I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply so that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
What's the best way to do this?
I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess but I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as well.
The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
More info please.
How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
If you're within 5 inches of the edges you can use a wheeled marking gauge to deeply scribe the inside and outside edges of the cut. A single beveled marking wheel device like the Tite-Mark, with the mortise cutting wheels, will allow you to cut the inside and outside lines at once AND with the bevel on the cut nice and square on the non-waste side
+----------+ +-----------+ +------- | |/ \| | + + | | +----------------------------------- Here's a link about the Tite-Mark with a couple of links to places you can buy this great toolHow long are the longest and shortest pieces going to be? If the inlays are only a foot or two long then you could use a straight edge and a single bevel marking knive to inscribe the lines. Scribe tghe lines in multiple light cuts rather than one deep cut. A dado plane could then be used to remove the waste between the lines
50 mm is a little under 2 inches (1.97 inches). 1 mm (0.039") is a bit of 1/32 (0.032") of an inchWhat handtools do you have that can be used and are you good with them?
Do you own a plunge router with precision plunge depth setting capabilities?
Do you have a precision edge fence for the plunge router The Micro-Fence is a very precise fence system that is great for inlaying. Here's a link for it.
More info please.
charlie b
The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.
The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.
Yes, I've got a plung router, I used 12mm bit previously, I'll try a smaller diameter next test cut.
Thanks for the ideas.
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:23:29 +1000, "Roger Martin" brought forth from the murky depths:
Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam? If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and bowed surface) and using the router may be your best bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood) prior to using it on my project.
========================================================== CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball! ==========================================================
this might be a good application for a scratch stock
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 08:42:05 -0700, Bridger brought forth from the murky depths:
Only if he didn't buy a pre-stringered foam blank.
========================================================== CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball! ==========================================================
Its a hollow board, all wood - well almost - apart from the carbon fibre stringer and the glass fibre it will have encapsulating it in a few weeks.
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 06:59:29 +1000, "Roger Martin" brought forth from the murky depths:
Wow, quite unusual. So, where are you putting the inlay?!? In any case, jiggin' it is the way to go with a router. Do you have tall shaping stands? If so, build it up there so the router is closer to your (goggled) eyes so you can guide it.
.-. Life is short. Eat dessert first! ---
The 50mm inlay will run down the centreline of the board on the deck. I've got some 6mm wide inlay as well which I will run around the deck perimeter.
The hull is glued onto the frame (did that yesterday) so its actually starting to look something like a longboard. My biggest problem has been a lack of clamps (I've got about 30 and need about 100) - I made up some cross clamps using 50x50 and some 1/4" threaded rod which pulls everything up nice and square.
Its been an interesting project, it takes longer to work out how to clamp, make mould formers for the nose and tail than the actual building. The rails are made from ply and balsa to bend around the nose and tail.
On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 08:25:28 +1000, "Roger Martin" brought forth from the murky depths:
Is the stringer entirely covered, and are you laying this into the hull boards? What's the shape of the perimeter? Standard surfboard curves? I grew up in SoCal and had friends who glassed boards. I couldn't stand the smell of the curing chemicals or the dust from sanding, so I pretty much stayed away. I got to watch the designs from pencil and paper sketch to fully-glassed boards, which was fun. I gave up surfing the same year, got into skimboarding, and never looked back.
Pictures, man. We need pictures! Got a digicam and site?
Yeah, maybe a few of us have experienced a clamp shortage once or twice in our wooddorkin' lives.
Some clamping is more easily done in bulk than singularly. Got a looooong, narrow vacuum bag? Suck her together.
I do want to see pics of that thing. The only board I ever had was a 10'4" Gordon & Smith. Viva Longboards!
.-. Life is short. Eat dessert first! ---
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