I have a Worcester heatslave 9-24 combi boiler. There is a thermostat knob on the front of the boiler and a separate controller (horstman diadem?).
The timer on the controller is broken which is no great loss to me as i dont use it. I will replace it at some point though i suppose. I usually keep the HW switch on 24h and turn the CH on by putting the 'CH' switch on the controller from 'off' to '24h'. This method has been working fine for me so far... *BUT* i dont really think that the stat makes very much difference to the heat output of the CH system! I have TRVs on all rads and they are set to 5. The boiler is in a large cupboard (used to be a bed recess i think!) would it make a difference if i had a room thermostat? Or is there a better method for controlling the boiler and heat output that im missing?
Yes you want a room stat, turn up the trv full or replace wit lockshield in the zone where the stat is. Ther'll probably be a n volts connection shorted inside your boiler, take out the short an connect the common and call for heat from your roomstat to the tw terminals it bridged. Get a stat that works without mains. Most wil work with or without, the neutral in a stat is just for a preheate which predicts when the stat is going to soon reach temperature an switch off boiler early, this is supposed to level out the heatin demand but I doubt it's any benefit. The anti shortcycling controls i boilers are stated to make no difference in economy in governmen publications
They do increase longevity of the controls. Simple boilers mated to thermal stores/heat banks, go a long time without any attention, as the boiler only operates infrequently on one continuous long efficient burn. The controls and fans and pumps get a far easier life.
Also nuisance boiler cycling is irritating. Many years ago I fitted a timer on a relatives combi before controls became more sophisticated, to stop the short cycling. I set a timer to 5 mins and it worked a treat.
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That's a very good point, some electronic things last longer if left o continuously switching on and off is what wears them out. I am int valve audio equipment, though it is true that valves have a certai number of hours cathode coating and they're dead. It's been fairly wel established that if you leave your equipment on all the time the valve last longer than if you turn it on and off. It also sounds better whe left on
Hmm. The only piece of valve equipment I've got is a Quad AM tuner - and if left on would require new valves every couple of years. So I only switch it on when needed - which is rare these days, since pretty well all the old AM services are now available on DAB.
Well designed solid state electronics shouldn't be worried about being switched on and off. And things like pumps and fans will have a mechical life based on 'running' hours. Although regular use should help prevent any seizing.
Sorry to reiterate, your first paragraph makes a lot of common sense You also often advise about going for a boiler swap rather than repair This too can be valid advice. Though I try to fix most things I ofte regret the begining when I get to the end. An example just the othe day Worcester 240 playing up, found ex vessel ruptured, put in new one then auto air vent capooot, fitted new one, then o/h stat capoot, fitte new one, now pump suspect and heat ex badly scaled up. Before proceedin with last two I said to owner, it's up to you mate but now I think it' new boiler territory (his is 12 years old). I offered full refund o all work to date including parts and a reasonable price for a comb swap. I said honestly I don't want to invest any more labour in you boiler. In the evnt it's qtopped sounding like an aeroplane taking of and he's going to leave it running as it is for a while. I personall wouldn't spend another penny on it.
I know you have many enemies and sometimes have opposed me vehermently but that's only because from the few words I print here you can' possibly understand all my logic. I can see yours is valid in man cases, though I don't make a study of every dot and tittle you expres as some seem to.
It's true I prefer regular boilers and seperate controls, but I wor amongst all elements of our industry they all have validity. There i wide consumer choice. I am about trying to fulliy inform my customer so they can make the best decision with their resources at the time Surpisingly often this involves throwing in a cheap combi! Don't get m wrong though I wouldn't do it at home. I'd buy the best I could affor which is easy for me to service and part swap, I have my favourite mak for that, I can change anything in 15 minutes and nothing costs mor than £130.
If I wasn't so tired after all the work I do for others I'd fit thermal store and a condensing regular boiler at home. Since I am s busy and everything at home works without my attention I'll stick wit my Mexico and indirect open vent cylinder on Y plan, but one day it'l go to the knackers yard.
The best is a hybrid of internal immersed coil for low flows an preheat of the a plate heat exchanger, and a plate heat exchanger fo high flows.
When you have high flows the DHW plate pump cuts in, otherwise the coi is adequate. This saves on the DHW pump, which can cycle on-of everytime someone just opens the tap for a few seconds, which is quit common. A small bypass around the flow switch with an in-lin restrictor sets the flow rate for DHW pump switch on.
The hybrid also gives very high flowrates with the coil preheating th plate.
Another approach is have the coil for kitchen sink and basins and th plate for the high flows of bath and showers only, which can still b pre-heated by the coil
You should see what the know-it-alls think. A quick recovery coi cylinder can be downsized. This is common knowledge, yet th know-it-alls get out their school physics books and say it doesn't. N experience whatsoever, but boy they know-it-all. I directed them to th Albion web site. They knew more than Albion of course. Even Gledhil say the same.
"CondenCyl HE ?s high efficiency coil and its ability to heat only th water you require means that a smaller capacity cylinder can be used For example, a typical 120 litre cylinder to meet Part L requirement would reduce to 75 litres using a CondenCyl HE."
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know-it-alls thread:
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one thread one man was limited to space, and they convinced him t go 120 litre when even a 45 litre would have done it. Unbelievable. That is the problem with this mediam, the OPs don't know who i genuine
You should see what the know-it-alls think. A quick recovery coil cylinder can be downsized. This is common knowledge, yet the know-it-alls get out their school physics books and say it doesn't. No experience whatsoever, but boy they know-it-all. I directed them to the Albion web site. They knew more than Albion of course. Even Gledhill say the same.
"CondenCyl HE 's high efficiency coil and its ability to heat only the water you require means that a smaller capacity cylinder can be used. For example, a typical 120 litre cylinder to meet Part L requirements would reduce to 75 litres using a CondenCyl HE."
formatting link
know-it-alls thread:
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one thread one man was limited to space, and they convinced him to go 120 litre when even a 45 litre would have done it. Unbelievable. That is the problem with this mediam, the OPs don't know who is genuine.
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Perhaps you'd quote the actual flow rates in what amounts to a near instantaneous heating quick recovery coil in a storage cylinder if filling a decent sized bath? Rather than adverts? Because all you're talking about is a larger than normal 'thermal store' on a combi. Which is easily exhausted on those - as will a smaller than needed fast recovery storage cylinder.
You need to have some idea about physics. As if.
Hint. Makers of such things give all sorts of fancy names to things which aren't new or revolutionary to impress fools like you.
My God Mr Cranium is at it again! What is he on about? Babbling nonsense about combi's and thermal stores when quick recovery cylinders is the point. This would be good reading for a shrink. A whole diatribe could done on him.
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