I have a heavy oak bathroom cabinet that I'm about to hang over the
toilet. However, there is only one stud and it's not in the center,
it's about 1/4 length going left to right. Thus, the left half of
cabinet is supported, but not the right. I'll have a top screw and
botton screw on the to stud, but what's the best thing to do for the
right side without stud.
I'm renting, so patching up the wall afterwards is important to me.
The smaller the hole the better.
of molly anchors on the non-stud side will probably be plenty, as long
as the screws into the stud are big enough and deep enough. (Use at
least 2.5 inch, like kitchen cabinets are mounted with.) You just need
to keep it from flopping around on the wall. Mollys are easy to dispose
of when moving out- remove screw, and with a big bit or reamer, drill
through face ring and pry off, and just drop the back part in the wall.
The hole will be just as easy to patch as the one into the stud. Even if
the back is pressboard, as long as there are some sort of solid wood
rails across the back of the cabinet, you can mount through those.
Fender washers inside the cabinet help a bunch to resist screws pulling
through cheap wood.
NOTE WELL- THE VENT STACK OFTEN RUNS BEHIND TOILET! And not always on
the centerline of the toilet. When you are drilling the holes, use a
very gentle touch, and don't drive the drill in past the drywall if you
can help it. If you hit air, then something solid, STOP, and move over a
couple of inches.
Get at least two screws into the stud and at least two gypsum-board
anchors, molly bolts. You may need to fasten a 3/4" (or 1/2") thick
ply board (slightly smaller size than the cabinet back) to the wall
first then you have a base that can be screwed in anywhere.
Another alternative -- use a ledger, which you presumably can secure at each
corner of the back wall, plus the one stud you've located. Rest the cabinet
on the ledger and then keep it from falling by adding a screw into the one
stud you've located. Come moving time, remove the securing screw and the
cabinet and take out the ledger, which will probably be held in place by
three screws (2 corners + one stud). Patch the 4 screw holes with some
lightweight spackle and touch up if necessary.
A ledger can be made from a 1 x 4 piece of good hardwood, which you can
stain a compatible color, or use a piece of softwood and paint it the same
color as the wall to hide its appearance.
One afterthought -- if you used a studfinder to locate the one stud. make
sure that you've actually located the stud, and not the vent stack behind
the wallboard --
A French cleat would be one way:
I use 4' lengths of an aluminum extrusion - essentially a Z clip but
longer - that is much thinner than a wood French cleat. One section
gets screwed into the back of the cabinet, and the other into the
wall. It makes hanging and leveling cabinets a snap.
re: A French cleat would be one way:
These types of answers are really not helpful and I'd appreciate it if
you would keep them to yourself next time.
I googled the QuickScribe mentioned at the woodweb site and watched
the videos. Pretty neat tool. Now I gotta go buy an offset laminate
trimmer so I can buy a QuickScribe. Thanks a lot! ;-)
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