Speaking of broken spark plugs...

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Ever had a pickup with a 350 and a Holly 4bbl? If you add up the digits of the engine ci, that's the mpg.
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wrote:

When I stomped on the gas in my 69 Firebird, you could see the gas gauge needle moving. I used to tell people it could pass anything except a gas station.
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wrote:

Not entirely true. There are quite a few high performance engines that are non-interference engines.

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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I suspect that most of those are turbo'd or supercharged. Aside from the physical impossibility of getting the chambers small enough to provide a high compression ratio, valve reliefs in the piston crowns are bad in and of themselves in terms of performance (hot spots, pockets, etc.)
Now if you're talking about older V-8 thumpers then yes I would agree with you, but those typically don't have timing belts, either.
nate
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote: ...

OTOH, the Honda CRX I mentioned earlier was the other end...no noise in self-destructing but beyond reasonable repair. The switchout was the logical choice...
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On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 19:27:40 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

The RAV engine is a "non-interference" engine. Something just over half, I would guess, of current belt driven camshaft motors today are technically non-interference engines - but that still leaves a lot of destruction waiting to happen.
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote in

It's called a non-interference engine.
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wrote:

Yes, I obviously know that. I was simply pointing out that the problem of timing belts breaking causing engine destruction is not really a "foreign car" problem. The Rav4 is one of those cars where they recommend replacing the timing belt every 70k miles as a matter of routine maintenance. The dealers who make money on replacing those belts would like you to believe you will risk a destroyed engine if you don't. For many cars, it's bulls***. The "70k" is not really the normal recommended interval, either. Dealers still tell you that it is, so they make more work for themselves. The 70K figure is for cars used for heavy city traffic (taxi cab). If you drive a lot of highway miles, and aren't using your Toyota as a taxi in Istanbul, the interval can be as much as doubled.
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It happens a LOT on engines that are "interference" engines. The valve is opened by the cam when the piston comes up - the piston hits the valve and bends it. If it hits often enough, ot just the right way, the valve head can break off and bounce around in the cyl. The valve can also crack or break the piston.
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On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 14:42:26 -0500, "JoeSpareBedroom"

All that, plus scarred cylinder wall , malted rings, yawn.
Start with a compression test. Even check all the cylinders for good compression.
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Drain the oil inot a pan and sweep it with a magnet to see what you find.
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

If the shell is in good shape, and the miles that low, I'd price out an light-bulb-style engine swap with a guaranteed used engine. Value of the car is irrelevant, what matters is what it would cost to replace it with something as reliable.
-- aem sends...
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If the engine is indeed shot, one thing you may do rather than buy an engine from a wrecking yard is to find another Subaru that has a bad tranny, or is wrecked in such a way that the engine is not harmed. If you are in or near a fairly large city, something may show up on Craigslist for a lot less that a wrecking yard would get for an engine. First, ask the mechanic what he would charge to pull the engine out and put it in yours, and the years and models of Subaru which would have the same engine. I see stuff like this all the time on CL, for $200-300, often with nearly new tires or other major parts that are nearly new. Besides the engine, keep whatever else is in good shape and you think you may use in the future, and sell the rest for scrap metal. Larry
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On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 17:20:26 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Lp1331 1p1331) wrote:

The only problem with the custo9mer supplying the engine is that if it turns out that the engine has a knock or otherwise isn't as good as expected, the installer is not responsible to do anyting about it. Even if the person who sold you the engine gives you a second engine for free, you will be paying again for the labor. Buy the engine from the installer or you will be taking a very large risk.
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On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 19:31:49 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

Or just buy a good running engine in a scrapped car that you can run and have the mechanic/installer test out before installing.
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On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 10:16:08 -0500, against all advice, something

I guess if it was my car, I'd blow out the affected cylinder with compressed air to get any debris out, screw in the right plug, fire it up and see what happens. Worst thing that could happen is you'd ruin the motor further and it would need to be replaced, and just swapping it out for a known good unit would probably cost less than the diagnostic disassembly.
Best thing happens, it runs ok, and you get a couple more years out of it.
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