it belonged to a friend of mine who in turn borrowed it from the police dept. This thing was fixed focal length... 640x480 IIRC. The first digital camera I bought for myself was a Nikon 885. Then to a Sony H2, which I still have, That 12x Optical Zeiss is actually quite good. Then a 10MP Lumix which I bought strictly for its size as I have it in my brief case or pocket.... always. That Leica lens does some things quite well. Amazing little camera for interior shots as it has an equivalent of a 28 mm wide angle. My kid's Canon Rebel is a wonderful camera which gets great results. I am dead serious about getting an M9 Leica at some point. I saw a 20" x 24" print that just knocked me on my ass... that oughtta shut up anybody who still clings to analogue/wet photography. That is one sick little camera.... but a bit pricey. (A guy will always need something to wish for.)