I've had an idea. I'm a bit clueless with DIY. I want to put up a roller blind, here are some photos - sensible?

[shane.london]

Hi

Here are some photos of my window:

have NEVER done any DIY before. I'm 19. First year at uni. Want to learn to do things for myself

I did some research:

Help on installing roller Blinds - PDF file on :

decided on a suitable Roller Blind: - if you can spare a few mins, please help me out:

Q. Is it sensible for me to put up a roller blind? (I want to block out light mainly)

Q. I need to purchase or borrow a drill (cordless drill? Hammer drill?) I've seen on in Argos that has 'laser' guidance - seems like a good idea for idiots such as myself (so I don't drill into the wrong place)

Q. What is the best position for me to put the blind up? (I dont need it to 'look pretty'. I just want it to block out light)

Should I just hire someone to do it for me? ( I wish I could afford to!) (I rent so want to do it fairly discreetly. I can always remove the blind when I leave so the landlord need never know)

[Adrian C]

Why not ask help from another student?

-- Adrian C

[Stuart Noble]

I'd be looking for a pair of ready made blackout curtains instead. You should be able to use the existing hooks. Doesn't matter if they're too long or wide. You could even fix them to the old curtains perhaps. It'll probably be a bit of a fiddle to fit a blind with the setup you've got there. Either you put it inside the window, cut it to size, and fix the brackets to the sides, or (easier), fix them to the wall either side of the opening so you don't need to cut the blind. Bear in mind that you never know what you're going to find round windows when it comes to drilling. Could be solid concrete or hollow plaster. Go for the curtains if you can. There will be better projects to cut your teeth on.

[Stuart]

It's perfectly sensible to put up a roller blind but if you want to keep the light out you need to make sure it is made of material that DOES keep the light out . It has a name but I can't recall....yes I can ..Blackout Material .Then you need to check the measurements ( width and drop) considering whether the brackets are going on each side of the recess or above the recess( that might not make the blind width any different) When you get the blind fit the rollers and then the blind .Easy -Peasy . That tilting window might not be able to be opened after you fit it though . Blinds do not keep the heat in or the cold out .Heavy curtains are better for that and they can also keep the light out ,especially if lined as well.

Some more hints here .

check the other results here . someone else has said engage with another student to help.Mature females are probably best at this sort of stuff.

Stuart .

[meow2222]

why not? If its what you want, go for it.

The question is whats the wall made of above the window where you'll drill. It looks from the first pic like a sloping ceiling, in which case its probably weak hollow PlasterBoard. Tap it, does it sounds solid or hollow? If it is PB you can probably drill it with a toothbrush, though a drill of absolutely any kind will be quicker. Actually tbh for 3 or 4 PB holes it'd be quicker to just use a screwdriver than find a drill.

If it is hollow PB you'll need to use toggle fixings. If its solid you can use wallplugs and screws.

No, you can see the drill bit no problem. Laser on drill =3D completely pointless.

where you want it. To keep out light it'll need to hang close against the wall, not spaced away from it.

god no. Dont even think about it.

a bit of filler (=A31) and a knife to smooth it down with will disappear the holes when you go, and the old curtain & rail will need to go back up

NT

[Alf]

> I decided on a suitable Roller Blind:

>>> PLEASE - if you can spare a few mins, please help me out:

I have to ask why you are even attending a university - how did you get there. At 19 if you can't do things for yourself already then there is no hope if you're realistic about it. Is this post for one of your psychology studies? Post a stupid question, see who responds and then analyse the results? Seen it all before, they all appear at the same time each year together with the "help me to design" requests.

[Clive George]

Stop being such a tedious miseryguts.

He's made the first critical step, which is admitting he doesn't know and needs to ask somebody.

For the OP : get hold of a copy of a decent DIY book - IIRC the Collins one is quite good. A library may well have one.

clive

[meow2222]

not as good as uk.d-i-y :)

For the total newb, the readers digest one is also a fair start, though you can probably ignore the bit about repairing turntable idler wheels on 1950s & 60s decks.

NT

[Owain]

But tends to have better pictures.

I've actually got a problem with my turntable, if it wasn't direct driver computer controlled linear tracking, I'd suspect the idler wheel was slipping.

Owain

[shane.london]

>

>

Dude, I like chicks and beer. I've got the rest of my life to figure this stuff out.

[meow2222]

sticking central bearing? dodgy speed control pot?

NT

[Guy King]

The message from [e-mail] contains these words:

So, find a girl who can fix the problem, and give her loads of beer.

[shane.london]

(Thanks for the advice by the way)

Yes - when i tap it , it sounds hollow (must be plasterboard) (so no drill needed)

unscrewing the existing curtain rails - will they already have toggle fixings? could I do damage by unscrewing them? Please see this photo:

looked in argos for 'toggle fixings' - do I need to use them to screw into plasterboard (will it damage it otherwise) (If I can't buy it in John Lewis/Selfridges etc. I'll obv need go to Homebase or B&Q)

How about within the window recess (as far away from the glass as possible - ie. next to the inside wall). I guess that would be difficult/awkward to fit - due to confined space. But it would mean I wouldn't have to remove the existing curtain rail (& curtains)

^ is the above paragraph a really dumb idea?

Thanks again the help. I really appreciate it.

[shane.london]

product I want is for a window width 118cm. It's around 40 (uk pounds) from John Lewis.

I can't get to an Ikea (easily - no car). Would I save a lot by going? Can't find blinds on the ikea website.

[Stuart Noble]

A drill is still needed! You must have a perfect hole of exactly the right diameter to take the plasterboard fixing. This is normally 10mm so you'll have to fill and re-paint the holes when you come to leave.

Depends how much space there is behind the plasterboard. Toggles need more than the plastic plugs with wings.

It's all really dumb if you ask me. Use curtains and save yourself a lot of (unpredictable) hassle

[meow2222]

who knows. There are several types of hollow wall fixings.

not really, but you may be left with holes you cant screw back into

yes, argos isnt the place for them. If you screw straight into the PB without toggles or something similar, the screws will just pull straight out, leaving holes behind.

if you want. wouldnt get as good light blocking tho

If youre only there temporarily, if you leave the existing rail up its one less job now & one less later.

If you put the blind in the recess you'll need a dark colour, pref black, to cut the light down. as youll have a gap at each side.

NT

[meow2222]

toggles dont care about that. some other fixings do. Just dont make the hole bigger than you need.

NT

[meow2222]

you should be able to find something much cheaper somewhere. I vaguely remember around the =A312 mark in catalogues a few years back, could be wrong tho.

NT

[meow2222]

you should be able to find something much cheaper somewhere. I vaguely remember around the =A312 mark in catalogues a few years back, could be wrong tho.

oh, dont forget screws, fixings that come with things are usually inadequate

NT

[John Laird]

Choose a store - Textiles and Rugs, Curtains and Blinds, Blinds. Or search for Tupplur. At =A313.99, you will save a bit ;-) Alternatively hike along to your nearest Argos and you should find something around =A315.

Of course, spending less than =A3100 on tools is the real challenge...

If your windows are wooden, it might be a lot easier to attach the blind to the frame, or even the top of the window itself. You can make a starter hole in softwood with a small awl which is just a sharp pointy piece of metal (like a compass point). The one I use came with a set of screwdrivers (one handle and interchangeable ends sort of thing) - it's one of the most useful tools I own. This way, no drill is required ! A spot of white filler will cover up the evidence when you leave...

Otherwise, you are going to have to drill into the wall or "ceiling". As it's not your place, I'd be wary of this, especially if you've not done any diy before.

Your room's untidy !

--=20 "Excuse me for butting in, but I'm interrupt-driven."