Whirlpool washer won't spin (Researched already, Just trying to clarify)

***if you don't want the whole story, jump to "details"***
Hi everyone, I've done extensive research about my problem in old NG posts and repair sites on the net. I just wanted to clarify that I'm replacing the correct parts so that I don't continue to throw money away....
Last week while washing a load of laundry, I smelled something like melting plastic or hot wax...after noticing the smell, I noticed that the washer had gone through all cycles except the spin cycle. I opened the lid and decided that the smell was definitely coming from within the washer(later narrowed it to the lid switch). Ok, so I researched and decided that I'd try to replace the lid switch to resolve the problem. Seemed fine for about 2 loads on Saturday, but this morning after putting a load in, the "smell" returned, and the machine will not spin. So $25 on a part that was probably not the problem (I *did* test the old switch before replacing it, but since I've read that a switch can -test- fine, but still be weak I chalked it up to that theory).
*** DETAILS ***
Machine runs fine until spin cycle. It will spin (with manual intervention) under 2 conditions: 1. lid open, no clothes loaded or 2. clothes loaded and "jump started" by hand (i.e. push it with my hand then it kicks in on its own). Replaced lid switch..it was NOT the prblem. I'm thinking that it's the drive coupling (as seen here: http://repair2000.com/coupling.html ) Can anyone confirm this or point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot to anyone who can help!
-paul
P.S. it's a newer whirlpool, not sure what year (was bought used about a year ago)...only has motor and transmission, no belt as far as I know (I've seen it apart before)
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paul wrote in message ...

The machine should NOT spin with the lid open. The lid switch is there to prevent it.

I assume with the lid open? See reply above.

I can confirm it is the *wrong* direction. If the motor coupling was broken, the washer would not wash or spin, ever (except by you pushing it all the time). The motor coupler connects the motor to the rest of the washer's drive train. The pump should still work as it is connected directly to the motor and will be unaffected by a motor coupler failure.

What would be most helpful is the washer's *model number*. You can find tips for finding the model number on your appliances in the 'Repair Parts' section of my site linked below.

Well that narrows it down to the newer Whirlpool 'direct drive' washer design.
Assuming it is a model with a 'neutral drain' transmissions (most direct drive models are - but not all), here is how it's suppose to work.
When such a washer first goes into spin, the motor turns the pump to drain the water but the washer does *not* spin. After a short time the timer pauses the motor which allows the neutral drain assembly inside the transmission to 'shift' into gear. The next time the motor starts up the washer should then spin.
On such a machine the washer not going into spin with the motor running can be caused by the timer not pausing or the transmission's 'neutral drain' mechanism not resetting.
In the first case opening *then closing* the lid would simulate the pause the timer should do on its own. If the timer isn't pausing, it is likely defective and needs to be replaced. Burnt contacts inside the timer is usually the cause of such a failure and may be the odor you smelled previously.
If the timer is pausing or even opening *and closing* the lid does not allow the transmission to 'shift into gear', either the transmission needs to be replaced or the transmission has to be taken apart and the neutral drain mechanism has to be replaced.
Dan O. - Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Whirlpool+washer
=~~~~~~
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Oops! forgot a little detail there... I was getting it to spin with the lid open by holding the switch in manually (with a screwdriver). I'm still reading your reply, but wanted to post this detail real quick since I left it out of my original post. I'll read the replies thoroughly & post again later or once I've made some progress. Thanks for the replies so far!
-paul
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paul wrote:

Wouldn't it be timer contact for spin cycle to check first? Tony
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Ok guys..........here we go... Whirlpool model number is LSC8244DQ0. From the replies so far, I'm assuming that the problem is as Dan stated...either the timer or the neutral drain mechanism in the transmission. I'm going to take the control panel off to look at the switch/timer contacts. I'll post again if I see anything interesting :) I'm really *hoping* that it was the timer considering that I smelled something "burning" when the problem arose. If it's the transmission I'm sure that is going to be more costly and time consuming. Thanks for all of the help so far!
-paul

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Ok everyone, my latest investigative work is finished. The timer seems to be in good shape -no burnt contacts, and continuity seems fine on all of the pins. I believe that the problem is in the transmission. I have no idea how the "burning plastic" odor plays into the situation. Everything seems to work fine including the timer sending the signal to start the spin cycle. The problem is that it just makes a noise (motor running, but transmission not engaged??) when the spin cycle starts.
If I open the lid at this point, hold in the lid switch with a screwdriver and give the basket a slight spin it kicks in by itself, drains, spins out and finishes the load normally(after I've removed the screwdriver & closed the lid of course). So there is apparently some *mechanical* part that is not engaging when the spin cycle is supposed to turn on (even though it seems as if it's being told to do so by the timer). Does this extra info help out in any further diagnosis? All experts feel free to ring in here :) In case you guys didn't see my other post, the washer model number is: LSC8244DQ0 and it is a Whirlpool with no belt.
-paul
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That model is a 'direct drive model and does use a neutral drain transmission. After the washer drains most of the water out, if the timer doesn't pause the motor briefly to start the spinning, opening and closing the lid should simulate that pause. If it spins after that, the transmission is likely Ok in which case a defective timer is likely the cause of your problem.

There should be a removable access plate on the timer on your model which can be easily slid off to reveal its contacts (once you gain access to the inside of the console).
You're lucky, many newer washer models use a plastic timer where viewing the contacts is not possible (without destroying the timer in the process). You can see the timer used on your model at the following link:
Whirlpool washer LSC8244DQ0 timer http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?rcT7034
JFYI
Dan O. - Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Whirlpool+washer
=~~~~~~

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Hi,
The lid switch would prevent the draining & spinning from working if it was bad.
*Some* won't spin trouble makers and info.... http://www.applianceaid.com/direct-nospin.html
If the motor coupler is bad, the agitation usually will fail as well....but no harm in checking the motor coupler!!
http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html Access helps.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /

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