What does chain saw oil oil?

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wrote:

drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.

wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Stormin never said his was anything but anecdotal. Heck, 90% of what's posted here is anecdotal when you get down to it. Sometimes that's all ya got.
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On 06/15/2013 04:52 PM, micky wrote:

Yes. Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause blisters.
Jon
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On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:05:56 -0700, Jon Danniken

Thanks. It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think, probably because the chain is very loose. I tried to tighten it months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so loose. I probably used the wrong technique.
But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this means I've been doing that part the right way.
I'm about 3/4 done with my tree. There's still a small amount above my head stuck in the bushes and a tree outside the fence, and there are some logs too heavy for me to lift, or at least to throw over the 40" fence, across the 5' easement, and down into the stream bed. These are two 8 or 10 foot pieces, so maybe tomorrow I'll cut them short enough to throw.
I left about 12 or 15 feet of trunk still attached to the ground, and it didn't pop up Tuesday, right after the rest of the tree was cut off of it, but since Wednesday, it's gone from a 30^ angle to the ground to a 45^ angle.
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On 06/15/2013 08:00 PM, micky wrote:

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic oiler. The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).
Jon
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wrote:

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,

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling system, not automatic. In which case it must be ancient, because I've never seen one. Even my old 1970s Stihl has an automatic oiler. And if it's that old, probably not worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no parts. Personally, even if it was working, if it required pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could put up with that, except for very limited use. I recently bought a new electric saw online for $80.
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wrote:

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I ran those old gear drives and some straight drives with manual oilers. Not fun. Last one was in 1976 with my old man's X:!@. Dunno how old that one was.
From Micky's posts he doesn't seem to know anything about chainsaws - hope he doesn't harm himself cutting up that tree.
Harry K
Harry K
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

I think it's a manual oiler.

I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this (see following post)

That's what I thought. It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one squeezes. I assume that is to oil the chain. Unless it's to oil the chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought never occurred to me until just now.
The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.
I was wrong about the brand. It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP. Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.

I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe less often. Beggars can't be choosers. In a way, I might be happy if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.
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een the

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Ummm, given that auto-oilers put out oil constantly, very slowly, that sounds like a real bad idea. I've never had a manual oiler, but I would suspect that you have to get oil on it a lot more often than every 15 mins. I would think more like every few minutes. And putting more on each time isn't going to do much good, it will just fly off.
Beggars can't be choosers.   In a way, I might be happy

-

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wrote:

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I also have a Remington electric with the half-dome rubber bulb in the middle of the oil filler cap. I always squirt some oil before starting to cut, and then can sort of tell by the sound when it is not actually cutting if it needs more oil, besides what ever drips out from the auto-oiler. The noise levels doesn't get louder so much as it just sounds different.
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On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 18:57:37 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net"

Thanks. I will try that.
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micky wrote:

Hang the chainsaw on a nail using the small hole at the end of the bar. With the bar facing up in storage the oil will stay in the saw's oil tank.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
  Click to see the full signature.
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Now I know why I read this group... I just learned something... I'm headed to the garage now to hammer a nail in the wall.
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I have 2 electric chain saws, a 14" and a 16" that leak oil, so I usually fill them just before I go to use the saw. But itis a pain in the butt to have to stop to addoil just when I am planning on cutting tree limbs or getting a log cut into sections to split for firewood. THe only solution seems to be to keep the saws horixontal when not using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact problem.
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On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:30:46 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net"

You and Willshak need to talk to each other. When you resolve things, I'll do whatever you agree on.
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On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 18:30:46 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net"

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.
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I've seen them on Amazon, and Ebay. Not all that expensive, either. Made with 10% real dilithium crystals. The good ones are fuzzy, and warm because of the tribble skin coating. . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org . .

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.
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Lots of replies, some wrong information.
No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' Bar and chain oil has a special additive to help it stay on the chain. It is ther to lubricate the chain and bar. The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.
You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using the wrong oil.
If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece of equipment. Care/maintenance of a chainsaw is not rocket science. Running a loose chain is begging for it to be thrown off and wrap around some part of your body;.
Harry K
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s

he

,

How do you know it's not a total piece of junk? The fact that from what he says, it apparently has a manual oiler, one that is leaking too, would suggest that it isn't a fine one.
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wrote:

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Even old ancient saws are collector items. I'll bet he is also running a dull chain.
Harry K
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