Being cautious re electrics ?

I just want to make sure this is correct as I dont usually enter the mains electric box. I am looking to disconnect the electric shower at the mains box, its already disconnected further down the line.

Can I assume that the 2 switches marked with a blue x are all that should be required to isolate the electrics for the disconnection. I cant see any other mains switches.

P.S. I will not take legal action if I get fried, in any case I will not be touching bare metal, insulated screwdriver and insulated pliers to lift themm out the way.

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Reply to
ss
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If you need to ask the question on something as basic that then you should be calling in an electrician. From your picture you obviously don't underst and your consumer unit. From the question you don't understand safe working practices with electrics. You also have not mentioned which of the two sho wers you wish to disconnect. Sorry, but call someone in.

Reply to
philipuk

But test what you think is dead, before touching anything - and test the tester on something live first in case the tester is faulty.

And remember that there are still live wires going into both of those main switches.

But I will also sound a note of caution as the other poster did - you've clearly never been near a CU before, so call an electrician, or at least a mate who has some familiarity with this type of work. And watch him.

A CU that is still carrying the incoming supply is not the best way to practise first time electrics.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I concur with the other posters - you probably want to get someone in.

However, if it was me, I wouldn't touch either of the mains switches - just the appropriate one of the switches labeled "shower". If you are going to work on the upstairs shower, you can safely leave the downstairs shower, the lights, and the ring mains on.

... although that depends on *why* you want to disconnect the electric shower at the mains box. If you are planning to remove the cable, all the way back to the CU, you just want to throw the Electricity Co switch. (There will be a wire + lead seal that you have to break to do this, but we have never heard of anyone getting into trouble for it. *DON'T* break the seal to the meter - that will get you into all sorts of trouble.)

Reply to
Martin Bonner

What I have done so far, switched off the circuit for the shower at the CU, checked the shower isolator switch was dead then disconnected the wires, then I double checked the shower was dead and then disconnected the actual shower and removed it. It was my understanding that it was best practice to also disconnect the wires at the CU unit as it would only take someone to switch that shower circuit back on to create live wires at the isolator switch, although I will be putting a blanking cover on it.

Reply to
ss

The black switch has been wrongly labelled it is an RCD and seems to be pro tecting the two ring mains and cooker circuits. I am surprised the shower M CBs are not protected by the RCD. It's not unusual for lighting circuits no t to be protected by an RCD. The main switch is the Red one on the left and should isolate all the MCBs.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

That might be a bit tricky as they don't fit them very often.

Reply to
dennis

In article , ss writes

No, not totally

The incoming supply to the Red Switch is still live.

Do you not have an isolator switch between the meter and your CU?

Reply to
bert

Someone has taken a lot of effort in installing the sticker at the top of the CU.

If that sticker is correct then I would not touch the CU with a barge pole.

Reply to
ARW

If you don't switch off the red switch then the busbar is still live. The other switch is irrelevant as the showers are not wired through the RCD.

No he can't if he is going to get inside the CU and disconnect the shower cable. Actually he could just remove the mini-breaker for the shower.

Reply to
bert

They'd have to have an extraordinarily low trip current to be of any use in that level of wetness.

Reply to
Cursitor Doom

Take care - the notice on the CU states otherwise - in this sense it is possible the RCD is acting as a main switch if both are being supplied directly from a Henley block.

I know it's not normal, but as we cannot see the insides, the OP would be wise to assume the worst.

Reply to
Tim Watts

It should be fairly straight forward to establish what does what by switching each of the labelled mains switches and see which circuits switch off and what remains live.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

In article , ARW writes

The I suggest you have a word with MK as it's one of their standard CU stickers.

Reply to
bert

Having fitted well over 500 MK CU units and never having seen such a sticker I believe you are incorrect.

There can only be one main switch. The clue is in the name.

Reply to
ARW

Then pull the master fuse. That's what I did when I wanted to move my CU. You can either just cut the lead sealing wire and pull it out, or buy a replacement seal on Ebay if you want to cover your tracks, although quite why we aren't allowed to shut off the mains I don't know. My gas supply has a huge lever I can pull to shut it off. If there was an emergency and I needed to cut off the electricity, I'd have to find pliers to cut the stupid seal to pull the fuse.

Reply to
Tough Guy no. 1265

Take the cover off so you can see what is wired to where. And do it during the day when it's light, and switch every single switch off first if you want to be safe.

Reply to
Tough Guy no. 1265

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Bottom right. Different format but same wording. Does seem odd though.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

But has it been correctly applied?

I might expect to see it if the CU has been adapted to be a dual-tariff one supplied by both 24h and off-peak supplies. Solar power is also an example where multiple isolation is required.

Neither appears to be relevant here.

Owain

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

I think the problem here is no one knows the history - it could be mis labelled, or it could be wired "creatively".

The OP is right just to hit all the "main switches" as long as he tests to verify afterwards :)

Reply to
Tim Watts

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