fixing metal back box in stud wall

Hello,

What is the best way to fit a metal back box to a stud wall? I know I could use a dry lining box, but a metal box screwed in, just seems more secure imho.

Should the box have pre-drilled holes for screws to go through or do I have to drill my own? The box I have got has one hole per side but they are on the front edge, so they would align with the plasterboard rather than a noggin and they seem too wide for screws.

Thanks Stephen.

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Use a dry lining box, you are making a simple job much more complicated try ing to fix a metal box in place. It is easy enough when the studding is exp osed but a whole different and complicated process in an existing wall. Wha t makes you think a dry lining box is any less secure, I have seen metal bo xes pulled out of plastered walls easier than a dry lining box. Most metal boxes I have seen in block walls have been secured by a single clout nail a nd relying on the subsequent plaster to hold them in place.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

Use a dry lining box. It's simple, just cut the hole to the right dimensions tightly with a pad saw and clip the box in. When the accessory screws are tightened the plasterboard is clamped between the tabs and the face of the box and accessory.

A metal box will need screwing at the sides to a piece of studwork timber. You would also need a piece of wood the other side and to screw through the plasterboard into the wood to hold it in place.

Philip

Reply to
philipuk

Fit a noggin between the studs at the required height of box from floor and at the correct depth so that front edge of box is flush or only just behind the *finished* face of the plasterboard and/or skim. Fitting a nggin before the wall is boarded out is easy afterwards use a drylinging box.

Sides generaly don't have holes but the back should, to take screws/nails into noggin or brick/block.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Different boxes have different holes in; I've used holes in the left / right / bottom sides to hold back boxes in skirting board. I think they were wickes boxes.

Owain

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

Also looks neater. You can see a drylining box is there.

What I do is cut a couple of battens from something like 25 x 12mm just a bit longer than the sides. If you're going to decorate, fix them to the back of the plasterboard with screws through the plasterboard, and make good over the heads. Use screws that don't rust. If you don't want to decorate, you can glue them in place. Clamp with a G clamp until set.

Drill holes top and bottom in the sides of the box lining up with the centre of the batten, and screw to the batten. Gives as strong a fixing as the plasterboard. Sounds a bit of a fiddle - but if you've got lots to do drill all the holes in the boxes in one session, and cut the required number of battens too.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

There new ones with a much reduced external rim. You'd be pushed to see any differnce between them and a metal rear box.

Reply to
charles

If you must go down this path then I would suggest that in addition to two battens each side of the cut-out (glued) a batten across the back would then allow you to use the existing fixing holes and the whole assembly will be clamped tight with the two accessory fixing screws. Just need to get the right thickness of side battens to clear rhe back of the box. However, I prefer a drylining box - a suitable socket will hide any rim.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Ultra slim metal faced accessories are the fashion these days, with the plate only a couple of mm thick. Unless the dry lining box is chased into the plasterboard in some way, it's bound to be visible.

I do realise it won't matter for a cheap and cheerful job - but if DIYing for the best possible one, it may.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

What some so called pros do when time is money doesn't much matter on a DIY group, where most will (hopefully) take pride in what they do.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Sanity check, this *is* plasterboard and not lath and plaster?

If the former, dry lining. If the latter, you need to mount it over a stud (or noggin) in a suitable position to provide access for the cable through the standard holes. You *may* need to drill new screw holes, for example if fixing at one end of a double box you might want suitable screw holes near the top and the bottom.

Reply to
newshound

and these new ones I mentioned are specifically designed for these fittings.

Reply to
charles

Not by me:-)

Some flat plate accessories spec that the backbox must be 5mm below the plaster line to allow the faceplates to fit. Well you cannot do that with a dry liner back box.

Have I ever mentioned that I believe dry liner boxes are the work of the devil?

Reply to
ARW

You mentioned them but you did not name them.

Reply to
ARW

wot 'e said.

Reply to
Andy Burns

They don't all have a visible lip.

Reply to
Andy Burns

OK: Sold by TLC simply as "Dry Lining Boxes for Flat Plate Accessories"

On the back of one I have, it says DETA

Reply to
charles

ok. now tell the op how to fit the metal backbox and what would make it more secure than the plastic one

steve

Reply to
steve.n

Then there's people like me who have at times found the various holes in metal back boxes very convenient for injecting expanding foam to lock the box nicely into place :)

Reply to
Robin

Have done. Earlier in the thread. It's how I've done it for ages.

I can spot a dry lining box at 100 yards and hate them.

But can understand they make things easier for those who don't care.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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