Hello,
I need to replace the rotten wooden fasicas on my brick walled carport. What is best to use for this? Is timber sold as barge board treated or is it just that any wood of a certain size is called barge board? Would "any old wood" do, provided it was painted?
I had a quick google and from what I could see, a barge board is a fascia on a gable end. Is that what you think? Are they pretty much two names for the same thing?
Thanks, Stephen.
I'm considering cedar, or a modern "cedar-alike" for my gutter boards. Needs no treatment and lasts for ages. I had a price from the local "proper" wood merchants and it was comparable with uPVC mock wood finish (ie more than white, but not as dear as you'd think).
I would just use uPVC, unless there is a good reason not to. It will then last forever.
Me or the OP?
I was considering uPVC but I decided I want stuff I can fix to in ad-hoc positions, eg hooks for hanging plants, watering tubes for the same. Wood wins on this cound and such holes can also be made good again, unlike uPVC.
Bargeboard fits at the end of a gable on a pitched roof. A fascia board fit at the eave either on a pitched or flat roof. PAR timber is ok but you will have to paint every 5 years to keep it in good condition, PVC no maintenance but white does tend to show the dirt and needs cleaning regular. Try a mahogany finish PVC
I used plain pine. Started replacing facias about 20 years ago, and finished the last one last year. I also took down the first ones, cleaned with a sponge and detergent, and screwed back up. Still as good as when new, and didn't need repainting.
Bought the timber, separated the bundles, and left to dry for a couple of months. Discard any which go banana shaped (20 years ago, that happened to about 1/4 of them - now it happens to about
2/3rds of them in new bundles you buy).Cut to length and temporarily fit to check size. Take down down, treat with good anti-rot treatment, followed by aluminimum primer, gloss undercoats (all round), and gloss top coats (not backs). So far, the 20 year old ones are still as good as new when cleaned. I made some effort to get same solvent based dulux gloss for the most recent ones, which meant searching backs of shelves at the sockist to find the old high volatiles tins (although I doubt you will find anymore now).
However, just as important, make sure the rain water drains away correctly, without soaking the facias. I also fitted felt support trays and replaced the guttering as part of the task, and the 20 year cleaning included full disassembly and cleaning of the gutters and re-lubrication of the gutter seals. And the testing using the hose and real rain, to check for any leaks.
Roof of my extension, I used 6x1" treated softwood covered with an L- shaped PVC extrusion with a fancy ogee profile on the bottom corner. The hollow PVC fascias seemed a bit feeble from a structural point of view. You could fix things through the PCV into the timber if you wanted, but cannot patch like with timber or course. On this roof there is a largish overhang, and I'd fix into the back of the bargeboard for hanging baskets etc. if required. Simon.
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