I am trying to change the blades on my lawnmower. I have one of the
two bolts loosened but the other will not budge. I have tried WD 40
and silicone spray. I have used a ratchet set, a power crip pliers,
nothing seems to work, any tricks to remove this nasty thing. Thanks
Buy, rent or borrow an impact wrench and the right sized impact wrench
Preferably an air driven model, the smaller electric ones tend to either
be wimpy or they start smoking at too young an age.
Pull the spark plug wire and prevent accidental starting.
Put a "cheater bar" on the ratchet handle or an adjustable wrench on
"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who
really loves it."
You will probably need to have someone hold the socket on the bolt when you
use the cheater bar (a piece of pipe) - have them use a foot. Also, strike
the bolt a strong blow or two with a hammer and then apply a better
penetrating oil than WD-anything, allow to soak for 30 minutes and then
strike again and re-apply. Don't go savage on the blow to the bolt and you
might want to place a piece of steel over the bolt head to use as a
protector to the bolt. You don't want to bugger up the edges of the bolt.
If the bolt head isnt buggered up already, you might want to buy a 6
point socket if you dont already have one., Maybe one designed for an
impact wrench. Make sure you jam the blade up good and tight with a
2x4 to keep it from turning while you pull your back out tugging on
The last time I had the dealer change the blades on my tractor, I
needed a cheater bar about 4 ft long to loosen the screws. Never
I went to change the oil on my car once and never could get the
drainpan bolt out. I had to take it to the dealer for them to remove
it. Thats when I swore off Jiffy lube too.
Sometimes an impact wrench will chatter along to no avail, and a
breaker bar will just round the nut. If this happens, and you have the
space to work it, use a disc grinder. By the time you're halfway
through the nut, it will probably spin off on its own.
Heat the fastener til it's just starting to glow red, then use the
driver. If you've oxy-acetylene, if all else fails, just burn it off.
likely, in my experience. At worst, a few cycles of heat/impact.
Need I mention that you should drain the tank, and keep
Heat may work. OA torch, or small propane torch. Get a Vise Grip on there
first, set really tight. Remove Vise Grip, and heat until you think it will
let loose. Put Vise Grip on and say a little prayer.
Other than that, if it is configured right, you could grind the bolt head
off flush, and have enough of the shaft sticking out once you pull the blade
off. But you'd want to make damn sure first that you're going to have
enough bolt shaft left to stick out and get ahold of with a Vise Grip or
Heat will make the bolt expand and just get tighter.
If he can't get the bolt off using the head, why should he be able to get it
off with vise grips on the shaft?
When I have had this problem I hit a breaker bar with a sledge hammer. It
worked, but may have taken a toll. The part the bolt went into fractured
one day while I was mowing the lawn. Didn't actually do any harm, but I
didn't dare use it after that and couldn't justify the price of a
replacement part on a 14 year old mower.
Conment to the above: The reason heat works is because the thermal
expansion distupts the bonds if corrosion between the mating threads.
You do not need to quench the heated bolt with water, and you probably do
not need to heat the bolt to a cherry red. You are not heat treating here
all you are doing is disrupting the corrosive bonds.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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