Funnel drill

If I had a funnel shaped drill then I could drill round holes in my upstairs floorboards the holes being wider at the top than the bottom then I could blow insulation granules down the holes and then put the round plugs back in the floorboards and my feet wouldnt be so cold next winter!

Has anyone invented one yet?

[g]
Reply to
george [dicegeorge]
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In message , "george [dicegeorge]" writes

Like a (google for) stepped drill bit without the steps?

I know CPC sell them, I have a set, just can't remember what they are called

Reply to
geoff

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Reply to
dom

In message , "george [dicegeorge]" writes

Found it

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Reply to
geoff

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maybe?

Reply to
dennis

Depends what you mean by insulation granules. If you mean expanded polystyrene beads then these are a serious hazzard and will probably cost you a fortune to have removed should you ever come to sell the house. And by 'blown in' do you mean blow them in yourself or get a company in? - if it's the latter then they probably wouldn't entertain the idea, or charge you a fortune.

Why are the floorboards so cold? - surely the heat from downstairs must travel through the ceilings into the bedrooms? - if they are as cold as you say, the joist ends are probably not pointed around, meaning that there's cold air from the cavity whistling around the void - yet another reason to get the cavity filled with insulation, and probably cheaper than your idea.

Reply to
Phil L

It's a funnel shaped drill, which will make funnel shaped holes, but if George is expecting funnel shaped plugs to put back in the holes, he might be disappointed.

Reply to
Andy Burns

S'wot he asked for "the holes being wider at the top than the bottom"

Reply to
geoff

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Wouldn't it be easier to drill normal parallel sided holes and stick a large plastic funnel in to them?

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Nearest thing is this:

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, but it seems to use metal plates to make good rather than the removed wood.

It's fairly obviously impossible to have a circular tool that drills "funnel shaped" holes and leaves an intact plug. To do that you'd need something like an angled jigsaw blade running round a circular guide.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Verdon

An infinitely thin blade

Reply to
geoff

The old router, stepped bit and stepped, plastic circular thingy? Rout out a circle, flip it over drop it into the plastic ring and drop the ring into the original hole - can't remember what it's called though.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

thanks. [g]

Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

Downstairs isnt heated in winter, (specially as it has floorboards missing,) I want to have a warm room upstairs, hence insulating the air gap between the floorboards and the plaster below it would make the floor warmer.

[g]
Reply to
george [dicegeorge]
1 - Lift a floorboard and see if you feel a draught. If the draught is perfectly in time with the wind, you may have a boarded up upstairs chimney venting to the underfloor. This is usually obvious because the floorboards are cupped severely from elevated underfloor humidity. If the draught is just "general", your joists are not pointed properly into a cavity wall, as mentioned.

2 - Buy some Tredaire Dreamwalk 11mm. It has a Tog rating of 3, most crumb rubber or foamed-rubber are about

1-1.5. The difference is noticeable.

3 - Insulate the loft & cavity Same goes for checking any window draughts or such like, also around any CW tank overflow pipes long forgotten or stuffed up with foam which has now rotted away.

4 - Heat the downstairs to about 10-11oC. If you do not, any fabrics, rubber underlay, wood etc, will not tend to like the environment much.

Heat loss depends on temperature delta.

- Your floor temperature will be quite low (15oC), but so is temperature of the unheated room below (6oC) - so the temperature delta is just 9oC.

- For comparison ceiling plasterboard above a heated room can have a temperature delta of 25oC thus benefits much more greatly from insulation.

For foot comfort a higher Tog underlay helps considerably to surface touch.

Stick some hardboard over the downstairs missing hardboards re draughts. If it is truly unheated I would stick some form of heating down there to get it to 10oC. Upstairs consider a thick rug with another layer of Tredaire underlay under that if a living area (no thicker than some "must have been a polar bear" sheepskin rugs).

The only tool which will cut a hole which you can plug are the circular-saw/router access panel tools. They are about =A320-30, use plastic plugs a bit like office-desk cable-entry plugs. The problem is the insulation isn't going to do much. If you ever do heat the downstairs the heat lost upstairs is very beneficial (enough to keep the upstairs at 14oC).

Reply to
js.b1

A glory hole ...

Reply to
geoff

There is a setup using a round steel ring and a cutout template. The ring fits in and the plug slits in.An instant access hole. Neat.

Why do you want insulation in the internal floors?

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

geoff formulated on Sunday :

Cone cutter?

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

The thinner the better, obviously, but I doubt George is going to worry about a drop of a couple of millimeters as his funnel-shaped plug sits into its hole.

Pete

Reply to
Pete Verdon

I believe that someone has invented thicker carpets. ;-)

Reply to
mick

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