Nasty Bolt

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I am trying to change the blades on my lawnmower. I have one of the two bolts loosened but the other will not budge. I have tried WD 40 and silicone spray. I have used a ratchet set, a power crip pliers, nothing seems to work, any tricks to remove this nasty thing. Thanks in advance.
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wizof103 wrote:

Buy, rent or borrow an impact wrench and the right sized impact wrench socket.
Preferably an air driven model, the smaller electric ones tend to either be wimpy or they start smoking at too young an age.
Jeff
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wizof103 wrote:

It's a reverse thread.
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Not so.

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Pull the spark plug wire and prevent accidental starting.
Put a "cheater bar" on the ratchet handle or an adjustable wrench on the nut. -- Oren
"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."
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Oren wrote:

Also try a real penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster. WD-40 is not that great as a penetrating oil, claims printed on the can to the contrary.
nate
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replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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wrote:

You will probably need to have someone hold the socket on the bolt when you use the cheater bar (a piece of pipe) - have them use a foot. Also, strike the bolt a strong blow or two with a hammer and then apply a better penetrating oil than WD-anything, allow to soak for 30 minutes and then strike again and re-apply. Don't go savage on the blow to the bolt and you might want to place a piece of steel over the bolt head to use as a protector to the bolt. You don't want to bugger up the edges of the bolt.
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wrote:

If the bolt head isnt buggered up already, you might want to buy a 6 point socket if you dont already have one., Maybe one designed for an impact wrench. Make sure you jam the blade up good and tight with a 2x4 to keep it from turning while you pull your back out tugging on the wrench.
The last time I had the dealer change the blades on my tractor, I needed a cheater bar about 4 ft long to loosen the screws. Never again.
I went to change the oil on my car once and never could get the drainpan bolt out. I had to take it to the dealer for them to remove it. Thats when I swore off Jiffy lube too.
-dickm
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C & E wrote:
get some PB Blaster. comes in a spray can. will loosen anything rusted up.
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Sometimes an impact wrench will chatter along to no avail, and a breaker bar will just round the nut. If this happens, and you have the space to work it, use a disc grinder. By the time you're halfway through the nut, it will probably spin off on its own.
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Heat the fastener til it's just starting to glow red, then use the impact driver. If you've oxy-acetylene, if all else fails, just burn it off. Not likely, in my experience. At worst, a few cycles of heat/impact.
Need I mention that you should drain the tank, and keep extinguisher(s) handy?
J
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If the blades rotate in opposite directions one of them will use a left hand thread bolt.
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plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
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Hit with a hammer heat apply penetrating oil \\ I would suggest replacing bolt along with sharpening

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Nut breaker and replace the thing.
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On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 20:04:06 -0700, "Eigenvector"

Just exactly how do you use a nut breaker on a bolt?
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Hold it upside down, d'uh.
(Just kidding....)
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Heat may work. OA torch, or small propane torch. Get a Vise Grip on there first, set really tight. Remove Vise Grip, and heat until you think it will let loose. Put Vise Grip on and say a little prayer.
Other than that, if it is configured right, you could grind the bolt head off flush, and have enough of the shaft sticking out once you pull the blade off. But you'd want to make damn sure first that you're going to have enough bolt shaft left to stick out and get ahold of with a Vise Grip or similar tool.
Steve
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Heat will make the bolt expand and just get tighter.

If he can't get the bolt off using the head, why should he be able to get it off with vise grips on the shaft?
When I have had this problem I hit a breaker bar with a sledge hammer. It worked, but may have taken a toll. The part the bolt went into fractured one day while I was mowing the lawn. Didn't actually do any harm, but I didn't dare use it after that and couldn't justify the price of a replacement part on a 14 year old mower.
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Right. Heat will expand the bolt. When it's cherry red, pour cold water on the bolt. It will contract rapidly and you'll be able to remove it with very little pressure then.
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Conment to the above: The reason heat works is because the thermal expansion distupts the bonds if corrosion between the mating threads.

very
You do not need to quench the heated bolt with water, and you probably do not need to heat the bolt to a cherry red. You are not heat treating here all you are doing is disrupting the corrosive bonds.
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