re-ignite worcester 350 combi boiler

[p.mc]

Hi all...Have the same post on free uk diy home but someone suggested here.

I had the electric mains trip a few times and the combi boiler was on the same circuit (I know it probably shouldn't be) Anyhow the boiler isn't lit. All the right noises are made when the timer turns on and off etc but I can't figure out how to re-ignite the gas.

The below images show amongst others the lighting sequence, but I'm stuck on the "turn the gas service c*ck on" bit. (Don't know what it is referring too!) I also tried depressing the overheat switch but it wouldn't depress so I guess that was ok.

Maybe it's something else! Anyhow I'll see what advice is given..."Thanks for looking."

(Link to my photobucket slideshow album) double click images to enlarge or click "view as slideshow" upper left

Regards p.mc

[John Rumm]

From the description, it does not look like a permanent pilot light style boiler. It seems to suggest it will light itself as required assuming all the prerequisites are met.

This will be on the gas pipe where it enters the boiler. However, since I doubt you have manually got a screwdriver onto it and turned it off, its almost certainly still on.

What indicator lights are showing?

What is the pressure gauge reading?

When you turn the room stat so that it "clicks", does the green "demand" light come on?

[p.mc]

From the description, it does not look like a permanent pilot light style boiler. It seems to suggest it will light itself as required assuming all the prerequisites are met.

This will be on the gas pipe where it enters the boiler. However, since I doubt you have manually got a screwdriver onto it and turned it off, its almost certainly still on.

What indicator lights are showing?

What is the pressure gauge reading?

When you turn the room stat so that it "clicks", does the green "demand" light come on?

[YAPH]

Good suggestion :-)

Was it an MCB (overcurrent - rated 5 or 6 or 15 or 16 or 30 or 32Amps usually) tripping or an RCB (current leakage - these have a push to test and a reset button and usually say 30mA).

What was causing the tripping?

A valve on the gas inlet to the boiler, but unless you or someone else had turned it off it will be on anyway.

Yup

Sounds like it.

Have you checked for lock-out (as it says in the instructions you posted a photo of)?

And low water pressure (ditto)? Is the red light off?

Is the amber light on?

When you turn a hot tap on to generate a demand for hot water (which should result in the boiler firing up) what happens? Does the green light come on?

Can you hear the fan running? (You say you can hear "all the right noises".) I think you're looking at a fault in the boiler itself and - no offence - I think you probably ought to treat this as a No User Serviceable Parts inside job.

[geoff]

In message , p.mc writes

You don't, it has electronic ignition

It re-ignites every time there is a call for heat, or haven't you noticed?

The board responsible for opening the gas valves and spark is the square pcb (Zagas 126)

Are you getting gas to other appliances in the house ?

Is the water system pressure adequate (should be about 1.2Bar) ?

Is the fan coming on?

If so, unless there is something wrong with the air pressure switch, or you have a blockage or leak which is preventing it from transferring, it's either the above board or the gas solenoid gone open circuit - do you hear the click click click of the spark?

[p.mc]

Thank you all for your support.

A lad came today and it was the fan. I didn't know it had one! I also thought there was a small pilot light permanently lit, to answer Geoff's question.

He gave it a squirt of WD40 and it's now running fine, he'll replace the fan if it goes again any time soon he said. The culprit for tripping the MCB was the tumble dryer which had a new 4 bar

2500W heater to replace the older 4 bar 2300W one. The thing is, the heat is no where near as hot as the other! I'm wondering if something inside to do with the heat setting Hi-Low switch has broken! Any ideas? (off topic I know)

[ARWadsworth]

It is usually about now that dennise joins in and accuses you of only using the group to make money:-)

[Brian Gaff]

If you can get some synthetic engine oil into the bearing it lasts longer than wd40, which is only used to free the gunged up bearing. Depends how worn it is. all these el cheapo fans are the same heap of rubbish. Brian

[geoff]

In message , Brian Gaff writes

Ball races run in grease, not oil. Once they start to wear and lose their grease, it's only a matter of (unpredictable) time,

I wouldn't call £130 "el cheapo", but yes, worcester don't use decent quality bearings any more

[Tim]

writes

My old Ideal boiler had bushes, not balls, in the fan bearings.

Tim

[cynic]

Cue Geoff - was it "Anderol" you once advised as suitable lubricant?

[geoff]

And ?

[geoff]

For sintered bearings, yes

Worcs 350 fan uses ballraces

[Tim]

er.org>, Tim writes

Just pointing out that they're not all ball races and Brian's comments might not be as wide of the mark as you appeared to be suggesting.

Tim

[Tim]

Ignore above, just seen you comments about that particular boiler.

Tim

[John Rumm]

message> er.org>, Tim writes

Gaff>> writes

IME bush fans don't last as well as BB ones...

[geoff]

Its a Worcester 350 fan unit, it has ball races

626ZZ ball races if you really want to know

[Doctor Drivel]

Maxie, high temperature synthetic grease is available. If this can be put into the ball race then all is fine. Maxie, what is your take on regreasing?

[ARWadsworth]

He has twelve inches?

[Andrew Gabriel]

Potterton Profile, 21 years so far...

I could do with a new ball bearing for my dishwasher main pump. It's a 6mm shaft, and I think it was 20mm outer diameter, and about 6 or 7mm thick (but that's not critical).

The existing one got water with dishwasher detergent through it when the axial shaft seal failed. I've replaced the shaft seal, and cleaned the bearing, but it's impossible to grease it, so I got some oil in it instead. It spins nice and freely now, but it's noisy, and any vibration may do for the new shaft seal.