Blade burning hard maple

Page 2 of 2  


Best and cheapest way of cleaning the residue from your blade: get a plastic dishpan that's large enough to lay the blade down flat. Then dissolve 1/4 cup of washing soda in 1 quart of warm water in the dishpan. Lay the blade down in it, and let it soak five to ten minutes. Most of the residue will wipe off with a sponge. Anything that remains can be scrubbed off easily with an old toothbrush, nylon pot scrubber, etc.
Washing soda can be found in the laundry aisle of most grocery stores. I buy the Arm & Hammer brand -- box looks just like Arm & Hammer baking soda, except a lot bigger.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/28/16 6:31 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

"Simple Green" also works great. I use a 5-qt. oil drain pan from Wally World, as cheap as cheap can get.
-BR
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 9:31:04 AM UTC-5, Brewster wrote:

I went ahead and bought Rockler's pitch and resin remover. It was 12 bucks for a spray bottle. It's not supposed to harm the blade's coating.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 10/1/2016 9:42 AM, Michael wrote:

Another bio degradable cleaner that works quickly is CMT2050. The small bottle will clean a blade, for me, about 10~15 times. No need to submerge the blade, just spray on and let it sit a couple of minutes and wipe off. It has a citrus orange aroma.
http://www.wwhardware.com/cmt-bit-and-blade-cleaner-cmt998-001-01
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Neither will washing soda. And 12 bucks worth of washing soda will clean your saw blades for the rest of your life.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 10/1/2016 10:31 AM, Brewster wrote:

The lid from a 5 gallon plastic bucket works well as a shallow pan. No worries about damaging a tooth, conserves whatever cleaning solution you pick.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 19:56:06 -0700 (PDT), Michael

Are you sure your miter slot is parallel to the blade? Your fence adjusted perfectly perpendicular to the table edge?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/27/2016 10:56 PM, Michael wrote:

Are you crosscutting? Are you ripping?
Generally if you feed to slow you will burn maple or any wood. Too fast, and the wood will let you know. Is your alignment ok, or did something cause it to be out of alignment?
For less than high end, try the freud blades.. pretty good. For high end, FW II.. nothing better IMHO.
--
Jeff

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 9/28/2016 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:

One more thing. The blade should be high enough to clear the gullets. Also the higher it is the faster you can cut, since the teet are cutting down, rather than at at 30 or 45 degrees to the sidecut for instance.
--
Jeff

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 9:56:08 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

Actually, it lasts a fairly long time. For $19.95, you can't afford to sharpen it, you just get a new one.
I did not want to mention this, because of the flack I would/will take, but I did a side by side with a Woodworker II and sent the WW2 back.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 10/1/2016 9:47 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

Define a fairly long time. For occasionally use that is perfectly fine. I have a WWII that has been sharpened 3 times in 17 years. My total all in cost of that is under $200. Building an average of 7 pieces of furniture per year.
Your are right about reshaprening, that would be a minimum of $25.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What? You're a complete fool and water maroon. There's no wayz your cheap bladez runz az goodz as a Fess Tool Woodworker II!!!!!!elevenhundredeleven
I might have to pop in to HF and pick one of them up to see. I've started running Bosch blades with C3 carbide in my TS. They seem to be good quality, at least as good as the Freuds from HD.
Puckdropper
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.