Right there with you dadiOH! Even in shop environment, I have became one wi th an apron. For all manner of reasons including the advent of sturdy $12 jeans, I don't worry about the clothes I wear on the job and see them as di sposable tools that are replaced as needed. Shirts seem to last a long tim e, though.
Worse still, when I start a job that is mostly cabinet/trims/moldings, I st ill use a regular yellow #2 pencil! And even worse than that, since I can usually shave with my pocket knives (I carry two every day to work), I hand sharpen out on site with a pocket knife! Yikes!
I can put long thin points on the pencils for trims, and will often sharpen "point up" to make just two or three marks. I can put on blunt points fo r general marking, or for writing all over job walls as I am known to do. That way for me, one pencil fits all. If I am actually doing a day of fram ing (rare these days) I buy a framing pencil.
I carry my pencil behind my ear as I have since I started out. If I am doi ng a lot of trim that requires a fine point on the marker, I will sharpen u p two or three pencils at a time and carry the extras in my pocket until re ady for use.
I tried the 1.5mm and 2mm pencils and one wasn't sturdy enough and the othe r left a mark that was too fat. I bought harder leads from the office supp ly house, and the 1.5 left a mark that was too faint to see.
Interestingly, one of the few very successful furniture makers I know uses a BIC brand fine point with the plain white barrel, sometimes medium, as hi s only marking tool. He also teaches, and that is what he recommends. Mar ks are easy to see, as fine as you would like, and the pen never needs shar pening.
Robert