I am in the process of decorating and laying a laminate floor, to avoid using beading to cover the expansion gap (tried it in another room but did not like the effect) I have removed the skirting board which will be painted before replacing over the laminate. Rather than nailing it back in position I am thinking of using one of the "no nails" type of adhesive, anybody had any experience using this method with skirting, it is quite hefty measuring 170 x 20mm.
Bazza
As long as the walls are straight it works very well. If, like mine, they are a bit wobbly you might need the odd nail here and there to hold it while the no-nails goes off.
Si
What about the poor sod (probably you) who needs to remove it at some time in the future, use screws and wall plugs.
No More Nails becomes No More Wall. I particularly like the ad which shows someone putting up a large bookcase with a ton of Unibond's no-nails variant. I can just imagine them deciding a couple of years later that they don't like it and ending up with a huge hole in the wall and a large plastering bill.
BTW, there's a low profile gap 'edging' that you can get to cover the expansion gap in laminate flooring. It looks way neater than the ugly quadrant beading. It's essentially an 'L' shape in the material. The bottom of the 'L' drops into the expansion gap and is glued to the skirting (hey! no more nails!) and the upright part lies flat over the remainder of the expansion gap and onto the floor surface. The floor is free to move under the edging. Cant remember the name but I fitted it to a bedroom and it looks very unobtrusive.
Thanks for your replies, slight change of tack? lol, having removed the skirting about 50% has split, big flat iron nails, lots of them, oh well it does look original and as the house was built in 1937.....it is not plastered behind the skirting, just a mix of bricks and what looks like very dark breeze block. The old skirting was nailed on with wood spacers to bring it in line with the plaster, is this the best option or is it normal to plaster down to the floorboards? Looks like a trip to Wickes for their Torus MDF
Bazza
To do what?
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I have no plans to remove the skirting I've put on my walls. This might change, of course, but it'll be no worse to remove than the 4" cut nails someone put the picture rails up with sixty years ago.
Si
To check if it's been nailed or no-nailed of course. :)
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The same as the OP has just done? :-)
... which is why I suggested screws and wall plugs.
Then no one will know where the screws are and will end up ripping it off anyway.
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I find it works provided you can force it onto the wall - I use lightweight props normally used for holding plasterboard up to the ceiling.
I like no nails when replacing skirting using laminate. Buy a trad pack of the stuff from B&Q - it's cheaper. A word of warning - as i dries it will pull the skirting (or anything else - eg. dado rail) int every slight dip in the wall horizontally resulting in bendy skirtin instead of dead straight. This will look awful. As soon as you fit i to the wall, pack out any larger gaps between the skirting & wall wit anything that won't compress to stop it being pulled in at thes points. Card is better than nothing, but pieces of self adhesive viny floor tiles cut into little rectangles are great (go to Poundland because you can stick 'em together to build up the depth plus th sticky side ensures they dont just drop down the gap. Push them dow just below the top of the skirting or use a stanley knife to trim of the excess flush. Wait at least 24 hours for the no nails to go off then seal along the top with your decorators caulk. No-one will eve know & you'll have nice straight skirting. Screw skirting when usin carpet - the pressure of the carpet tucked in can force your skirtin off the wall over time otherwise. Use car body filler to fill the hole
- cheaper than woodfiller & easier to sand
-- Pufter
Thanks for the adhesive shrinkage tip, the original skirting was not plastered behind but fixed using 10mm wood spacers at the points where it was nailed to bring it flush with the plaster,this would result in a nice wavy effect!!! needless to say removing the skirting resulted in a lot of split wood(nails where big buggers when it was built in ,37) which means i will have to fit all new as i cannot get the original design, prob MDF, does this bend as much as wood?. I think the best way may be to plaster down to floor level leaving a
20mm gap at the bottom to conceal the sky/Ethernet/telephone/tv cables which have been tacked onto the skirting over the last 10 yearsBazza
more!
Thats a tricky plastering job. I ended up smashing off the plaster up to the height of the top of my new skirting and packing around the back of the skirting by drilling and plugging the wall and then screws can be adjusted to get the perfect positioning to make the mitres meet correctly. YOur hardest job will be getting the mirtres looking pro., not what glue / screws you use.
Mmark d wrote: ... snipped
That's because you should be using scribed joints rather than mitres.
Dave
You can get the original design. Clean a short sample of your original, and take it to a timber merchant such as Jewson who have a mill. They will copy it for you for a reasonable charge.
Working on building sites, I notice that the some if not all of the chippy's use Gripfill or similar as well as a nail gun to fix their skirtings(and anything else come to that)! Neither do they seem to scribe the mitres as most of the second fix "timber" is MDF and not as prone to shrinkage as real wood. Now I know that a lot of builders still use proper wood but not in many of the mass produced houses of lower value. My own lounge/hall/dining room skirtings are all adhered to the walls nor have been the mitres been scribed and all are still as tight as the day they were fitted. People may shout and say that you should do it this way or that because that is the way it's always been done but you should also think why. If modern materials are much more stable than timber and don't move what's the point in scribing to compensate for movement that won't happen?
Grumble
A scribed joint is a mitre! Plus plenty of rooms have external mitres which can be tricky to match up.
I'd always believed that scribing was where the profile of one half was transferred onto the other whereas a mitre was when the internal joint angle was halved - but I accept that I have occasionally been wrong. It sounds as if you're doing the right thing even if we have a terminology difference :)
Dave
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