How to fix down ridiculous design WC pan

I'm trying to fix down a new WC pan to a wooden floor.

Normally, one would screw straight down (or at a slight angle with long screws) into the floorboards to hold the thing steady.

However, the design of this one is such that I can only get a screw in horzintally (ie parallel to the floor) since the holes are in the sides of the pan.

It came with no special fixing kit and I've managed to get the bidet fixed by making a wooden bracket but cannot do the same with the WC pan due to the bend itself.

Is there a kit I can buy or any other tips you have for getting this damn thing to fix. I'm at my wits end with it.

Natually, I have tried silicon round the base but this is not ideal.

Thanks. Rob

Reply to
Kalico
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Any chance of some pictures?

Reply to
Rob Morley

I don't have a camera handy, but if you go here

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will see a standard toilet pan which can be screwed *down* the floor. It is an Ideal but mine is Lecico (who have no suggestions, nicely).

The one I have is like this

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has holes which can only be screwed into horizontally.

Common sense would suggest a block of wood screwed to the floor then screw into that, but for the WC pan the u-bend is in the way, so no joy.

If I could, I would take the thing and sling it in a skip. Classic form over function. Designed to look nice and yet rubbish to work with. Like modern cars and god knows what else.

Hehe! Rant, Rant!

Any suggestions? Rob

Reply to
Kalico

Mines like that. IT came with a pair of screws to screw vertically down into the floor, then another couple of bolts to screw into the 2 in the floor.

I haven't installed them... yet.

The cistern is supposed to be bolted to the wall too - it's a close coupled thing. My fear is that if I bolt everythign together then the bit the cistern sits on (and is bolted to) might just crack one day...

(At least thats what I'm telling swimbo!!!)

Gordon

Reply to
Gordon Henderson

Mine came with a steel bracket (U shaped) the legs of the U being approx 2 ins high having loose captive nuts towards the top to take special machine screws which are screwed in through the horisontal holes in the toilet pan. The bottom of the U was the same width as the internal dimenson between the horisontal holes in the pan. The steel bracket is screwed down to the wooden floor according to the instuctions and template that came with it. I can copy the instuctions which has a picture of bracket and email it to you if it helps. Regards Don

Reply to
Don

Howzabout a couple of blocks of wood screwed to the floor so that you can then screw horizontally into them?

Dave

Reply to
Dave

Is the base hollow? If so, you could fit a block of wood to the floor then secure the pan to the wood with the "horizontal" screws.

Just a thought.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Almost certainly there should be a bracket(s) with it - you need to phone your supplier...

Reply to
isthatthetime

He did only say it twice so I suppose we can forgive you. There's no room for the wood.

MBQ

Reply to
manatbandq

Mine came with floor mounted brackets for the horizontal screws to go into. Sounds like you are missing them.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I thought that was what you meant, but I wasn't sure.

Fix screw eyes into the floor, ram a bit of dowel through the eyes and screw into that. If there isn't room for that you'll need a couple of steel angle brackets with some sort of captive nut arrangement. In either case silicone would be a worthwhile addition.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Your definately missing a few bits, and I mean that in the nicest way

-- Nick H

Reply to
Nick H

It should have come with some plastic right angle brackets. You screw these to the floor first, and then fix through the side of the pan into the brackets.

Talk to the supplier if they are missing.

Reply to
John Rumm

screw in

ideal.

Cut a piece of wood to fit inside the plinth of the loo, fix it to the floor and screw into that.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Mine came with two screws with a bit stuck on top to screw into - must have moved them about 10 times when trying to fit the pan. :-(

Mark S.

Reply to
Mark S.

Oh epoxy the bloody thing to the floor, or use car body filler.

When was the last time you wanted to remove a toilet to sell on or use somewhere else?

When was the last time you removed a toilet to refloor and needed it intact to put back?

When was the last time you don't redo the floor when you replaced a toilet.

All this emphaisis on screws and undoable fixings!

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Never

2 Months ago but only to gain access to the back of a vanity unit.

Well!!!!!, The fellow seems to have been sold a pan without the appropriate bits to fix it, mind you, despite all the advice he received he hasn't come back to us with the sequel to the minor drama, maybe he found the extra bits in the bottom of the box unless he threw them away of course. :-( Regards Don

Reply to
Don

On Sun, 18 Dec 2005 10:52:46 -0000, "Don" wrote: [snip]

Hi Don and everyone else.

First, thanks for all your help and suggestions. I have been away from the PC so couldn't get online to let you know what has happened.

It turns out that there is a thing called a Fischer fixing kit which is just the job. Two angled plastic brackets that screw into the floor then can be screwed into with the supplied bolts/screws. Some manufacturers call them S-fixing kits but either way there is a dedicated solution.

My call the to the local supplier who sold me the toilet (and the bloody bidet) proved fruitless. They said they called the manufacturer who said that you screw a piece of wood to the floor then fix to that.

Call me sceptical, but I called the manufacturer myself and spoke to a really helpful girl who transferred a fixing kit from her desk drawer to a Jiffy bag with my address on it as we spoke. Hoorary!

Now my only decision is whether to go back to our merchant and kick up a big fuss about spending the best part of a day tearing my hair out with the pan and being fobbed off with bad knowledge and misinformation. Not sure about that since its only a small town here and things could come back to bite me when I next need help, but I am really pissed off about wasting the time.

Thanks again though. Make sure you ask for the kit if you ever order one of these style of pans.

Rob

Reply to
Kalico

Good outcome. I've always found that I've had good service from plumbing and heating manufacturers, often with small pieces being sent free of charge.

On my positive list for doing this are:

- Mira

- Aqualisa

- Grundfos

- Honeywell

- Ideal

- Stuart Turner

I really hate bad service, and if it involves laziness or lying on the part of the supplier especially if time is wasted, then I do look for something to be done.

In the case of faulty goods, I will remind and pursue the supplier because the contract is with them, and typically I will look for some form of recompense as well.

However, this is more of a "bits missing, can't be bothered, fob him off with a story" scenario. I think that you have to pick your battles. With this one, I think I'd identify the manager and explain what happened. Ask him to give you a part refund on what you paid. If that comes back in the form of an agreed better price on a future purchase then that may be a sensible solution. You could escalate it if you feel particularly agrieved, but also have to think about return on investment of additional time.

Reply to
Andy Hall

Some good points there. Thanks for that.

Rob

Reply to
Kalico

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