I bought the extended warranty for the reason I gave that AWD Subaru
requires all 4 tires be equal. The dealer also gave free lifetime rotation.
I'm going to trade it in a a couple of months and break free of the
service/dealer as every time I take it in for an oil change and free
rotation he looks for all kinds of things to do.
What does 'equal' mean?
All tires should be "equal" with respect to size, brand, & tread pattern.
It's just plain ghetto to have different tires on the same axle even.
You shouldn't even have appreciably different wear on them.
So, I don't know what you've been drinking that makes Subaru
any different than any other vehicle.
Those Subaru Marketing teams have you snowed I think.
I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires
"matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.
I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any
other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.
What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway?
All decent cars have stability control (and have had them
for a decade or more).
Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and,
all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.
So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing
team wants you to "think" they're "special").
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:29:34 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
AWD has 3 differentials. Different diameter tires cause the
differentials to "work" all the time. If they have limited slip or
traction control, the different sized wheels turn at different speeds
and confuse the heck out of everything.
Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
tell you you need to have all tires matching.
But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
and pay your repair bills.
You seem to have everything wrong, but I don't know where you get
your ideas from.
I was never talking about putting the wrong *size* on the car or even
different sizes on the same axle, or even on different axles.
If you inferred that, I never said (nor implied it).
On 12/8/2015 6:21 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Historically I've been bad about rotating tires but have done OK with
the last couple of cars. It does pay to have them wear evenly though
and now that I have AWD I'll be more vigilant.
When the original tires go I'll probably get Nokian WRG3 again. I rally
liked them on my last car.
My first car was a '53 Mercury. Only bought one used or re-cap tire at
a time as needed.
With directional tires you just switch front to back - not a full
rotate (and I've never done/liked full rotation on radial tires (or
even the old bias belted tires)
I've never replaced tires one at a time - and untill the Ranger I'd
never installed used tires. The alloy rims I bought for it (torque
thrust style Eagle Alloys) came with a decent set of Coopers that I
drove for a year, and I got a set of Hak R2 SUVs with one season of
use for a good price so I put them on for this winter. Should last me
for another 4 or 5 winters.
Again you seem to have everything wrong?
Who said *anything* about different brand tires of any size?
Are you just making this stuff up?
You're the *only* one talking about different brand tires on the
same vehicle. Nobody else would even *think* of doing that, except
as a ghetto maneuver.
On Wed, 9 Dec 2015 04:09:33 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
I've seen all 3 many tomes - and even 2 tires with the same name
and size can be different. There are, for instance, at least 2 totally
different tires called Tiger PawTouring tires, available in the same
size range - with totally different tread and totally different
carcass - and different speed ratings.
Not a good idea to have one on one side and the other on the other
side, or one on the front and one on the back of any AWD or dynamic
traction control or whatever vehicle.
Because you don't know the anatomy of Subaru system yet.
Most likely causing damage.
When differential gets busted.
One hint Subaru system does not have power torque. Ever driven xDrive?
That is BMW system.
Try it once and experience power torque. Jeeps too. Ever do off-roading?
Some times ignorance is even dangerous.
1. Removing and replacing the tire on the rim ourself, and,
2. Patching a hole in the tire, and,
3. Perhaps dealing with balance issues thereafter.
Choosing the patch seems to be *easy* now that I know there is only
one kind of patch to choose.
BTW, I called Midas (whom I hate), Goodyear, and Wheel Works.
Midas and Goodyear only patch or plug but not both.
Wheel Works does a patch/plug, and they do it for free!
No more calls for me.
That's too easy to ignore.
I will let you know what happens (I accidentally left the key in
the ignition when I needed to straighten the wheels to jack up the
car so I'm charging my battery as we speak).
This I thought was a joke, but, I called Wheel Works, and guess what!
If I bring in the tire, they will patch it with the plug/patch, for free!
Yep. For free!
It doesn't matter that Tire Rack sold me the tires and that I installed
1. I can remove the tire easily.
2. I bring it to Wheel Works
3. They patch it correctly, for free.
I asked them over and over again "are you sure it's free?", and they
said yes. I told them they're crazy; but I like their kind of crazy.
I'll let you know what happens.
I carry Dynaplug kits on my bikes with tubeless tires:
I've also used the standard string type with good results. The
politically correct thing to do is to immediately repair the tire or
preferably, if your selling bike tires, buy a new one. I patched a
almost brand new rear tire, and ran it close to 8000 miles before the
tread was gone. The string plug did leak slowly towards the end but when
the tire was removed the inside loop was well sealed and wasn't going to
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