RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final wiring to the oven itself. This will be surface mounted on an area of wall where there is no plasterboard. Is there any problem surface mounting a metal back box here (it will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing unit)? Or should I use a plastic "surface mount" box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and get one ! Thanks, Simon.
oven itself.
visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing unit)?
have to go out and get one !
As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not seem to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it being actually "wrong" though as long as its properly earthed - it will still offer adequate IP protection (assuming you are not using one with half the knockouts missing!).
to the oven itself.
ly be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing= unit)?
I'll have to go out and get one !
Knockouts are the issue, if they let a small kids finger in they're no good, and the metal boxes do tend to have holes large enough to do so. So watch how you get the cable into the box.
NT
Even if there are no other knockouts missing I would use a stuffing gland and not a grommet for the cable entry.
In the real world using a surface mounted metal backbox is no different than using a metal clad surface mounted socket or switch.
or dip into the wall behind it and come in the back...
You could, but I am a lazy bastard and that sounds like too much work when I have a van full of stuffing grommets.
I forgot the DIY option:-(
the oven itself.
visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing unit)?
have to go out and get one !
The nice thing about a cooker socket with a plug connection is that you can easily isolate the rest of the wiring and still have a plug socket to use.
Well in the end I got a plastic box as I had to go out anyway. I got a 30mm= and 40mm box (MK seem to not do 25 / 32 / 47 sizes for the surface mount b= oxes), and I destroyed the 30mm one trying to remove the snap-outs and then= some, to make a cable entry wide enough for 6mm cable. So I ended up using the 40mm box with the wide enough snap-outs and dug it = into the wall a bit. It would have been just as simple and cheaper to sink = the metal box ! Oh well, things go that way sometimes ... Simon.
Remove cooker from kitchen, wheel arc welder in to spalce now vacated by cooker removal. Plug in.
Then you have a spare socket for the angle grinder and lots of space to store duct tape.
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