Hello,
We have a very bad creaking chipboard floor. I would like to replace it, two options:
1) Traditional floorboards, but I am worried that modern floorboards will warp and then creak, all softwood I ever have bought has warped!2) 22mm plywood, but this is not tounge n grooved, so two edges will not be supported between joists, will 22mm be thick enough to support heavy loads? Or will it sag over time?
Has anyone replaced a chipboard floor? If so any help most appreciated.
Thanks,
Graham
I would be hard pressed to put anymore screws in! It has been badly installed. It may even be the joists. So the whole thing has to come up. I'm just wondering if replacing it with something else would be better.
You could try screwing the boards down, but in my experience, I never came across a 'quiet' weyroc floor. Screw it down in one place, and it will squeak (or seem to squeal like banshee) in another place.
And will continue to do so. If you take that course, then if possible (to lessen the risk of warping [1]), store the flooring in the room that you are going to lay it for about a week or so - or if that's not possible, a room near it.
With 22mm plywood, that's the least of you worries. Assuming that you are going to use 2.44m x 1.22m sheets, simply make sure that you lay the boards with the 'long edges' on half the width of the joist and then nail (or screw) down the boards.
If you have problems, simply bang a few cleats on the side of, and flush with the top of the joists.
Yes, and usually with standard T&G boards.
[1] Most creaking T&G boards 'creak' because they are laid when still too wet (board moisture more than around 12% to 15%) - or not floor-cramped up properly before being fixed down, or improperly fixed 'traps' for access to pipes and cables.Cash
Thanks for the reply, you say
Does that mean there are bigger things to worry about with plywood?
Not in fixing Graham, but you may have in handling the stuff in confined spaces - but you can always cut it!
Where you may have some trouble, is if the ends of the floor joists are rotten - otherwise, it may be ideal for you, but make sure you buy plywood with a good face (something like birch) and don't go for the 'shuttering' quality stuff.
Cash
Thanks,
For plywood, what about where two sheets meet? Should I leave a tiny gap to stop any movement creaks, or use some of that glue they use in chipboard floors?
Personally I would butt them and screw them down - but remember, no matter what you do, as wood is a 'living' material it will always move and liable to sqeaking.
My bedroom flooring (T&G) usually 'stays quiet' for around 6 months after I've re-screwed them down during redecoration times.
Cash
Not necessary to use "Special cramps". You can lay the whole floor (apart from the last couple of boards against the wall) without using a set of 'pukka' floor cramp. simply lay the boards and using the last board (temporarily tacked down - and several wedges), push the whole lot up into a slight bow using the wedges - and then walk into the centre of the floor (thus pushing the boards flat and tight onto the joists, and bang a few nails in to hold 'em down.
Walk back to the board against the wedges, nail that board down, and then carry on with the rest. A damned sight cheap than buyingthe cramps for a single (or small) floor lay.
Nope, the main reason is the wood at the wrong moisture content. If it's laid 'wet' then all the cramping in the world won't stop the wood from shrinking during drying, causing loosening of the grip of the floor brad - and ultimately squeaking.
And even when laid and cramped at the right moisture content - it will start 'moving' and ultumately squeaking after a time.
Floor brads are still easily obtainable, but in my opinion - ring-shanked nails are far better for the job (a bit of a b*****d though when you want to take a board up to repair a pipe etc).
Cash
You can indeed get plywood in 8*2 t&g for flooring but it is eye-wateringly expensive compared to chipboard. If you want to lay proper flooring on top (that is secret-nailed) then plywood is essential. The only way to stop chipboard creaking is to glue all the joints and glue it to the joists before nailing. This is how all new houses are made because they use 22mm chipboard with 600 mm spacing of the joists (or composite beams more likely). The creaking is caused by a slight sagging of the flooring that allows the joints to come apart and rub. During very dry weather my chipboard flooring creaks far more than during damp weather.
If you ever need to get the floor up for plumbing or leccy repairs then a creaky floor is a good thing - you can lift parts of the floor more easily because no glue was used.
Andrew
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