Security Door - One Way Screws

I am about to install a security screen door which will be attached to the house with 8 included 4-inch color-matched one-way screws. Obviously, I need to get it right the first time. According to the oh-so-simple instructions, I just need to drill 3/16-inch holes, then use a flat blade screwdriver to insert the screws.
How do the pros do this? Is there a drill bit for one-way screws? I also had the idea to first install the door using 2-inch hex-head lag screws, then remove them one by one and replace with the one-way screws.
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
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On 1/2/2011 12:21 AM Robert H spake thus:

If you're worried about not getting it right the first time, go with your second hunch there and use some non-one-way screws first. (Make sure they're the same size as the ones supplied with the door.)
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To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
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So use regular screws until you get it right. Then change screws.

No. To put them in? Why would that be different? I wanted to take my expensive door bolt with the twin round keys, that I paid for and installed, including in the steel door frame, when I left my apartment in NYC. I had put in one-way screws, the ones that are flat going clockwise and sloped and rounded up going the other way. One the door side, the wood door is metal clad and the wood part of holes were not that tight. They didn't have to be becuse the force would be in the other direction. The door jamb prevented pulling.
They were supposed to be tight enough that a burglar entering via the fire escape wouldn't be able to get out the apartment door. And the fire escapes on the front of the building didnt' go to the roof, so it was quite unlikely anyone would enter that way. (Though I did once when the landlord illegally broke in and changed the locks. I went to the girls upstairs, out their window, down the fire escape one flight, broke the glass in one small pane, entered, and changed the lock again, then wouldn't leave the apartment until I resolved it with the landlord.
So when I moved out, I used a hammer and a screwdriver to make the slightest notch in the screw head and unscrewed them, and because the holes weren't tight, it worked. I shouldn't have taken it. There is no use for such a lock in Baltimore, at least not where I live.

That's something like what I just suggested. Why don't you do that? I don't know why lag screws especially. Aren't they thicker than the one-way screws you have?

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?

You are correct using the regular screws and replacing them one at a time. There are different head types for security screws. Since you need a flat blade to install them, I'm guessing they are the one way type with two bumps on them. Please verify that so I can order the correct screwdriver to take them out and steal the door. See item 7392A64 at the McMaster web site. There is a drill bit attachment also to get them out even faster. Item 5713A14
I hope you still feel secure!
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I used to be in that business. Using one-way screws is not a great idea. If you put them in a tube, you have a bugger of a time getting them out. Putting them in a tube is a good way to keep someone from accessing them and backing them out. But some doors come with just screw tabs. It just depends if you have a welder, and can weld. It only takes a 110 Mig to do it. What works better, and is available, is to weld on a 1" x 1" cover on the tube, and limit access to only those determined thieves who want to use a grinder to get it off. Anyone who is really in a hurry will just hook a chain on it and pull it off in two seconds like the police do.
Unless you get into some serious (spelled with two $$'es) security barriers, most security devices attached to frame, block and brick homes are pretty wimpy.
I believe I could get into one in ten seconds max. An experienced picklock could have it open in just a little longer, and walk in.
Steve
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"Steve B" wrote in message

I used to be in that business. Using one-way screws is not a great idea. If you put them in a tube, you have a bugger of a time getting them out. Putting them in a tube is a good way to keep someone from accessing them and backing them out. But some doors come with just screw tabs. It just depends if you have a welder, and can weld. It only takes a 110 Mig to do it. What works better, and is available, is to weld on a 1" x 1" cover on the tube, and limit access to only those determined thieves who want to use a grinder to get it off. Anyone who is really in a hurry will just hook a chain on it and pull it off in two seconds like the police do.
Unless you get into some serious (spelled with two $$'es) security barriers, most security devices attached to frame, block and brick homes are pretty wimpy.
I believe I could get into one in ten seconds max. An experienced picklock could have it open in just a little longer, and walk in. ________________________________
Anyone who got that far would still have to deal with the alarm system. Anyway, I'm hoping that the sophisticated thieves are checking out more rewarding targets.
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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

You are correct using the regular screws and replacing them one at a time. There are different head types for security screws. Since you need a flat blade to install them, I'm guessing they are the one way type with two bumps on them. Please verify that so I can order the correct screwdriver to take them out and steal the door. See item 7392A64 at the McMaster web site. There is a drill bit attachment also to get them out even faster. Item 5713A14
I hope you still feel secure! __________________________________
I'm just trying to protect from the low-life kick the door in, crawl in the open window burglar. Hopefully, security doors, deadbolts, and alarms will send him elsewhere.
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It's telling what sort of society we have evolved when honest citizens have to live with bars on their windows,alarms,and in gated communities. And criminals have more legal protections than the ODCs(ordinary decent citizens)trying to protect their property.
It's sickening.
Thank God and our Founders for the Second Amendment.
BTW,alarms are not very useful,as they false,and/or nobody else responds to them,and if you decided to respond,I suggest you be armed. Don't forget that it takes some time for the police to arrive,depending on how busy they are elsewhere and how close a unit may be to you. In natural disasters or severe weather,they may not come at all.
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Jim Yanik
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On 1/2/2011 3:21 AM, Robert H wrote:

Seems to me that if you are going to drill the holes that it doesn't matter if you use non one way screws first or not.
I'm no expert on one way screws, but I can tell you that I have a set (two actually) of used one way screws that I got from the local security door salesman that are in very good shape. Obviously not as one way as I would have thought.
Jeff

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"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
On 1/2/2011 3:21 AM, Robert H wrote:

I'm no expert on one way screws, but I can tell you that I have a set (two actually) of used one way screws that I got from the local security door salesman that are in very good shape. Obviously not as one way as I would have thought. __________________________________
So I'm finding out.
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2011 00:21:18 -0800, Robert H wrote:

You would drill smaller pilot holes and then screw in the screws by hand. If you use a power drill, your hand will probably slip and the bit will damage the door.
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wrote:

An impact driver is the only way to fly.
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wrote:

there's a magnetic bit holder with an outer sleeve that slides over the screw head,keeping the straight bit centered in the screw slot. I have one I found in the road while bicycling. It looked like an ordinary magnetic bit extension,but then I discovered the sliding outer sleeve.
I don't know who makes them.
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Not having security screws I filled the slots of regular screw with epoxy after they were tighten down the painted them with black paint. If I ever need to remove thm the epoxy can be cleaned out with out an undue amount of trouble. Otherwise they look like carriage bolts or rivets and people leave it along thinking its just too much trouble to break into. As far as security bolts go there is a tool for removing just about all of them that can be easily purchased by just about anyone.
Jimmie
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"JIMMIE" wrote in message wrote:

Not having security screws I filled the slots of regular screw with epoxy after they were tighten down the painted them with black paint. If I ever need to remove thm the epoxy can be cleaned out with out an undue amount of trouble. Otherwise they look like carriage bolts or rivets and people leave it along thinking its just too much trouble to break into. As far as security bolts go there is a tool for removing just about all of them that can be easily purchased by just about anyone. _________________________________
Thanks. I like that idea.
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By the way, what is the point of this on a screen door? Will it be locked from the inside too? What if there is a fire? Will the key be handy?
What prevents them from cutting the screen from top to bottom to go in and out? Screen door bars in the middle? They can't be ripped right out?

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"mm" wrote in message wrote:

By the way, what is the point of this on a screen door? Will it be locked from the inside too? What if there is a fire? Will the key be handy?
What prevents them from cutting the screen from top to bottom to go in and out? Screen door bars in the middle? They can't be ripped right out? __________________________________
This is the door: http://www.firstalert.com/home-security/doors-556986369/doors/50730X80
We are trying primarily to prevent crimes of opportunity, to make it more difficult. A neighbor recently had an entry door kicked in by a couple of kids on their way home from school, and we realized we needed to beef things up a bit.
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On 1/2/2011 4:23 PM, Robert H wrote:

Good quality steelclad door, long-throw deadbolt, with the steel plate between the jamb and rough opening, and shims and LONG screws in all the proper places. Their foot will break before the lock does. Most cheap/badly installed residential front doors, the striker barely catches, and the deadbolt barely makes it past the stop strip on the jamb. I've opened doors that were so loose no kicking was needed- tuck butt into jamb on hinge side, and press one foot against opposite side at doorknob level, and push.
--
aem sends...

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there's a magnetic bit holder with an outer sleeve that slides over the screw head,keeping the straight bit centered in the screw slot. I have one I found in the road while bicycling. It looked like an ordinary magnetic bit extension,but then I discovered the sliding outer sleeve.
I don't know who makes them.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
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ember.org:

Is it similar to this?
http://tkwebproduction.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/g/u/guide.jpg
Those are typically used to hold a screw by sliding the outer sleeve over the screw so that you can hold the drill at just about any angle without having to hold the screw.
Once pressure is put on the screw, the bit finds the head and the sleeve retracts as the screw enters the workpiece.
I guess it could be used help keep the bit centered over a screw while extracted it.
Perhaps the adaptor you've found is different? Lots of companies make them. As with most products, the knockoffs are pretty crappy. I've been pretty satisfied with the Dewalt brand over the years.
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