I had a look at the UK.DIY FAQs and there doesn't seem to be anything on drainage, particularly soil pipes and inspection chambers. Can anyone point me to anything useful? If not I'll try and describe my problem/query here.
Thanks Mike
Go for a description Mike, then we may be able to point you to a specific site that will help you more.
Have a look through the Osma site for the bits and pieces you'll need. Then you'll have a better idea on what to and not to use in this project.
OK, thanx. Its not really a problem, just finding out what to do.
We are moving kichen and bathroom, so the drains need rerouting. We've been let down by the guy who was doing the work (delay, delay, sorry, family problem, .... can't do :) so I thought sod it, I'll do it myself - I've now got a nice set of trenches and some exposed clayware soil pipe.
One part is the kitchen waste pipe, from the kitchen back wall to where it meets the existing drain. This goes 2-3m in one direction, turns 90 degrees, then 3-4m to the existing drain. Later, we may have an upstairs bathroom, in which case the soil pipe will drop to where the waste pipe leaves the kitchen. For this reason we are going to put in 110mm pipe so that we don't have to redo it again:)
The question is, how do I do the 90 degree bend. I've got the Hunters catalog and downloaded their specification docs (we're using PVC throughout) but I can't see an obvious fitting for the 90 degree bend, other than a full-size 5-to-1 inspection chamber, which seems a bit overkill. Also, the drop from the kitchen to the existing drain is only just enough, and the 5-to-1 has a 50mm (ish) drop between the pipe in and the pipe out, which I want to avoid if possible.
One possibility I though was to use a channel bend and build it into a brick/concrete chamber. This has the added advantage of being stronger - it's pretty close to where a vehicle wheel will go heading into the garage.
So, is there any online info on this and what the regulations are, or can someone point me at a how-to book that the (hopefully informed!) layman can follow?
Thanx Mike
Do you really need a chamber at the point where it turns through 90deg? Have you considered using a T junction instead, and bringing a pipe up from the "unused" leg of the T to a rodding eye? That would enable you to rod one section - either from the house to the right-angle or from the right-angle to the drain - depending on which way round you put the T. This should be ok provided you can rod the other leg from the other end. Is there a chamber at the point where your new pipe will join the existing drain? If so, you can rod that section from the chamber end.
At the end of the day, you will need to get this inspected and passed by your local BCO - so I suggest that you seek his advice at the outset.
Roger
Chambers are cheap, have expansion knock out holes for future use and will be easy to clear out any blockage. I would go chamber.
Pipes need to be 100mm or bigger
You need a rodding point and/or inspection chamber at every junction, and every change of direction.
The system needs to be moderately gas tight and laid in e.g. gravel lined trenches to ensure undue stress is not applied.
Overall it needs a fall of between 1:60 and 1:100 for adequate operation.
At some point it needs to be vented, to stop pressure build up.
Thats about it for undeground drainage.
Full details in appropiate building regs.
Thanx for the feedback. The Osma site has piccies of all their bits, I reckon what we need is a bottle gulley. The T-junction and rodding point idea was neat, but we'd need to rod both ways from the corner.
We've had the BCO guy round to OK starting the work so we know that the corner is basically OK.
Regards Mike
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