Advice needed

I need to remove a 1mm deep by 50mm wide recess in some 5mm marine ply so that I can put a patterned inlay into the surface.
What's the best way to do this?
I've tried scoring the surface with a knife and then routing the recess but I've ended up with some fairly rough edges - and some perfect ones as well.
The combined wisdom of this group would be appreciated.
--
www.bribieisland4x4hire.com
VW Kombi Camper Buy Backs
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Roger Martin wrote:

More info please.
How far from the edges will the inlay begin?
If you're within 5 inches of the edges you can use a wheeled marking gauge to deeply scribe the inside and outside edges of the cut. A single beveled marking wheel device like the Tite-Mark, with the mortise cutting wheels, will allow you to cut the inside and outside lines at once AND with the bevel on the cut nice and square on the non-waste side
+----------+ +-----------+ +------- | |/ \| | + + | | +----------------------------------- Here's a link about the Tite-Mark with a couple of links to places you can buy this great tool
http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/MTprimer10b.html
How long are the longest and shortest pieces going to be? If the inlays are only a foot or two long then you could use a straight edge and a single bevel marking knive to inscribe the lines. Scribe tghe lines in multiple light cuts rather than one deep cut. A dado plane could then be used to remove the waste between the lines
50 mm is a little under 2 inches (1.97 inches). 1 mm (0.039") is a bit of 1/32 (0.032") of an inch
What handtools do you have that can be used and are you good with them?
Do you own a plunge router with precision plunge depth setting capabilities?
Do you have a precision edge fence for the plunge router The Micro-Fence is a very precise fence system that is great for inlaying. Here's a link for it.
http://www.microfence.com /
What size router bit were you using in your attempts so far Might want to go with a smaller diameter bit first then a larger one to hog out the rest of the waste.
More info please.
charlie b
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The inlay is along the centre line of a surfboard.

The inlays will be about 3.5 metres long.

diameter next test cut.

Thanks for the ideas.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 06:23:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"

Can you inlay the stringer before foaming and glassing it, or is this a blank, complete with stringer/foam? If not, building a jig (no easy feat on a curved and bowed surface) and using the router may be your best bet. I so seldom use a router that I have to practice on several pieces (to get used to how it chews wood) prior to using it on my project.
=========================================================CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball! ========================================================= http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 26 Feb 2004 15:25:37 GMT, Larry Jaques

this might be a good application for a scratch stock
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
forth from the murky depths:

Only if he didn't buy a pre-stringered foam blank.
=========================================================CAUTION: Do NOT look directly into laser with remaining eyeball! ========================================================= http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote in message

stringer and the glass fibre it will have encapsulating it in a few weeks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 06:59:29 +1000, "Roger Martin"

Wow, quite unusual. So, where are you putting the inlay?!? In any case, jiggin' it is the way to go with a router. Do you have tall shaping stands? If so, build it up there so the router is closer to your (goggled) eyes so you can guide it.
.-. Life is short. Eat dessert first! --- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
brought forth from the murky depths:

got some 6mm wide inlay as well which I will run around the deck perimeter.
The hull is glued onto the frame (did that yesterday) so its actually starting to look something like a longboard. My biggest problem has been a lack of clamps (I've got about 30 and need about 100) - I made up some cross clamps using 50x50 and some 1/4" threaded rod which pulls everything up nice and square.
Its been an interesting project, it takes longer to work out how to clamp, make mould formers for the nose and tail than the actual building. The rails are made from ply and balsa to bend around the nose and tail.
--
www.bribieisland4x4hire.com
VW Kombi Camper Buy Backs
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 08:25:28 +1000, "Roger Martin"

Is the stringer entirely covered, and are you laying this into the hull boards? What's the shape of the perimeter? Standard surfboard curves? I grew up in SoCal and had friends who glassed boards. I couldn't stand the smell of the curing chemicals or the dust from sanding, so I pretty much stayed away. I got to watch the designs from pencil and paper sketch to fully-glassed boards, which was fun. I gave up surfing the same year, got into skimboarding, and never looked back.

Pictures, man. We need pictures! Got a digicam and site?

Yeah, maybe a few of us have experienced a clamp shortage once or twice in our wooddorkin' lives.

Some clamping is more easily done in bulk than singularly. Got a looooong, narrow vacuum bag? Suck her together.
I do want to see pics of that thing. The only board I ever had was a 10'4" Gordon & Smith. Viva Longboards!
.-. Life is short. Eat dessert first! --- http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Is the piece you want to put this grove in sized where you could do with a couple passes with a DADO on the tablesaw??? Or use a good sawblade to make the cuts at the edges of the dada, then use the router to remove the material in the middle??
John On Wed, 25 Feb 2004 18:13:35 +1000, "Roger Martin"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.