drive south of me. He used bar oil, and the neighbor used crank case oil. The
neighbor's chains wore out a lot faster.
wouldn't have run long enough to get the oil warmed up to change it the last
reciprocating engine 5 minutes before you dumped it. It is surely adequate for a
sloppy-fitting chain riding in a track and being subjected to all sorts of
contamination and abuse 5 minutes AFTER you dumped it.
Stormin never said his was anything but anecdotal. Heck, 90% of what's
posted here is anecdotal when you get down to it. Sometimes that's
all ya got.
Thanks. It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think,
probably because the chain is very loose. I tried to tighten it
months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so
loose. I probably used the wrong technique.
But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from
the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this
means I've been doing that part the right way.
I'm about 3/4 done with my tree. There's still a small amount above
my head stuck in the bushes and a tree outside the fence, and there
are some logs too heavy for me to lift, or at least to throw over the
40" fence, across the 5' easement, and down into the stream bed.
These are two 8 or 10 foot pieces, so maybe tomorrow I'll cut them
short enough to throw.
I left about 12 or 15 feet of trunk still attached to the ground, and
it didn't pop up Tuesday, right after the rest of the tree was cut off
of it, but since Wednesday, it's gone from a 30^ angle to the ground
to a 45^ angle.
The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic
oiler. The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of
oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the
bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).
From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling
system, not automatic. In which case it must be ancient,
because I've never seen one. Even my old 1970s Stihl
has an automatic oiler. And if it's that old, probably not
worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no
parts. Personally, even if it was working, if it required
pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could
put up with that, except for very limited use. I recently
bought a new electric saw online for $80.
I ran those old gear drives and some straight drives with manual
oilers. Not fun. Last one was in 1976 with my old man's X:!@. Dunno
how old that one was.
From Micky's posts he doesn't seem to know anything about chainsaws -
hope he doesn't harm himself cutting
up that tree.
On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 07:00:17 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
I think it's a manual oiler.
I'm almost done now, but I found the chailn oil so, I may try this
(see following post)
That's what I thought. It has a rubber bulb, or half-bulb, that one
squeezes. I assume that is to oil the chain. Unless it's to oil the
chain at the start and it's automatic from then on, but that thought
never occurred to me until just now.
The bulb is built into the cap of the oil container.
I was wrong about the brand. It's a Remington, 16-inch, 3.25 HP.
Black plastic with a separate handle for the left hand.
I only spray oil on it every 15 minutes of actual cutting, or maybe
less often. Beggars can't be choosers. In a way, I might be happy
if it broke, because I would buy a new replacement, complete with
instructions and, from what you say, automatic oiling.
Ummm, given that auto-oilers put out oil constantly, very
slowly, that sounds like a real bad idea. I've never had a
manual oiler, but I would suspect that you have to get oil
on it a lot more often than every 15 mins. I would think
more like every few minutes. And putting more on each
time isn't going to do much good, it will just fly off.
Beggars can't be choosers. In a way, I might be happy
I also have a Remington electric with the half-dome rubber bulb in the
middle of the oil filler cap. I always squirt some oil before
starting to cut, and then can sort of tell by the sound when it is
not actually cutting if it needs more oil, besides what ever drips out
from the auto-oiler. The noise levels doesn't get louder so much as
it just sounds different.
I have 2 electric chain saws, a 14" and a 16" that leak oil, so I
usually fill them just before I go to use the saw. But itis a pain in
the butt to have to stop to addoil just when I am planning on cutting
tree limbs or getting a log cut into sections to split for firewood.
THe only solution seems to be to keep the saws horixontal when not
using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging
them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a
newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at
least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure
out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact
I've seen them on Amazon, and Ebay. Not all
that expensive, either. Made with 10% real
dilithium crystals. The good ones are fuzzy,
and warm because of the tribble skin coating.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Lots of replies, some wrong information.
No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' Bar and chain oil has a special
additive to help it stay on the chain. It is ther to lubricate the
chain and bar. The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it
all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.
You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using
the wrong oil.
If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show
you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece
of equipment. Care/maintenance of a chainsaw is not rocket science.
Running a loose chain is begging for it to be thrown off and wrap
around some part of your body;.
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