I'm seriously thinking of buying a safe, but have no Idea on what's good
what's not etc...I don't really have too many places to bolt a safe into a
concrete floor other than the garage, so was thinking of an under floor
safe. Has any one bought one of these...any advice appreciated
My dad had a safe once. It was a small one built in to a wall upstairs I think.
When the house got burgled while they were away on holiday the burglars
couldn't open the safe but they destroyed everything it was attached to and
took the safe away to open it at their leisure. To add insult to injury they
stole the car to take the safe away in. Whether anything was actually in the
safe at the time I'm not sure. He didn't replace it. You might consider his
experience before making your own decision :)
Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
One's taste in music is the key that fits the lock of each individual person's
Might be a good idea to have a not-very-expensive,
not-very-well-hidden, not-very-well-attatched safe full of scrap lead,
and meanwhile continue to keep your valuables under the water tank
/wherever. You at least have the satisfaction of knowing that any
thieves have had a hernia and several hours bashing a safe to end up
with junk, rather than trashing the stuff you really care about....
as thieves will simply cause lots of damage forcing them open. Well
designed hidden compartments are a far better option.
There is often quite a bit of space behind modern wall mounted kitchen
cabinets too, well out of sight.
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
Go to a real locksmith, rather than one of the 'security centres' and talk
about it. You will get lots of good free advice from someone who can ask
questions and recommend something that suits your particular needs.
Safes are rated according to the value of cash or jewellery that an insurer
will be happy to cover if they are in the safe. The higher the rating, the
better (and more expensive) the safe. Underfloor 'safes' for wooden floors
are just hidden places to keep things and probably unrated. A good safe will
either be built-in or too heavy for a thief to take-away without specialist
lifting equipment. Sometimes, both.
However, be careful of the problem of consequent crime - a crime that would
not have happened but for the solution to another crime problem. If you are
at home when the house is burgled, there is an increased risk that you will
face personal violence to get the safe opened.
What are you putting in it, and how big does it need to be ?
150-200 quid at a real locksmith (Thornes on Old Market, Bristol) will
get you a strong good-sized box with a reliable key lock. Then find a
piece of concrete to bolt it to, and bolt it down from inside with
Rawlbolts or polyester resin glue-ins.
External hinges are a good sign - it indicates there's a bolt on each
side, which is stronger than an internal hinge.
Avoid combination locks. Unless you get a good one, they're a
nightmare for maintenance. They're also quite easily to manipulate
open, if you're buying cheapies.
Sentry are a joke. Just avoid them.
If you just want something for jewellery, look at the one or two brick
wallsafes from the likes of Screwfix. They're easier to hide than a
floorsafe, and a joist-mount floorsafe is either hard to access or
very obvious - and nearly always easy to rip out once discovered.
A friend of mine installed his gun-sfaes with his usual enthusiastic
over-engineering, then moved house. Getting them out again was fairly
spectacular, yet his original "layers of concrete / gripfill" approach
wouldn't even have resisted an untidy attack by crowbar. Just use a
few Rawlbolts from the the inside, set into good quality concrete.
If you happen across a suitable lock mechanism, a safe is fairly easy
to construct. You need plasma cutting kit and a competent welder, but
you can outsource this for less than some of the safe makers will
charge you for a lesser product. Worth looking at if you need
something extra-large, yet not explicitly insurance rated.
To be honest if the house burnt down and the safe was essentially
welded shut you'd probably not regret having to pay to have it opened
with a blowtorch or whatever.
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