Air operated staple gun

I hope to buy an air operated staple gun tomorrow. My primary use will be to fasten screen wire and soffit boards around the perimeter of the storage shed for ventalation. Harbor freight has them as cheap as $19.95. I am looking at the 1/4" crown style. Any suggestions? Gauge?

Reply to
Leon
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Arrow T50 style is very handy.

1/4" crown style sucks for things like plastic, tarpaper, and upholstery. T T50 staple has a nice beefy gauge for holing soft goods. I have both and use my Airy T50 style at least as often as my 1/4
Reply to
Buck

For fastening trim such as soffit boards, a narrow-crown stapler such as you describe should work well. The boards are thick enough to allow the staples to countersink. For fastening screen wire, these staples will probably just blow a hole in the screen wire without actually fastening the screen wire to the frame. It's too much power for that application directly to the screen wire. Might get by if the stapler has adjustable depth control.

The alternatives are:

  1. use a spring-powered stapler such as the Arrow T-50 or a hammer-tacker such as the HT50A.
  2. use a metal or wood strip over the screen wire perimeter to prevent overpenetration of the narrow-crown staples

A pneumatic upholstery stapler might work for this application if reduced to the lowest pressure which will cycle the driver blade. It will depend on the frame wood type.

Reply to
Thomas Kendrick

Why not an Air powered stapler that shoots T50s? That's what I use. Beats both the spring and the hammer.

Reply to
Buck

Thanks. I have to manual staplers already for light weight stuff. The stapler that I am looking at has depth control. I really need something that will go through plywood or hard board and hold better than my finish nailer.

Reply to
Leon

I have thought about the staple going through the screen and am considering the adjustable depth one for that reason. I can restaple if necessary as the staples will be covered and screen tightness will not be an issue.

I do have a couple of spring powered staplers but wanted to speed up the process.

That is eventually how the edges of the screen are going to be finished off. I was needing to temporarly hold the screen until I fasten the border that will cover the edges of the screen.

Reply to
Leon

They seem to come in three flavors:

(a) Fairly small using narrow crown up to about 1" (b) Small/Medium using narrow crown to to around 1.5" (c) Major league that shoot them whoppers up to 2" long.

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have the smaller one and love it.. I also have a Bostich that shoots the larger ones up to 1.75" in length.

Putting backs in cabinets is MUCH better with staples in my opinion.

I don't buy from Harbor Freight, so no comments.

Le> I hope to buy an air operated staple gun tomorrow. My primary use will be

Reply to
Pat Barber

Leon,

I have the Porter-Cable NS150 and I have used it to fasten poultry wire ("chicken wire") fencing around the wife's garden with good success. Fiddle with the depth setting and air pressure and you'll be fine.

That said, I also have a 1999 Mallard by Fleetwood 5th wheel travel trailer that I just repaired too. The bozos at Fleetwood used narrow crown staples to attach the aluminum siding, but drove the staples completely through the aluminum and I had a sheet peel off at 65 mph.

(Fleetwood finally agreed that it was a birth defect but refused to fix it because the warranty has expired.) Bastards.

Reply to
Wes Stewart

Through may 30, my local HF has the brad/stapler combo for $24 (in-store only). It includes brads, staples, wrenches, oil, and a case. I bought one saturday and it works great for the money. No depth adjustment, so buy a regulator that you can hard-mount to the gun.

The only problem is that it leaves staple-sized marks when using brads. I didn't care because I went to buy a stapler, not a combo gun and I have a dewalt 18 guage for just plain brads.

Reply to
Jay

A T50 holds better than 1.4 crown staple. And a 15 gauge finishing nail holds at least as well.

1/4 crowns suck in hardboard. best use glue as well.
Reply to
Buck

1/4" crown staples are useless for screen. You are wasting your time.
Reply to
Buck

issue. Most of my shop is held together with these staples and TiteBond Glue. I wouldn't waste money buying a gun that shoots only up to one inch. Better to buy a gun like an Airy that shoots a T50 staple to 9/16ths. They hold much much better and work exceptionally well with thin materials.

Reply to
Buck

I agree, I have the HF stapler, and while its worth the price I paid and would recomend to anyone for occational use. The 1/4" staples are worthless for light material, i thought to use it for insullation, Ummmm..no joy! so I bought a hand t50.

Reply to
Dan Baker

Probably will go exterior 1/4 plywood for the soffits as my experience is that it holds up better to moisture in the Houston area. I'll agree that the hard board surface is best not penetrated by the head of a fastener for long term holding. Off and on I do residential repair work when not building custom furniture and find that the 1/4" staples hold their own with wood applications. I have had to remove plenty of trim pieces with staples. I have been using a finish nailer for 15 years and the heads just don't have the grab when there is a constant weight pulling on them.

Reply to
Leon

We'll see... I bought the 1/4" stapler and am able to adjust the depth such that the head is just above the surface of the wood, I can see under the head of the staple. Thanks

Reply to
Leon

I got one that shoots 3/8" to 1-5/8" long. Tried a 1-1/2" long staple in the edge of a piece of poplar and the staple disappeared. I adjusted the depth and left the a 1/2" and 1-1/2" staple just above the surface of the wood.

While my single reason for this gun is to attach soffit panels I may get more mileage from my $20. gun for cabinet backs also.

Since I make my living doing woodworking I steer towards the better tools. My other air nailers are Senco's. But for a one use tool I felt $20 was not too much to risk.

Thanks for the comments.

Reply to
Leon

It will tear out the first time pressure is applied to the screen if it's nylon. You need a wide flat staple that holds several strands tightly to the surface.

Reply to
Buck

I ended up with the 40072 from HF. $20. I can adjust the depth to Just above the surface of the wood without toughing the wood. I may go with a HD hardware cloth instead of screen wire for the soffit vents. I'll probably seldom use this tool but if it holds out for this 1 job, I'll be happy. If I become addected to it i may get a better one.

Geez... seems like any staple on aluminum would simply be a temporary fix until you could use screws to fasten it better.

Thanks for the comments

Reply to
Leon

I understand your concern and reasoning however the use of this gun to temporarily hold the screen in place for a few hours at most. I will cover the edges of the screen and staples with the soffit board to permanently hold everything in place. The staples in the screen will be to just hold it from falling off the bottom side of the extended joists while I attach the soffits panels over the screen.

Reply to
Leon

So these aren't the usual aluminum soffits used with vinyl siding?

Reply to
Buck

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