Specialist Wood glue

[Arthur2]

I've only over used PVA types. Is there a specialist wood glue that really kicks ass?

Thanks.

Arthur

[Arthur2]

I should add...I want a 'open the tube/bottle and pour'..not something that requires mixing.

[Bob Minchin]

In what way do you want it to be special? By definition a specialist glue can't 'kick ass' for all jobs.

Bob

[dom]

Polyurethane, cascamite, epoxy - all better than pva - all require more than "open and pour".

[Arthur2]

I am making some jigs or fixtures for clamping to wood for router table work. So these pieces will be frequently clamped and handled. So I want them dead solid.

Arthur

[Steve Walker]

PU adhesive is pretty simple, cheap & strong, as long as the pieces are well-clamped.

[Bob Minchin]

PVA & screws will take a lot of beating but you could try polyurethane. You will need to apply to one surface and dampen the other with water. Clamping and or screwing together is essential as the glue will force the joint open during the cure. it will also turn your hands black for several days unless you use gloves.

Bob

[John Rumm]

In recent testing by Fine Woodworking magazine, PU glue did not do as well as expected. In most cases decent alphatic resin PVAs (Titebond for example) beat it.

[robgraham]

And it's a pain to clear up - none of the nice and easy scrape off the PVA or wipe off with a damp bit of bog roll. PU is useful if the joints aren't all that tight but is a pain where it leaks out of the joint.

Rob

[Bruce]

Yes, it is called Cascamite.

Thanks.

You're welcome.

[Harry Bloomfield]

Arthur2 formulated on Sunday :

Cascamite seems to be the best and it seems to be absolutely waterproof.

[Bolted]

Aerolite 306 is better still, but ouch at a price.

[CJF]

Interested to see this is still available - my Dad used to swear by it for boat building, and used it for anything critical. He said that it had been developed during WWII for military wooden gliders, which makes it quite a "senior" product by now.

It's very strong - I've seen some failed joints made up with it - the failures were all within the timber, not the glue surfaces.

Charles F

[robgraham]

Come on guys - read the original posts :- "I should add...I want a 'open the tube/bottle and pour'..not something that requires mixing. "

Rob

[George]

If your wood joints are not up to using the normal white glue then you're doing soething wrong? I've glued joints and have had a bitch of a tie seperating them. Glue two boards together and if you can seperate them I bet its because the wood has splintered ie the glue is doing the job and its taking bits of the wood from one half to seperate them.

[George]

You want what my old school teacher termed "get the toffee melting" ie animal glue...that kicks arse.

[George]

As a Yank what wood glue they use...bet ya 8 out of 10 say...

[Bolted]

A D4 PVA is about as good as you'll get then, or a polyurethane.

[Paul Matthews]

Specialist for what? Being able to dismantle later? Waterproof? Flexible? High level of filling? Absolute strength?

[Bruce]

Is that the stuff that was left simmering in a glue pot over a flame in many workshops of yore? If so, it was an extremely strong glue, a by-product from animal rendering.

Probably outlawed by HSE by now. :-(