synthetic motor oil

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I have owned Toyotas for the past 30 years and been very happy with them. I buy my cars used, typically 4-5 years old and keep them for 4-5 years or when they get near 200,000 miles. In each case I change my own oil because it's cheaper, I can use the oil and filter I want, and I don't trust the garages.
Last spring I bought a used 2013 Lexus RX350 with 16,000 miles. The Lexus dealer had put synthetic Mobil 1 oil in it upon delivery and also at the first free oil change 10,000 miles later. This past weekend I was due for another oil change at 35,000 miles and did it myself this time. I decided to go with Pennzoil Platinum Pure Plus 0W-20 after researching synthetic oils. The Toyota oil filter came from Lexus and the oil from Walmart. Total cost was under $47 for the filter and seven quarts of oil.
Maybe it's my imagination or the effect of new oil, but I must say the engine sounds quieter and my average gas mileage has climbed by a mile a gallon.
Other than extended oil change intervals has anyone noticed a difference when switching from conventional to synthetic motor oils? Have you noticed a difference between different brands of oils?
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On Tue, 2 Feb 2016 19:27:22 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"

I think some people obsess about oil a lot more than is necessary. Change it every once in a while and use any API rated oil, you will be fine. 99.99% of cars are junked for thinks other than oil related failure and most people are not really that diligent about oil, particularly the 2d and 3d owner of the car.
If you really want to see people who obsess about oil, go to one of the boating BBs. They act like Yamaha and OMC have their own refinery somewhere pumping out this $8-10 a quart magical formula oil.
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On 2/2/2016 3:22 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Many years ago when synthetics were relatively new, my brother and I did some experiments with high rpm small displacement engines. Systhetic is is superior to regular oil.
That said, regular oil is still good for most cars and will work for 200,000 miles on the engine. I just use regular oil. If I had a Corvette or Lamborghini . . .
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Or if temperatures dropped to -40, or went up to 100+F, or if the engine is lugged -like towing trailer, or revved high, like in racing - the synthetic has real advantages.
I've switched both of my vehicles to synthetic, doubling my change intervals - so the extra cost is minimal. I change the oil spring and fall on both vehicles, whether the miles call for it or not. If I manage to put more than 10-15,000km on the vehicle before the season change, I'd change the oil early. (but we don't put that many miles on, generally. If we travel across the continent next summer, the car might get 3 changes instead of 2.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com posted for all of us...

Marvel Mystery Oil?
--
Tekkie

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STP, Motor Honey, Yamaha Ring Free and all the other overpriced but largely ineffective mouse milks.
Years ago they asked Smokey Yanuck (famous stock car mechanic) about the STP sticker on his NASCAR racers. He said "it don't seem to hurt anything".
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Marvel Mystery oil is a good "tool" for solving some of the problems neglect inflicts on an engine.. Stuck rings and restricted oil galleries, as well as noisy gummed up lifters - all often caused by insufficient oil changes or oil quality, can more often than not be helped by the use of MMO.
Not necessary on an adequately maintained engine running a quality oil.
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On Tue, 02 Feb 2016 15:22:29 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Anyone who believes all oils are the same is very delusional. And anyone who thinks changing the oil on a reasonable schedule is wastefull is just fooling themselves.
Oil is the lifeblood of the engine. It lubricates, cools, and cleans the moving surfaces of the engine, preventing, or at least greatly reducing both wear and corrosion. Anyone who has worked extensively on engines can tell you what a neglected engine looks like, and can tell the neglected from the well maintained with his eyes closed.
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On Tue, 02 Feb 2016 16:59:32 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

We are assuming you change the oil somewhat on schedule but I know people who change it every year or two and still do not have oil related problems. As for the oil, you would have to really look hard to find any oil that does not meet the manufacturer's requirements. It is all going to be API SN unless someone found a case in the back from the Disco days. At the end of the day, most cars are junked because the body rusts out, all the doodads fail or the plastic interior simply decays away. The engine is still running. I am a "beater driver" who runs my cars until the wheels fall off (100k+ miles) and I haven't gotten rid of a single one because the engine failed. It is always just a combination of a dozen other nagging little things that add up to more than the car is worth.
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On Tue, 02 Feb 2016 18:43:03 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

If your wheels fall off at 100,000 miles you are neglecting your vehicle bif time. I BUY vehicles with twice that mileage on them - up here in the rust belt of the great white north.My truck is 20 years old with 340,000km on it and it's not half worn out yet.
Any piece of junk today will go 100,000 miles (160,000km) with 4 or 5 oil changes. Getting the next hundred out of a neglected engine is the trick. Also, the recommended oil on many vehicles today is a full synthetic. My wife's car calls for a synthetic blend 5w20 at the minimum - full synthetic 0w20 preferred.
I've only gotten rid of two vehicles with under 240,000km on it in the last 30 years - and one was to replace it with a vehicle with 307,000km on it. The only one I scrapped had well over 375,000km on it - just under 100,000km on a crappy rebuilt engine. I gave the other one to my future son-in-law when his Chrysler 300 was stolen and the insurance co dragged their heals paying him out. It was ready for the scrap yard due to a badly rusted body (1995 Mystique) but mechanically it was still excellent. The first owner had neglected the body - I bought it cheap 10 years old with over 100,000km on the clock and it only got about 5500km put on it per year for the 7 or 8 years we owned it.
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On Tue, 02 Feb 2016 21:20:31 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

\ The engine was never why I got rid of a vehicle, It is stuff like the AC needs $1500 worth of work, the body was rusting out, it needed paint, the transmission was on it's last legs and the interior was sunburned so badly it would never come back.
(the F150 we sold Obama for $4500 plus $450 for the scrap and $80 in tax credits)

If you have anything that new, we are not talking about the same car. I have a 97 Honda and a 2000 Ford.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Honda? I logged 320K Km on my '98 CRV. Nothing was wrong. I got tired of it and sold it. I ran an ad. on local Kijiji and phone started ringing within 30 mins. First guy came along with cash and took the car. I think some people's job is perusing ads. every hour of the day, LOL!
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On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:

A friend of mine has had 3 CRVs. He's gotten 200K+ miles on each one, without any major repairs, other than AC. The AC systems were the weak spot, he had trouble there, compressors, condensers, clutch, etc on two of them. From what I saw, they were very reliable vehicles, especially considering the price. The BMW X5 here has some real annoying design flaws, like window regulators that break, sending the glass crashing down, breaking it. Had two different ones go that way, another one go without breaking the glass. Also, their rubber parts, eg the big elbow on the intake system, CV boots, just don't last. Those CRVs, I don't think my buddy replaced a CV boot. The X5 goes through them at about 60K.
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On Wed, 3 Feb 2016 05:17:06 -0800 (PST), trader_4

I don't have a clue how many miles my 97 Honda has on it. The speedo was obviously tampered with, the CarFax is suspicious and the 10,000 wheel never moved for 10 years (it bumped half way over and snapped back in a few hundred miles). Now it started going again. It says 100k and change. I can say this has been a low maintenance vehicle for me. I did buy the dealer $1000 belt job (water pump, main crank seals etc) because it is more than I wanted to deal with on a Prelude. The first step in the shop manual is "remove engine" ;-) When I looked at it at the dealer, they had loosened the motor mounts and jacked it over a bit. That also gets access to remove the oil pan for the seals. Other than that, I replaced the "juice" parts in the clutch, tires and put in an MP3 player. It does get fresh oil now and then but certainly not as often as it would take to make Clare happy and the oil is from Rural King ($1.50/qt) as often as not. Cars are Bic lighters to me. When it quits, I will throw it away and buy another one.
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 11:34:50 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

When you say "once in a while"- how many months and guestimate of how many miles? twice a year? Depends too how clean the oil stays - which will also depend somewhat on how hot the little critter runs.
You don't have to keep me happy - just you and your Honda.
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 17:10:29 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I am not married to the honda. It is a piece of metal that gets me up to Publix. Other question Every year or two?
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On Wed, 03 Feb 2016 00:38:09 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

The car just turned 14. The truck is 20.
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On Tue, 02 Feb 2016 18:43:03 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

That's certainly happened to me too. One of them leaked from oil pan, the transmission, the power steering, and the radiator, and had dents in every fender, but stil ran smooth and got the same mileage as it did when I got it. But I buy my cars when they are 7 years old and keep them for 7 and it just wasn't worth fixing. BTW, on one Lebaron I'd drive without power steering fluid for months at a time -- it was only a problem at speeds under 3mph -- but when I added fluid, the steering was as good as new, until the fluid ran out in 2 or 3 days. I guess enough stayed in, below the hose level, to lubricate the pump.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

A case I saw when I was wrenching was the boss called me over and wanted to show me something. A Mustang with half a block missing. She got 22k out of it without changing oil... Change oil? wuz dat?
--
Tekkie

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Or all the Chryslers, Toyotas, VWs etc with the "coking" problem a few years back. Not a single one was a vehicle that followed the "extreme conditions" oil schedule with synthetic oil. Not a SINGLE ONE.
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