What does chain saw oil oil?

[Fat-Dumb and Happy]

Now I know why I read this group... I just learned something... I'm headed to the garage now to hammer a nail in the wall.

[Harry K]

I ran those old gear drives and some straight drives with manual oilers. Not fun. Last one was in 1976 with my old man's X:!@. Dunno how old that one was.

From Micky's posts he doesn't seem to know anything about chainsaws - hope he doesn't harm himself cutting up that tree.

Harry K

Harry K

[Harry K]

Even old ancient saws are collector items. I'll bet he is also running a dull chain.

Harry K

[micky]

I think it's a manual oiler.

I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this (see following post)

That's what I thought. It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one squeezes. I assume that is to oil the chain. Unless it's to oil the chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought never occurred to me until just now.

The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.

I was wrong about the brand. It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP. Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.

I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe less often. Beggars can't be choosers. In a way, I might be happy if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.

[micky]

Makes sense. Despite what a couple guys here said, I decided against vegetable oil in general. Might be slippery at room temperatures, but the chain gets a lot hotter. Maybe it shouldn't but it does.

BTW, I remember now. This saw didnt' cut when I got it at the yard sale. I wasn't in one of my stupid periods and I figured out pretty quickly that the chain was on backwards, despite my lack of experience.

[trader4]

[e-mail]...

So what? Vegetable oil isn't slippery anymore just because it gets hotter? I still have an old gallon of Stihl bar oil from decades ago. Says right on the container it's soybean oil. I'm sure they put some other additives in it to improve the performance. I wouldn't put straight veg oil in a brand new Stihl that I was using everyday. But for some crappy old electric craftsman, that is leaking oil, has a manual oil system, that I picked up for $10 at a yard sale, I sure would.

[trader4]

Ummm, given that auto-oilers put out oil constantly, very slowly, that sounds like a real bad idea. I've never had a manual oiler, but I would suspect that you have to get oil on it a lot more often than every 15 mins. I would think more like every few minutes. And putting more on each time isn't going to do much good, it will just fly off.

Beggars can't be choosers.   In a way, I might be happy

[hrhofmann]

I also have a Remington electric with the half-dome rubber bulb in the middle of the oil filler cap. I always squirt some oil before starting to cut, and then can sort of tell by the sound when it is not actually cutting if it needs more oil, besides what ever drips out from the auto-oiler. The noise levels doesn't get louder so much as it just sounds different.

[micky]

Thanks. I will try that.

[Stormin Mormon]

Glad I'm not the only one to do that backwards chain snafu.

Makes sense. Despite what a couple guys here said, I decided against vegetable oil in general. Might be slippery at room temperatures, but the chain gets a lot hotter. Maybe it shouldn't but it does.

BTW, I remember now. This saw didnt' cut when I got it at the yard sale. I wasn't in one of my stupid periods and I figured out pretty quickly that the chain was on backwards, despite my lack of experience.

[TimR]

I've never ever had anybody hand me a drill without reversing it first. So I return the favor every chance I get. It's part of the Guy Code.

[Ralph Mowery]

I handed a battery powered drill to a woman mechanic where I worked with it set in reverse.She was not hitting on much as the smarts go, but got the job as part of the political system. She only had to drill one 1/4 inch hole in some cast iron about 1/4 of an inch thick. She drilled for a while and then mentioned something about a switch on the top of the drill. I told here to turn it. It was a speed switch. It slowed down . After about 30 seconds she said it was not doing as good as the first way, so I told her to turn it back.

It looked like it was going to rain ( we were outside) so I told her to look under the drill at the other switch (the reversing one) and change it and see what hapens. She finally did get the hole drilled. There were several others looking on and snikering at her.

[dennisgauge]

e metal pieces.

Bullshit.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wou ldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last t ime!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder rec iprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

[Harry K]

ive metal pieces.

ouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

eciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate f or a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sort s of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Thanks for posting that. I have seen the "full of abrasives and metal pieces" many times and thought it was pretty asinine.

Harry K

[Big Al]

metal pieces.

wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Using old drain oil is penny wise and pound foolish! But hey, it's your saw!

[Stormin Mormon]

abrasive metal pieces.

Bullshit.

If used motor oil were full of abrasive metal pieces, your car's engine wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

The used motor oil was good enough for a close-tolerance multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

[Stormin Mormon]

multi-cylinder reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Using old drain oil is penny wise and pound foolish! But hey, it's your

saw!

[Harry K]

s drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.

[e-mail]...

ive metal pieces.

ouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

eciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate f or a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sort s of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Now there is firm scientific evidence...but mine cancels yours. I use bar oil and my chains wear out faster than my neighbors. Iwond if my cutting 10+ cord/yr and him only using his saw to trim stuff around the yard would have anything to do with it...hmmm?

Anecdotal evidence is only good for laughs.

Harry K

[Ashton Crusher]

drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.

messagenews: [e-mail]...

metal pieces.

wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last time!

reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.

Stormin never said his was anything but anecdotal. Heck, 90% of what's posted here is anecdotal when you get down to it. Sometimes that's all ya got.