Beats me. They probably don't know either. You can generate plenty of heat at 500 rpm. Like I said, if I ever get a screw or nail in a tire, I'll just get a plug kit. Or take it to a nearby Just Tires. Done that too. If I can't find a puncture, I assume it's a rim leak. But one time they found a nail I had missed.
Tires are most important parts of vehicle, each maintaining firm contact with surface supporting the vehicle. Each contact area is mere sq. inches. For me, I don't want to play with damaged tire(s). I don't want to put myself and family for possible danger due to so called repaired tire. My driving is mostly freeway driving doing
70 mph or so. It all takes is just one accident. Even new tires can cause an accident. I don't want to learn a lesson paying my life.In Germany cops can impound your car if you are driving with worn tire(s). It's pretty scary driving on Autobahn first time.
Danny D. tire repair Guru!!! Good luck driving your Bimmer on patched tire(s).
1) Danny is well known for over thinking things. 2) Many paint thinners are "mineral spirits". Not sure if that's same thing.
They are all different - can;t use one in place of the other, and foolish to try something not made for the job.
Neaver heard of RTV Silicone?? R for ROOM, T for TEMPERATURE, V for VULCANIZING
Why would you? It's only YOUR LIFE riding on that tire, and the lives of everybody you may hit if the tire blows on the road. DO NOT screw around with tire , brake, or steering repairs. A criminal negligence charge will stay with you for a lifetime even if you survive.
That "most critical" fluid has only become anything resembling common in the last decade or so. It was virtually unheard of when I was working as a mechanic and fixing tires - and I'd venture to guess better than 90% of tire repair shops still don't use it - barticularly with a "mushroom" patch.
And that is what the "scraping" is for - to expose raw clean surface for gluing..
The old trick of applying glue, lighting it with a match, then scraping off the remains before applying more glue and the patch did the same thing.
Danny D. posted for all of us...
Good Fast Cheap Pick two You seem to want premium stuff at bankruptcy prices.
Danny D. posted for all of us...
IDK, ask the suspension.
You are talking "different horses for different courses" And in the Harly croud you have the "Rubbies" and the "Grubbies"
The "Rubbies" are "Rich Urban Bikers" - the same demographic as most BMW riders - although they tend more towards the "Yuppie" and/or the "Metrosexual" The Harley Rubbies tend to be older and ride "cruisers" while the BMW drivers tend to be younger and ride "baggers" Wingers tend to be Rubbies (either bagger or cruiser)who don;t like marking their territory and constantly working on their bikes.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
Your shop didn't say DISCOUNT on it.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
See his reply to this post. He has added a new word: FREE
Danny D. posted for all of us...
Places around me beat tire rack prices any day of the week. I inquired about their installation places. 4 of 4 were more expensive than the regular dealers, just for fitting. The fourth I knew and had the reputation of crappy work, which I observed on several occasions. No thanks.
I would use what the patch company recommends. Tech's "Rub=O-Matic" rubber cleaner has no MEK in it. it is basically a light naptha (pure petroleum product)
Rema uses a water based pummice product to buff the rubber liner for repair. Their flamable pre-buff is almost pure N-Heptane. Their non flamable pre-buff is Triclorethelene
The "glue" is also specific to the patch product being used. -I would not mix one company's glue with another companies specialized patch products.
Like I said before "don't screw around with tire repairs" "It's only YOUR LIFE at stake." Don't prove yourself stupid.
It aint MEK., and yes, low speed is required because if you burn the rubber the tire is FUBAR. Best thing for "grinding" the liner is a prep disk on a low speed die grinder or air drill.. Use a PROPER PREBUFF cleaner, or a pure hydrocarbon solvent like napyha , white gas, or even TRicor. (all components of the major tire repair companies' pre-buff cleaners).
In a pinch, use tire patch glue ans scrape it off with a razor blade.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
Oh, more memories. Monkey Grip - I can still visualize the can and lighting the glue....
Let's take this tread to re-vulcanized condoms. Maybe more posts.
It is a butyl rubber sealer containing hydro treated heavy parafinic petroleum distilates, carbon black, di(benzothiazol-2-yl) disulphide, and zinc oxide along with butyl rubber resin.
It is made for the job, and you would be far better off not using anything (the way it has been done for many years by many tire repair professionals) than using something untied and unproven in it's place. Like I said before: "Dont screw with tire repairs" "It's only your life riding on that repair"
Either do it right, or get it done. Criminal negligence charges stay with you for life if you happen to survive and someone else doesn't
Ashton Crusher posted for all of us...
So I guess the research the tire co's means nothing to you.
+100 If he won't listen to me, mabee he'll listen to someone else. He asks for advice - then won't take it. That sounds a bit like an idiot to me - sorry but I have to call a spade a spade.
Mineral spirits and MEK are totally different materials. Mineral spirits is closer to the right product but can have all kinds of fraction in it that could inhibit proper vilcanization.. White gas (coleman camp gas) is about as close to the "real thing" as he is going to find at a big box store like Home Despot. - much better to just get the right stuff
+1 Very good advice, hope it's heeded.
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