Wiki: Key copy

[NT]

I failed to get what I wanted locally, so copied my own keys instead. So time for a wiki article:

NT

Key copy

Key cutting is quite quick once the bits are assembled together. It requires precision grinding, needing decent eyesight. DIY key copies do have a failure rate.

==Blank== Key blanks can be bought online from 3rd party sellers or lock manufacturers.

==Clamp== pic here

Clamp the 2 keys, original and blank, together firmly. A mole grip works well. Align the key shoulders accurately, don't worry about the key tips, which sometimes dont align (copied keys can be longer or very slightly shorter, and usually its not a problem.)

Mark the original, eg with a big black marker, its too easy to end up grinding the wrong key otherwise, then you've got no working keys and need a new lock. Its best to mark the original permanently so you can copy from it. Copies of copies aren't very reliable.

==Cut== A die grinder with carbide bit, or a rat's tail file can be used. Cut it down accurately to match the original. A few strokes of a file then removes any sharp edges and swarf.

Before inserting the key, check the sloped sections between the pin landings are all suitably sloped. It only takes one little bit with much to steep an angle for the key to refuse to come out again.

pic here

Removing any sticking-out points between key lands makes a key work much more smoothly.

[Jonathan]

Not knowing much about keys this would make more sense if you described and labelled in a picture the parts. E.g.

Shoulder pin landings lands.

Regards

Jonathan

[Graham.]

This is a wiki about copying a particular kind of key, a key for a cylinder lock. You should state that at the outset perhaps giving examples of the Yale type latch, and the Euro lock.

[NT]

Suggestions incorporated, thanks.

Key copy

[[image:Keyadelic 5381-3.jpg|350px]]

Key cutting is quite quick once the bits are assembled together. It requires precise grinding, needing decent eyesight. DIY key copies do have a failure rate.

This article deals with copying keys for night latches (eg by Yale) and Eurolocks. The principles are the same for 2,3 & 5 lever deadlocks too.

=3D=3DAnatomy=3D=3D [[image:Key diagram 5379-4.jpg|350px]]

;Tip : ;Blade :Longitudinal grooves determine whether the key can enter the lock ;Bow :The handle ;Landings :The lock's pins rest on these when the key is inserted. Their position determines whether the key can turn ;Projections :Projections between landings are an artifact of punched key cutting. They make keys operate much less smoothly, and can be removed for better operation. ;Shoulder :This determines how deep the blade goes into the lock. Landings must be in the right place relative to the shoulder, not relative to the tip

=3D=3DBlank=3D=3D Key blanks can be bought online from 3rd party sellers or lock manufacturers.

=3D=3DClamp=3D=3D [[image:Keys clamped 5378-3.jpg|right|200px]]

Clamp the 2 keys, original and blank, together firmly. A mole grip works well. Align the key shoulders accurately, ensuring both keys are exactly parallel. Don't worry about the key tip positions, which sometimes don't align (copied keys can be longer or very slightly shorter, and its often not a problem.)

Mark the original, eg with a big black marker, its too easy to end up grinding the wrong key otherwise, then you've got no working keys and need a new lock. Its best to mark the original permanently so you can copy from it. Copies of copies aren't very reliable.

=3D=3DCut=3D=3D [[image:Key depointed 5376-2.jpg|right|250px]]

A die grinder with a small carbide bit, or a rat's tail file can be used. Cut it down accurately to match the original. A few strokes of a file at 45 degrees over each edge then removes any sharp edges and swarf.

Before inserting the key, check the sloped sections between the pin landings are all suitably sloped. It only takes one little bit of one of these slopes with much too steep an angle for the key to refuse to ever come out again.

Removing any projections between the key landings makes a key work much more smoothly. The picture above/right shows the same key, one with these points, the other with them removed.

=3D=3DSee Also=3D=3D

• [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Article Index]]

• [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]

• [[Replace a lock cylinder]]

• [[Replace a eurolock cylinder]]

[[Category:Basics]] [[Category:Doors]] [[Category:Security]]

[NT]

the piccies make it all clearer

NT

[Graham.]

When I was growing up there was a hardware shop opposite that did cylin

[NT]

Article now finished... unless you intended to say more.

[Graham.]

Got cut off mid flow, I was making a comment about blanks, I'll try again.

When I was growing up there was a hardware shop opposite that did cylinder keys and they had a board on the wall with a selection of dummy locks. You inserted the original key into each, in turn, until you found the one that fitted, and that told you the correct blank profile to use. The most common profile was called "1A" and it was often embossed on the blank key.

These days most of the non specialist keys seem to be of the same profile, and can be inserted into most cylinders.

[John Rumm]

Would key cutting be a better title?