Recessed lights in kitchen centered on the stove

I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will be 12" beyond the counter top.
One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove while cooking, although the range hood has lights too.
I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast the light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person cooking and it's a major no no.
Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem? Is it better to move it to either side?
On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.
On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36" out.
Thanks,
MC
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*I agree with RBM. If you are standing at the counter and the light is coming from behind you your head and body will cast a shadow and block the light. I use the countertop edge as my starting point for the center of the lights. Sometimes I have to move out a little due to obstacles, but I have found that position is beneficial for throwing light into the overhead cabinets, onto the countertop and also onto the drawers and dishwasher.
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RBM wrote:

Angle of incidence = angle of reflection. If the light is directly over, you will only get glare if you are also directly over at which point you're blocking the light anyway.
Splitting the light to either side reduced the head blocking the light issue, however, when cooking 95% of the time you are looking from a foot or two back.
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Makes sense. I will pull it back to 24"-24" or so.
Thanks,
MC
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By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.
I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside part of the cone is silver.
I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.
I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down from below after the bulbs are inserted.
MC
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That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of the trim bends very easily

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RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?
Thanks,
MC
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Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.

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Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if this one is heavily discounted.
MC
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RBM, what is the real benefit for an airtight trim?
Is it more for retrofit application? I mean, the existing housing is non-airtight so this corrects it? In my case since I am putting up new housing, I could have gotten a H7ICAT and be done with that and still can us any trim I wanted...I think I probably messed up by getting this trim. Have to do some thinking.now that I got about 30 of these trims at a non-returnable non-refunable store closing discount.
MC
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The advantage is that warm air can't escape through the fixture, or cold air from above the fixture can't blow down through it, neither should be a concern for you. Here in NY, they are a requirement in an insulated ceiling. Believe me, I don't use them where I don't have to. I'd try to return them, and if not sell them on ebay
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*Or CraigsList
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*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a substitute made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7 size. However they are only available at electrical supply companies. Part #Halo ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT
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John:
I did not know that there is a contractor version of these. Is there a substantial difference between the contractor version and consumer version?
I just can't believe how expensive these trims are. Is there a similar thing for Juno? I am looking for trim 435B-WH that does not cost part of my legs LOL.
Thanks,
MC
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*I am not familiar with Juno and don't have one of their catalogs. If the dimensions are the same you could probably get a Halo trim to work.
The contractor trims recessed baffle are made of metal whereas the consumer are made of plastic. They are not exactly identical, but once they are in the ceiling Halo's own mother would not be able to tell the difference. :-)
I went to an Expo store near me today just see what they had. Everything was 40-60% off. The parking lot was full. Customers were buying overpriced light fixtures right off the ceiling. Even with the discount some things still seemed expensive. I saw some nice replacement cushions for my outdoor set. The sale price for a regular chair cushion was around $75.00. The chaise cushions were $89.00 originally $149.00. I don't think my chairs with cushions cost that much new.
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Given a choice between metal baffle or plastic baffle I prefer metal. If it's cheaper that's even better. I was doing some search on the net and a few websites said "Cooper Lighting P31WW" is a replacement for Halo 410W? Are they interchangeable? Seems tje P31WW is also priced relatively lower.
Thanks,
MC
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*I am not familiar with that particular trim, but Cooper owns the Halo brand so it will probably work.
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Why waste your time and money on lighting you don't need? A range hood will more than adequately illuminate the stove, according to the chef at our house. Of course, if you're competing with the neighbors for the absolute maximum can lights in a dwelling, then go for it, but don't bother to wire them to the power source. Consider that one day soon LED panels will be all the rage and can lights will join the ugly overpriced granite counter tops in the landfills. Such is the price of being hip...
Joe
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