Air operated staple gun

Page 1 of 2  
I hope to buy an air operated staple gun tomorrow. My primary use will be to fasten screen wire and soffit boards around the perimeter of the storage shed for ventalation. Harbor freight has them as cheap as $19.95. I am looking at the 1/4" crown style. Any suggestions? Gauge?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

1/4" crown style sucks for things like plastic, tarpaper, and upholstery. T T50 staple has a nice beefy gauge for holing soft goods. I have both and use my Airy T50 style at least as often as my 1/4
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks. I have to manual staplers already for light weight stuff. The stapler that I am looking at has depth control. I really need something that will go through plywood or hard board and hold better than my finish nailer.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And a 15 gauge finishing nail holds at least as well. 1/4 crowns suck in hardboard. best use glue as well.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Probably will go exterior 1/4 plywood for the soffits as my experience is that it holds up better to moisture in the Houston area. I'll agree that the hard board surface is best not penetrated by the head of a fastener for long term holding. Off and on I do residential repair work when not building custom furniture and find that the 1/4" staples hold their own with wood applications. I have had to remove plenty of trim pieces with staples. I have been using a finish nailer for 15 years and the heads just don't have the grab when there is a constant weight pulling on them.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I agree, I have the HF stapler, and while its worth the price I paid and would recomend to anyone for occational use. The 1/4" staples are worthless for light material, i thought to use it for insullation, Ummmm..no joy! so I bought a hand t50.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
For fastening trim such as soffit boards, a narrow-crown stapler such as you describe should work well. The boards are thick enough to allow the staples to countersink. For fastening screen wire, these staples will probably just blow a hole in the screen wire without actually fastening the screen wire to the frame. It's too much power for that application directly to the screen wire. Might get by if the stapler has adjustable depth control.
The alternatives are: 1. use a spring-powered stapler such as the Arrow T-50 or a hammer-tacker such as the HT50A. 2. use a metal or wood strip over the screen wire perimeter to prevent overpenetration of the narrow-crown staples
A pneumatic upholstery stapler might work for this application if reduced to the lowest pressure which will cycle the driver blade. It will depend on the frame wood type.
On Mon, 24 May 2004 22:22:53 GMT, "Leon"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Why not an Air powered stapler that shoots T50s? That's what I use. Beats both the spring and the hammer.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I have thought about the staple going through the screen and am considering the adjustable depth one for that reason. I can restaple if necessary as the staples will be covered and screen tightness will not be an issue.

I do have a couple of spring powered staplers but wanted to speed up the process.

That is eventually how the edges of the screen are going to be finished off. I was needing to temporarly hold the screen until I fasten the border that will cover the edges of the screen.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 25 May 2004 11:52:26 GMT, "Leon"
|
| |> For fastening trim such as soffit boards, a narrow-crown stapler such |> as you describe should work well. The boards are thick enough to allow |> the staples to countersink. |> For fastening screen wire, these staples will probably just blow a |> hole in the screen wire without actually fastening the screen wire to |> the frame. It's too much power for that application directly to the |> screen wire. Might get by if the stapler has adjustable depth control.| |I have thought about the staple going through the screen and am considering |the adjustable depth one for that reason. I can restaple if necessary as |the staples will be covered and screen tightness will not be an issue.
Leon,
I have the Porter-Cable NS150 and I have used it to fasten poultry wire ("chicken wire") fencing around the wife's garden with good success. Fiddle with the depth setting and air pressure and you'll be fine.
That said, I also have a 1999 Mallard by Fleetwood 5th wheel travel trailer that I just repaired too. The bozos at Fleetwood used narrow crown staples to attach the aluminum siding, but drove the staples completely through the aluminum and I had a sheet peel off at 65 mph.
(Fleetwood finally agreed that it was a birth defect but refused to fix it because the warranty has expired.) Bastards.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I ended up with the 40072 from HF. $20. I can adjust the depth to Just above the surface of the wood without toughing the wood. I may go with a HD hardware cloth instead of screen wire for the soffit vents. I'll probably seldom use this tool but if it holds out for this 1 job, I'll be happy. If I become addected to it i may get a better one.

Geez... seems like any staple on aluminum would simply be a temporary fix until you could use screws to fasten it better.
Thanks for the comments
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

We'll see... I bought the 1/4" stapler and am able to adjust the depth such that the head is just above the surface of the wood, I can see under the head of the staple. Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You need a wide flat staple that holds several strands tightly to the surface.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I understand your concern and reasoning however the use of this gun to temporarily hold the screen in place for a few hours at most. I will cover the edges of the screen and staples with the soffit board to permanently hold everything in place. The staples in the screen will be to just hold it from falling off the bottom side of the extended joists while I attach the soffits panels over the screen.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
They seem to come in three flavors:
(a) Fairly small using narrow crown up to about 1" (b) Small/Medium using narrow crown to to around 1.5" (c) Major league that shoot them whoppers up to 2" long.
http://www.portercable.com/index.asp?eT7&p &09
I have the smaller one and love it.. I also have a Bostich that shoots the larger ones up to 1.75" in length.
Putting backs in cabinets is MUCH better with staples in my opinion.
I don't buy from Harbor Freight, so no comments.
Leon wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

issue. Most of my shop is held together with these staples and TiteBond Glue. I wouldn't waste money buying a gun that shoots only up to one inch. Better to buy a gun like an Airy that shoots a T50 staple to 9/16ths. They hold much much better and work exceptionally well with thin materials.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I got one that shoots 3/8" to 1-5/8" long. Tried a 1-1/2" long staple in the edge of a piece of poplar and the staple disappeared. I adjusted the depth and left the a 1/2" and 1-1/2" staple just above the surface of the wood.

While my single reason for this gun is to attach soffit panels I may get more mileage from my $20. gun for cabinet backs also.

Since I make my living doing woodworking I steer towards the better tools. My other air nailers are Senco's. But for a one use tool I felt $20 was not too much to risk.
Thanks for the comments.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

So these aren't the usual aluminum soffits used with vinyl siding?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.