25amp Isolator switch

If it is 3 Kw then a more usual 20 amp type will do - and these can be bought in the style of a light switch.

The purpose of this is to isolate the appliance for servicing etc so it should be fitted in the cable feeding the appliance and reasonably close to it.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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I think that your question raises concerns about your competence in dealing with such issues.

Reply to
John

Ah, so no-one should ever try and learn anything about anything?

Reply to
Huge

I think Dave's suggesting that the OP does his learning on jobs that aren't so likely to kill himself and/or others if he hasn't yet learned enough, and that his question indicates a level of inexperience and confusion which suggests that he may get other vital aspects of the job dangerously wrong.

Reply to
John Stumbles

I didn't suggest anything but it's good advice.

In an ideal world, kids will play with batteries and bulbs etc and learn the basics of electricity long before attempting DIY on house electrics.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Can you give us some more information on your layout here?

Why can you not use the "RCD Consumer Unit" as an isolator?

Is it actually isolation you need or functional switching?

Reply to
John Rumm

I'd guess it's in the installation instructions - and the 25 amp bit a direct quote from the 'translation'.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Which raises the the possibility that this appliance might not even be for 230Vac...

Reply to
Ed Sirett

Indeed - The Boy Electrician (1948-1966) recommended reading.

My first attempt to use mains - connected to a transformer (under father's supervision ) resulted in considerable smoke and smell since the transformer was an interstage valve job...

Geo

Reply to
Geo

CAUTION!!!!

3KW happens to be 25A at 120V...... Is this a USA appliance?????????? Please check the rating label!!!!!!
Reply to
James Salisbury

You're right to mention it, but hot tubs I've seen in the U.S. all connect to the 220V supply. Normally 110v circuits are 15A or sometimes 20A.. Larger appliances are run from 220v to keep the current and gauge of wire reasonable.

Reply to
Andy Hall

"The Boy Electrician" predates 1948 - my earlier copy was published in

1920 (reprinted 1921).
Reply to
Frank Erskine

Need to fit a 25amp isolator switch for my 3Kw hot tub question is do you fit the isolator switch after the RCD Consumer Unit or to the supply cable before going to the Consumer Unit ?

Reply to
Ray

OK, fair enough...

A 3kW hot tub will actually only draw 13A not 25A. Hence a simple double pole switch such as:

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be fine.

If you really feel you need the ability to switch 25A for some reason then:

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do the trick.

Reply to
John Rumm

No offence intended, but the second half of your question does not really enhance the first assertion.

The answer is: "The only one place it could go". You already have (at least) one isolator before the CU (i.e. its main RCD). Probably another at the head end of the submain that feeds the CU.

If all you want to do is isolate the hot tub then the isolator must be between the MCB/fuse that supplies the circuit, and the appliance in question (and you can't use the MCB for isolation since that is only a single pole device).

Reply to
John Rumm

Seems you should stick to rocket science, then?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

CU approx 2.5metres away from Hot tub.

Because the CU also supplies lights & patio power sockets

Isolation for the hot tub only

It is an English version hot tub of 230 volts.

Reply to
Ray

Do me a favour, electricity is not exactly rocket science - I simply want to know what side of the CU it goes.

Reply to
Ray

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