Cable for oven question

[ss]

I will be taking out a cooker hob, it is wired in to an island in the middle of the kitchen, I am presuming for this hob it would be a normal rated plug socket. When I get the gas fitter to install the new cooker, gas hob but double elec oven (not unpacked yet) I assume I would require a higher rating for the double oven.

How would I check as to how the existing elec hob wiring is rated?

If it is rated correctly for the `new` elec oven then I can shift the elecs myself, as it is basically just resiting the socket, if it requires upgrading then I need to call in the electrician.

[Jonathan]

In my experience hobs are higher power rated than ovens, does the new cooker give you a rating?

jonathan

[ss]

Due to the chaos at the moment I havent unpacked the cooker to get hold of the instruction/installation manual hence enquiring how to identify. just trying to work ahead of any potential work requiring qualified trades V what I can do myself.

[Dave Liquorice]

Wouldn't like to bet on it. A 13A plug can only deliver just over

3kW. A single ring on a hob can be well over 2kW and you have four of them. A 10kW rating for a hob would not be excessive.

Bad assumption, ovens generaly have a lower rating than hobs, only two elements not four.

Look at the rating plate of the hob and check the cable size, I expect it will be 6mm2. Have google for nominal T&E cable dimensions

Donno what Prat P has to say on work in kitchens.

[Dave Liquorice]

Lame excuse you have access to the net, download the manual from the makers site or maybe they will have that information online as a page in the cookers description.

[John Rumm]

Unlikely - only a small double ring table top hob would be able to get enough power from a single plug connection.

Double ovens are probably also going to need wiring (single ones often come with a conventional plug) - however there is a very good chance the total load will be less than the current hob

Have a look at the cable feeding it (and if that is a rubbery feeling round flex, follow it back to the termination and look at the flat T&E going into that.

Measure carefully and compare to:

look for the circuit breaker/fuse marked cooker or hob in the CU. as see what rating that is.

[Andy Wade]

Just under, these days: 230 V * 13 A = 2990 VA :~)

It might be a gas hob, needing only a few VA for ignition - plug top or FCU with 3 A fuse being all that's needed. OTOH if it's electric then diversity (first 10 A plus 30% of the remainder) is applicable - even so, a separate 20 or 32 A final circuit will usually be required.

Yes but a typical double oven will need significantly more than 13 A and will require a separate circuit as above. One 32 A circuit is usually OK for a double oven and electric 4-ring hob, and a single isolator can be used if within 2 metres of both appliances. Larger appliances may require higher rated circuit(s).

A question like that suggests that the OP should be calling an electrician in any case.

Resiting a socket is installation work and, if in a kitchen, requires notification, strictly speaking.