Doing laundry today i somehow washed and dried a harbor freight free flashlight, one of those free ones.,
i found it working well putting out a nice brite light in the dryer,
i had done many loads today, so i doubt it was on the entire time. proably got turned on tumbling in the dryer,
this flashlight was one of thoe alunimum tube ones.
i ws amazed it survived the laundry
Would be more amusing if it had been in the *washer* -- a front loader
so you could watch the light as it bounced around in the wash! :>
Not much that can break, there. LED's don't care about the sorts
of temperatures you'd find in a dryer -- nor the mechanical abuse.
Switch is actually recessed *in* the back of the flashlight so it's
not subject to much abuse (though the rubber cover might age quicker).
Biggest concern would be the batteries -- leaking prematurely, etc.
[Or, any enamel paint coating on the inside of the dryer drum -- if
you've that sort of dryer -- getting chipped from the contact with the
metal flashlight case]
I do two things to those short lights:
1) Grease the tail cap threads.
2) Put the battery pack in backwards
when the unit isn't going to be used
for a while.
3) Get a lot of them and give em away
4) Write about it on Usenet.
On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 at 9:17:25 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:
Some of their stuff is fine, works great and is a great deal.
Like ratchet extensions or a breaker bar.
Some other stuff is cheap junk. Example of that is a set of
snap ring pliers I bought. Instead of hardened steel, the tips
were made of metal so soft, they just bent trying to open the
first snap ring. Bought one of their cheap VOMs. It worked fine
for about a year, then started reading 150V, instead of 120V.
I got one of those VOM's and it just died after about 4 uses. I have a
quality VOM that still works fine after about 40 years. I just bought
this cheap VOM for auto use, because I hate getting my quality VOM
covered with grease and dirt outdoors. I have since bought a $15 VOM at
Walmart and it's been working fine for 2 or 3 years now.
The ONLY tool I bought at HF that has not yet broken is a trailer ball
wrench. It fits both size ball nuts. Basically a big box wrench. Aside
from that, nothing has been worth buying from them. I wont even go into
their stores anymore.
I got one of hte 'free' VOMs to see how well it would work. Only had it a
couple of months. I did compair it to my Fluke and it seems to be good
enough for general work. It will be interisting to see how long it lasts.
It does have one adjustment in it so the first person may need to adjust it.
I have ordered a lot of inexpensive electronic stuff direct from China off
ebay. Surprises me how well it works for the price.
Only other thing I have from them so far is an electric chain saw sharpener.
Kind of chincey plastic, but did seem to work on the 2 chains I have
sharpened. If I was into really using the saws, probably would get one of
the $ 100 name brand ones, but I don't saw much wood.
You've obviously never encountered any counterfeit components: blob of
black plastic with leads coming out of it -- but no die inside! :>
I use a cylindrical file and a clip on guide. Takes probably 5 minutes
to "kiss" each tooth (cutter and raker). Biggest time sink is thoroughly
cleaning the chain/bar beforehand. Biggest *risk* is taking the rakers
down to far... :<
ObHint: there's a point in the chain that is noticeably different
from all other links. If you start there, you can easily tell when you've
gone full circle -- without having to count teeth!
I have not gotten any components direct from China. Just a few already built
things for about $ 2 to $ 20.
For some reason I don't seem to be able to sharpen the chain saw very good
with the round file and guide. I bring it in and put it in a vise, sharpen
one side and turn it around to do the opposite tooth.. The $ 30 HF
sharpener does a much beter job for me and the saw cuts a lot beter. I
guess that if I sharpened very many chaines I could get beter at it. Sort
of like the drill bits. I use drill doctor for them. Come to think of it,
the electric sharpener was not much more than the files and guides.
I bring the file/guide out into the yard with me when using a saw.
Thus, I am willing/prepared to sharpen the chain as soon as it
starts feeling "unproductive" (working with a dull chain increases
chance of doing something you may regret!)
Set the saw between my legs ("off") and do all the "left facing"
teeth, manually advancing the chain between each until I've made the full
circuit. Then, switch to the right teeth and repeat the exercise.
Have to remember that the file wears over time, too. So, remove guide and
"roll" the file a quarter turn, or so. Replace file periodically.
(they're inexpensive and save you money/time in the end)
I am leary of electric things that claim to sharpen; doing so is
done by removing metal... too easy to get carried away and end up with
"nothing" (I've watched a friend's chef knife grow visibly smaller
over the years as he's constantly "sharpening" it -- with a motorized
sharpener! :< )
With the file and guide, I can "kiss" the teeth before they need
"serious attention" and, hopefully, keep the chain sharper and
more productive -- as well as minimizing the risk of getting too
aggressive with a sharpener.
Bottom line is to find a tool/approach with which you're comfortable.
A neighbor doesn't have the discipline to keep his saw sharp. From
time to time, I'll sharpen it for him. Otherwise, he just replaces
it when it gets too "dull" <frown>
Also left-handed drill bits, set of 4. Much cheaper than the other
brand and good enough to drill out specialty screws. Using left-hand
means the screw is likely to unscrew before you drill all the way
through, so you get the shaft and not just the head.
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